Measuring Draw Weight w/ Draw Board

[f16woody]

I’ve been trying to use my LCA draw board and LCA scale to measure my draw weight when checking draw length and timing. Keep coming up 5-7 pounds lighter than when I draw by hand. Any advice?

 

[Beendare]

I will make a guess....

It might be because you are getting a slow steady pull with the draw board...vs a sharper pull by hand.

What does it matter?

IMO, a draw board is all about getting cam timing dialed...once you have that, you are golden.

 

[Billy Goat]

I haven't had the best experiences with the LCA electronic scale, or really any electronic scale. It varies a good bit based on how fast or slow you pull it back, and sometimes isn't even accurate with a hanging weight, they are upto what, scale #4?


I mostly use spring scales. I have a compact spring scale that I can use on my drawboard that I can check peak and holding with. It's more critical for me to know the holding accurately than the peak, and a hanging spring scale can be sketchy coming off of full draw.

 

[f16woody]

Agree that it really doesn't matter...other that liking to tinker and wondering why it would be different. Would rather save my old man shoulders for drawing for an actual shot as well...!
Might try to rotate the setup 90 degrees and pull vertically vs. horizontally and see how it works.

 

[f16woody]

I haven't had the best experiences with the LCA electronic scale, or really any electronic scale. It varies a good bit based on how fast or slow you pull it back, and sometimes isn't even accurate with a hanging weight, they are upto what, scale #4?


I mostly use spring scales. I have a compact spring scale that I can use on my drawboard that I can check peak and holding with. It's more critical for me to know the holding accurately than the peak, and a hanging spring scale can be sketchy coming off of full draw.

Thanks Billy Goat! Yeah, definitely seeing some inaccuracies with the hanging 2.0 and hand (HS4) versions. I use the draw weight and chrono speed as a starting point to build new arrow setups using the Archers Advantage shaft selector tool...so I'm guessing the more accurate I am the better the results will be.

 

[Billy Goat]

Thanks Billy Goat! Yeah, definitely seeing some inaccuracies with the hanging 2.0 and hand (HS4) versions. I use the draw weight and chrono speed as a starting point to build new arrow setups using the Archers Advantage shaft selector tool...so I'm guessing the more accurate I am the better the results will be.

I find with hunting shafts you really want to at least be into the yellow on the stiff side with AA, just FYI.

I wouldn't be too worried about being that accurate with it, just make sure you stay on the stiff side of it.

 

[f16woody]

I find with hunting shafts you really want to at least be into the yellow on the stiff side with AA, just FYI.

I wouldn't be too worried about being that accurate with it, just make sure you stay on the stiff side of it.

Great archery...and life...advice!!

 

[Beendare]

I find with hunting shafts you really want to at least be into the yellow on the stiff side with AA, just FYI.

I wouldn't be too worried about being that accurate with it, just make sure you stay on the stiff side of it.

Exactly. Stiffer makes for a better hunt arrow in a modern compound; Tunes with BH's and is more durable.

Some guys get themself in trouble cutting it too close and end up under spined....the bow shoots fine with FP's but then cannot get their bow to tune with BH's.

FWIW, Those software programs are just data inputted from the MNFR. arrow charts- some are old......and some had guys shooting the lightest spined shaft that would work in your bow. The program is only as good as the Data input.

Did the software programs thoroughly tested spine of these individual arrows through BH tuning to come up with their recommendations? I doubt it. I've shot over spined hunting arrows for decades- they tune great.