Mathews 2026 Bows

[alexnelon]

No, they aren't.

They are there to hold the bow stable through the shot.

Lots of people try to use them to steady the bow, its not what they are actually supposed to be used for, and is usually actually compounding problems people have because they are using them to try to fix a problem.


A short stabilizer isn't doing anything outside of adding mass anyways.

Just to be fully clear here.

You're saying that a bow with no bars on it will hold the same, torque the same, point the same, and have identical distance, speed, and shape of pin float as a bow with full target bars, and stabilizers do nothing but keep the bow from tipping over between when the shot breaks and the nock leaves the string?

 

[TheCougar]

@alexnelon , I recommend you go back and read @Billy Goat actual words. You inferred or straight up made up a bunch of stuff he never even remotely said.

 

[Billy Goat]

Just to be fully clear here.

You're saying that a bow with no bars on it will hold the same, torque the same, point the same, and have identical distance, speed, and shape of pin float as a bow with full target bars, and stabilizers do nothing but keep the bow from tipping over between when the shot breaks and the nock leaves the string?

What I'm saying is the real purpose of stabilizers is to hold the bow as close as possible to where it was when the string looses tension on it from behind and is racing towards the brace.

People try to use them to steady their hold and they are doing it backwards.

With proper form the area of the float doesn't change with adding mass to the bow, it will slow when you get a lot of mass, and it will open up if you get too much weight because the shooter is struggling to hold it, doesn't have proper shoulder and elbow alignment.


Everyone should be starting with a bow without stabilizers on it, can put some weight on the riser if it makes you more comfortable. Dial in the DL to where the float is as small as possible, then slowly add in stabilizers with weights on the end.

Stabilizers will slow the torque if the archers grip is applying any, but if you are properly holding the bow, it shouldn't torque. But again, people will throw stuff on the bow to "fix" their issues rather than correcting them.


I can pull the bars off my target bow, I need to adjust the sights a little usually as I'll shoot a little high, but shoot very similar, only difference being my bad shots land a little further off as the bow moves further off the X. Float doesn't open up, it just moves faster with less mass.


Sometimes you can add a little bias with a back bar to hold against, you are actually inducing torque at the shot when you do that, but there can be reasons to do it with a target bow. Usually its a bad idea with a hunting bow you are shooting broadheads out of.

More clear what I'm saying?


Adding stabilizers to fix your hold is not what you should be doing, that's what I'm saying but trying to add some explanation behind the why.

 

[dreamingWest]

Adding stabilizers to fix your hold is not what you should be doing, that's what I'm saying but trying to add some explanation behind the why.

I'm listening. Do you think having a perfectly level bubble from your natural draw and hold should be dictated by the grip and only the grip? Or do you think adjusting with small weights on the riser is acceptable.

I understand what you are saying regarding the stabilizer being there for release to draw stop. This is good stuff, it's been awhile since I thought in depth about bow fit and stability.

 

[tipsntails7]

What I'm saying is the real purpose of stabilizers is to hold the bow as close as possible to where it was when the string looses tension on it from behind and is racing towards the brace.

People try to use them to steady their hold and they are doing it backwards.

With proper form the area of the float doesn't change with adding mass to the bow, it will slow when you get a lot of mass, and it will open up if you get too much weight because the shooter is struggling to hold it, doesn't have proper shoulder and elbow alignment.


Everyone should be starting with a bow without stabilizers on it, can put some weight on the riser if it makes you more comfortable. Dial in the DL to where the float is as small as possible, then slowly add in stabilizers with weights on the end.

Stabilizers will slow the torque if the archers grip is applying any, but if you are properly holding the bow, it shouldn't torque. But again, people will throw stuff on the bow to "fix" their issues rather than correcting them.


I can pull the bars off my target bow, I need to adjust the sights a little usually as I'll shoot a little high, but shoot very similar, only difference being my bad shots land a little further off as the bow moves further off the X. Float doesn't open up, it just moves faster with less mass.


Sometimes you can add a little bias with a back bar to hold against, you are actually inducing torque at the shot when you do that, but there can be reasons to do it with a target bow. Usually its a bad idea with a hunting bow you are shooting broadheads out of.

More clear what I'm saying?


Adding stabilizers to fix your hold is not what you should be doing, that's what I'm saying but trying to add some explanation behind the why.

This is way too much of an over simplification to be honest, and is not true for all archery disciplines or instances, but I generally agree with your points.

Can stabilizers help steady pin floats, yes they can, and did for decades when bows were not balanced correctly bare. you can call it tightening, steadying, whatever you want, but they were used to make shooting bows easier by making it easier to hold on target by balancing and stabilizing the bow.

Modern day parallel limb bows? I've still felt some that were balanced like shit, but obviously much better than when Jennings was pumping out 45 ata monsters.

The biggest issue is people cannot tailor a bows stab set to their body, hold and bow as easily anymore because it costs 800 dollars in stabilizers to find out you barely need any weight at all, or the lengths you need.

Sure, form, draw length, back wall especially, all make a large difference, and you should 100% start there but when min maxing your effect stabs can make a difference.

I also think backbars are a garbage fad thats come over from target archery and in general do much more harm then good for the people I've seen shoot with them, not because they dont work, but because 99% of the time they are not set up properly. you start getting people off flat ground and the offset back bar can do a number on their form all together.

 

[Billy Goat]

I got a lot going on right now @dreamingWest and @tipsntails7

I think I'll start another post, hopefully this evening that we can discuss things in, instead of side tracking this thread anymore.

Be hopefully can be useful to others who might not be interested in mathews discussion.

 

[aMurderOfCrows]

It stems from frustration that the companies are just milking their fan base. The sandbagging annoys people.

Mathews is pretty open about having their product roadmap done 5+ years out. They already have every little tweak for the next 5 models planned out. Designs, patents, production schedules, everything is done for the next several years.

They just won't put them all on one new bow because they want to release a "new" bow every year.

Seems like a good business plan. Nobody HAS to buy one. There shouldn’t be any frustration. Buying a new bow is supposed to be enjoyable.

 

[aMurderOfCrows]

Because every bow company, not just Mathews makes it so easy. It also shows how effective marketing/advertising is along with the old saying it is easy to fool people, it is almost impossible to convince people they have been fooled. With that said if it makes you happy to buy a new bow go for it! Just understand the biggest advantage you are gaining is that warm fuzzy feeling you get knowing you have a new bow.

Why is it people like you think everyone is being fooled? Too stupid to resist the dark arts of marketing?

Maybe people just like buying bows. Maybe it’s that simple. Maybe NOBODY is getting fooled or ripped off. Maybe people really do realize this model isn’t going to be light years ahead of the last model but buy it because they simply want to.

I waste way too much money on archery and to some extent camping gear. Sometimes there are actual improvements. Mostly it’s just because I like what I see. These are my hobbies and there are worse things to do with expendable income.

 

[Billy Goat]

These are my hobbies and there are worse things to do with expendable income.

Its almost cheaper than lady's of the night and white powder...

 

[billysmals]

I went in to the shop today..

I went in to check out the new Z mod, mostly. I don't shoot mathews, but I am considering a short ATA bow. I prefer smooth drawing bows. I was looking for something light weight and was looking at a discounted 29.5 Lift X. I don't care for the ARC as I don't think it's a huge improvement from the 29.5, for me anyway.

The Z mod and bow I shot was set at 70lbs, 29in on the ARC 34. I couldn't totally get a feel for it as a true comparison because I'm a 27.5 draw length, so the ARC peaked at a weird spot for me. It does for sure smooth out the back end compared to the standard mod. I always felt the mathews standard mod had a little hump/pronounced dump into the valley which was also short and twitchy. The Z mod removes this feeling on the back. It still feels mostly the same on the front though. The stack is still early and stiff, but it's worth the look for those of you wanting to take a little hump out of the back and make it less jumpy.

I did also shoot the RX10, because several shop guys said it was a good drawing bow. The RX10 felt better as it stacked less aggressively (just a little), and better at the transition to the valley which didn't feel twitchy and dump hard either compared to a mathews standard mod.
The RX10 felt pretty good, I can see the draw to Hoyt. I'm sure the Ultra would be even better. $2k is a lot for the bow tho. It's worth a strong look with that new tuning feature if you have the cash.

The kodiak brown on the ARC is a nice brown/bronze. I like it better than the Earth color.

FWIW I shoot a Darton now, a 35ST2 from last year. I'm really used to this bow, so I'm biased, but the 35ST2 (and the Tri-tech from this year I'm assuming cuz it's the same cam) is butter to draw. If they had the Z mod in my draw length, it would have been a good comparison on the ARC 34 it was set up on.

 

[Pramo]

I have the z mods arriving next week. I’m a 30 inch draw and will post some speed numbers comparing on my lift 33 and bought the 65 and 70 pound mods

Love everything about the Lift except start of the draw it tends to hurt my bow arm elbow, could care less about a small valley i often use 80% mods and have no issues with the rollover

 

[MT257]

I have the z mods arriving next week. I’m a 30 inch draw and will post some speed numbers comparing on my lift 33 and bought the 65 and 70 pound mods

Love everything about the Lift except start of the draw it tends to hurt my bow arm elbow, could care less about a small valley i often use 80% mods and have no issues with the rollover

I was pretty excited to see the smooth draw mods too. Unfortunately I see they are only made in 85% let. Gotta have 80% here.

 

[sndmn11]

I was filling out an order for an Arc34, and then saw the email for Hoyt's tuning system. I am curious what do you guys are that think the lift(x) was a bad draw? The one I had last year was a good bow.

 

[MT257]

I was filling out an order for an Arc34, and then saw the email for Hoyt's tuning system. I am curious what do you guys are that think the lift(x) was a bad draw? The one I had last year was a good bow.

I have nothing bad to say about my lift and lift x. I was more curious to see if the smooth mod would allow me to comfortably shoot a few more pounds. I’ll just stick to running the 65lbs mods.

 

[sndmn11]

I have nothing bad to say about my lift and lift x. I was more curious to see if the smooth mod would allow me to comfortably shoot a few more pounds. I’ll just stick to running the 65lbs mods.

In my little mock up I had 65 smooth ones on the bow. Maybe it was on archery talk vs this thread where I was reading complaints about the draw cycle.

 

[MT257]

In my little mock up I had 65 smooth ones on the bow. Maybe it was on archery talk vs this thread where I was reading complaints about the draw cycle.

65 is comfortable for me, but the draw catches up to me if I use the 70.

 

[billysmals]

I wouldn't say the lift/lift x has a bad draw. I shot the Lift x at 65 and 70lbs last year a lot trying to decide if I was going to buy the 33. It's just a personal preference, but I felt like the front end was stiff and then the roll over to the valley was more pronounced and the valley is short. This is not bad, and I would get used to it. I find that this draw cycle requires a decent amount of back tension, which is a great thing for accuracy and most target shooters prefer this. But for hunting, when it's cold, or you are sore, or you have to take a step, bend around a bush, ect...if you have even a bit of relaxation the mathews lift/lift x can get twitchy and want to pull down.

You do get used it though. I have my dad and brother in law who both shoot the Lift and love them.

I also shot a Lift RS next to the ARC 34 Z mod and the Hoyt RX10. They set the Lift RS up first at 60lbs standard mods and it was a pleasure to draw-but I expected that at 60lbs. Then they turned it to 70...not super great to me. I first pulled it back and and it was stiff------coming into the valley I hit the wall and then bounced off and completley let down. I adjusted my pull, but it was aggressive. Yes I know it's a 5.5 brace and a short ATA bow so it exaggerates everything, but it still had all the same characteristics, just more noticeable. My plan was to buy the RS and put the Z mods on.---This is mostly due to the fact I'm used to the way my Darton draws...so my muscles engage at different places.

Long story short, you learn the draw cycle of every bow and it becomes comfortable. A lot of the guys who work at the shop I use shoot the Lift/Lift X at 75-80lbs and have no problem at all and love it.

 

[Machingeaneer]

In my little mock up I had 65 smooth ones on the bow. Maybe it was on archery talk vs this thread where I was reading complaints about the draw cycle.

A few folks over there have been fairly critical. I'm interested to hear some opinions about smooth mods on the lift x, the arc could make those a bit more affordable.

 

[sndmn11]

A few folks over there have been fairly critical. I'm interested to hear some opinions about smooth mods on the lift x, the arc could make those a bit more affordable.

I still have a 55lb swx mod from owning that LiftX, I was bummed to see they aren't the same DL on the Arc. If they were I'd have clicked order already.