Looking for fast arrow set up advice

[ElkRcool]

Screwed into what? If you added a whole bunch of weight into the front you might have created a spine weakness issue for yourself. Same if you didn't cut any length off them. And that's exacerbated if your bow is drawing heavy too.

Let me rephrase that, I started with a box of 6 RIP TKO arrows that already had vanes, cut the vanes off, cleaned it the shafts up, put on some arrow wraps, and then glued the AAE Max Stealth vanes on. I used the inserts that came with the arrows. The arrows have been cut to size. I can get a length if you’d like.

 

[ElkRcool]

I have seen several ARC's draw heavy, like 5#.

I'm guessing yours is.

Or chrono is off a little. 70# at 29.5 mods and 476 gr should be sub 290's, not by much, but probably around 285. 4 extra pounds get you to 293.

For what I have seen.

That’s really interesting. Where things sit, do you have a recommendation on where to start on my tuning process? Ex 1. Check paper tune, 2. Go shoot some bare shafts, 3 adjust rest, etc… seems like there are 1000 ways to do this after some reading online.

 

[Billy Goat]

That’s really interesting. Where things sit, do you have a recommendation on where to start on my tuning process? Ex 1. Check paper tune, 2. Go shoot some bare shafts, 3 adjust rest, etc… seems like there are 1000 ways to do this after some reading online.

Bare shaft tuning requires a consistent shooter, you can try that, but might pull your hair out.


Broadhead tuning is what you need, you can bareshaft tune, then check your broadheads and shouldn't need to adjust, or just shoot a couple broadheads, followed by a few field points, then adjust to bring things together. Ultimately for a hunting bow, that's the goal, just different ways to get there.

Broadhead tuning will burn up targets, and can be detrimental to arrows if you aren't shooting multiple spots, which then requires a big target, thats why a lot of guys will bareshaft instead of spending much time with broadheads. They will basically give you the same results.


I don't put much into paper tuning, it's a starting point for broadheads, still doesn't get you there. It picks up on big arrow flight issues, but can miss the minor.


Confirm your timing is correct, if you are even slightly out of time, the nock travel isn't level and broadheads pick up on it.
Then, if you know your broadheads are hitting low, bump your rest just slightly up, like less than 1/16".

 

[KBC]

I'm in the process of building new arrows, tuning new strings and cables and sighting in a new sight. Here's how I'll go through the process;
1. I build all the arrows minus the fletching
2. Make sure the bow is in time with the new strings and cables, rest is about at center shot, peep installed etc. and I've shot it at least a dozen times to settle everything.
3. Shoot all the bare shafts through paper and nock tune them until I get every arrow tearing as close as possible to each other. I'm not looking for a perfect tear right now, I want them tearing the same.
4. I bare shaft paper tune by moving my rest in small amounts
5. Now I put 4 heat vanes on (I like 4 fletch for the simple fact you can shoot a little farther with that little extra clearance and if you have to nock tune after fletching, you have 4 spots instead of 3)
6. I shoot the fletched arrows through paper just to make sure they are good
7. Sight in my bow with field points to get it close out to 60 or 70 yards
8. I'll shoot a broad head and a field point at 20 now. If they are close, I'll try 30 and keep moving back until they start getting too far apart to keep them on target, then I'll micro adjust my rest and keep moving back as far as I can. If at 20, they are really far apart, I'll cut the fletching off one but leave the bases of them and add enough electrical tape on the back so the bare shaft weighs the same as the fletched arrows and bare shaft tune at 20 until it's good. Then I'll go back to broad head tuning.
9. Once the broad heads and field points are hitting together as far as I want them to, I will really fine tune my sight.
10. After everything is flying good and my sight is good I set my third axis up on a draw board, which I've had good luck getting it very close and then I check it by shooting it and finish setting it if needed.
11. Now that I think everything is set, I go and confirm field points and broad heads are still hitting together and where I put my pins.
12. After reading all this I realized I could probably do a bunch of steps just for building the arrows and I may be on the spectrum.

 

[ElkRcool]

I'm in the process of building new arrows, tuning new strings and cables and sighting in a new sight. Here's how I'll go through the process;
1. I build all the arrows minus the fletching
2. Make sure the bow is in time with the new strings and cables, rest is about at center shot, peep installed etc. and I've shot it at least a dozen times to settle everything.
3. Shoot all the bare shafts through paper and nock tune them until I get every arrow tearing as close as possible to each other. I'm not looking for a perfect tear right now, I want them tearing the same.
4. I bare shaft paper tune by moving my rest in small amounts
5. Now I put 4 heat vanes on (I like 4 fletch for the simple fact you can shoot a little farther with that little extra clearance and if you have to nock tune after fletching, you have 4 spots instead of 3)
6. I shoot the fletched arrows through paper just to make sure they are good
7. Sight in my bow with field points to get it close out to 60 or 70 yards
8. I'll shoot a broad head and a field point at 20 now. If they are close, I'll try 30 and keep moving back until they start getting too far apart to keep them on target, then I'll micro adjust my rest and keep moving back as far as I can. If at 20, they are really far apart, I'll cut the fletching off one but leave the bases of them and add enough electrical tape on the back so the bare shaft weighs the same as the fletched arrows and bare shaft tune at 20 until it's good. Then I'll go back to broad head tuning.
9. Once the broad heads and field points are hitting together as far as I want them to, I will really fine tune my sight.
10. After everything is flying good and my sight is good I set my third axis up on a draw board, which I've had good luck getting it very close and then I check it by shooting it and finish setting it if needed.
11. Now that I think everything is set, I go and confirm field points and broad heads are still hitting together and where I put my pins.
12. After reading all this I realized I could probably do a bunch of steps just for building the arrows and I may be on the spectrum.

Thanks for sharing your process

 

[Tilzbow]

I shoot a 500 grain arrow at 290 FPS and I’m able to get large fixed blade broad heads to fly with field points to 60 yards and beyond. I’m shooting 70#, 30.75” draw and shoot a .250 spine arrow. I begin tuning with a bareshaft at 20 yards, move to 30, then final tune with the largest fixed blade head I’ve got and an arrow I know has been shot and verified to be good. The two least forgiving broadheads I have right now are an Iron Will wide and a 3-blade VPA so I’ll use one or both for finalizing bow tuning.

When building arrows, I square the nock and point end of the arrows with an arrow squaring device and the last 24 I built I nocked tuned all shafts before fletching. This isn’t necessary but can speed up the process later so you don’t have to nock tune as many arrows when shooting each with a broad head. Once my arrows and built and bow tuned, I’ll shoot every arrow with three different style of fixed blade broad heads and nock tune as needed. My yield of perfect arrows is usually about 11 of 12 to 23 of 24. The few that won’t shoot all three styles of fixed blade broad heads for whatever reason get “field point” written on a fletch and are practice only arrows. After fletching and before shooting I write numbers on every fletch so I can keep track of arrows and log how well each groups with different broad heads. This helps in the future since I can’t remember what I did year to year.

 

[ElkRcool]

update: I brought my bow to the shop, they did a basic tune and ended up moving my rest up a tad (I presume because my first pin became a 30y pin, and it was at 20y when I brought it in?) I picked up a dozen arrows shafts to start building some more arrows, I have not start this project yet.

I was shooting today and wanted to include some photos for analysis. All shots were at 30 yards, it was kind of breezy (maybe 7mph with gusts of 10 going from right to left). Form felt good and pretty consistent. FP groups trended with the wind. The circle is 3” I think.

First group: broad head low/left



Second group: broadhead low/left



Third group: broadhead landed with field points (unexpectedly) and broke one arrow



Forth group: broad head trend continues at low left, but slightly higher




I will probably start knock tuning first/playing around with other shafts. But would like to hear what everyone thinks

 

[HunterGatherer]

Don’t broadhead tune in the wind. Also, aim at a different dot with your broadheads to minimize collateral damage

 

[ElkRcool]

Don’t broadhead tune in the wind. Also, aim at a different dot with your broadheads to minimize collateral damage

Haha, probably the only time I’ve been upset that it grouped with the FP, like I said that was not expected haha

 

[Turkeygetpwnd38]

It's impossible to know by looking at pictures of groups but I'm guessing it's your grip/form. That's why the one "unexpectedly" hit with field points.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

You're shooting the broadhead arrow first each time, right?