Leupold Mark 4 HD 6-24x52…drop test

[Juan_ID]

Awesome you guys are doing this! I was an early “dropper” of the maven RS 1.2 and when I saw the results I bought two more to avoid the Rokslide buying frenzy

Would love to see that 2.5-10 pass, I am in need of a lightweight scope and regrettably sold my swfa 3-9.

I believe I dropped my maven shortly after you if I remember correctly. And while it passed I will say the padding I used with this Leupy are significantly less forgiving I do believe. For what it’s worth I did drop the Maven from about waist height before removing it from the rifle and it didn’t appear to have any shift though I didn’t do a 10 shotter.

 

[willfrye027]

I believe I dropped my maven shortly after you if I remember correctly. And while it passed I will say the padding I used with this Leupy are significantly less forgiving I do believe. For what it’s worth I did drop the Maven from about waist height before removing it from the rifle and it didn’t appear to have any shift though I didn’t do a 10 shotter.

I’m not a drop testing expert by any means..I’m seeing maybe a .4 moa shift in the group down? Factoring in 10 round group and changing position..i wouldn’t be surprised if your leupy actually held zero. Just eyeballing it looks pretty darn good to me. But I’m pretty set for the season so maybe if the 2.5-10s start passing drop tests I’d look into it for next year.

 

[Juan_ID]

Neither am I, it looks to be about .4 down shift. I will have to try another 10 shot breaking position after each shot to see how it changes the group size and poi.

 

[alpine_troop]

Thanks for posting this! Please keep us updated with periodic zero checks if you don’t mind.

 

[Wiscgunner]

One thing I like to do when setting up my scopes is to rely more on the full scope image rather than my exact cheek position. In other words, I setup my scope on the rifle so when I get on the gun and lean my head forward into the scope (not tilting right), as I tighten my grip to the shoulder the scope image goes from 90% to 100%. This insures I shoot from the same head position each time or extremely close and helps to reduced error from random head placement. I know some people that mark their comb with tape or something to feel the position of their cheek weld, not my preferred method but whatever works.

Also, If I really want to shoot for groups for testing equipment or components, I dial my scope off zero. This insures my fine aimpoint remains intact to aim at. Blowing out the center of my target makes my zero point, less zero-e. Also I find diamond shapes really help align the reticle with the corners of the diamond for maintaining a more precise hold on the aimpoint rather than 1/4ing a circle.

 

[slowelk]

@Juan_ID are you using the UM torque specs or the leupold torque specs? Loctite/paint pen on the threads?

 

[Juan_ID]

One thing I like to do when setting up my scopes is to rely more on the full scope image rather than my exact cheek position. In other words, I setup my scope on the rifle so when I get on the gun and lean my head forward into the scope (not tilting right), as I tighten my grip to the shoulder the scope image goes from 90% to 100%. This insures I shoot from the same head position each time or extremely close and helps to reduced error from random head placement. I know some people that mark their comb with tape or something to feel the position of their cheek weld, not my preferred method but whatever works.

Also, If I really want to shoot for groups for testing equipment or components, I dial my scope off zero. This insures my fine aimpoint remains intact to aim at. Blowing out the center of my target makes my zero point, less zero-e. Also I find diamond shapes really help align the reticle with the corners of the diamond for maintaining a more precise hold on the aimpoint rather than 1/4ing a circle.

That is a good suggestion on the scope positioning and dialing the scope off zero to maintain a clean aim point. However I like the added pressure of watching a good group eat away my aim point and trying not to blow it.

@Juan_ID are you using the UM torque specs or the leupold torque specs? Loctite/paint pen on the threads?

Not sure whose specs I’m using, I have been doing 25 on the scope caps and 45 on the bases along with paint pen.

 

[slowelk]

Not sure whose specs I’m using, I have been doing 25 on the scope caps and 45 on the bases along with paint pen.

Those are the UM tikka ring specs

 

[Juan_ID]

Those are the UM tikka ring specs

Gotchya, I have been doing that on the sportsmatch as well.

 

[SDHNTR]

I’ve long since divorced myself from Leupold so I’m not up to speed. Is this Mark 4 a new line? Perhaps of different/better design?

 

[Juan_ID]

I’ve long since divorced myself from Leupold so I’m not up to speed. Is this Mark 4 a new line? Perhaps of different/better design?

This is my first Leupold since my dad bought me a 3-9 rifleman as a gift in jr high. But yes it is a new line, not quite sure what’s all different between it and the Mark5. Hard to think they’d build this line better being it’s considerably less $$ but

I bought this with no idea if it’d be worth a damn and was wanting to drop it and see how it did. I shot 1 nrl match with it and now have probably 250-300 rounds on it, I’ve bounced it between rifles so much it’s hard to know if zero has moved at all. Based on the drops I’d say it probably hasn’t but I plan to leave it on this rifle for a while so can hopefully track it a little better and see if it holds over time.