Leupold Mark 4 HD 6-24x52…drop test

[Juan_ID]

Just leaving the range and thought I’d start this now cuz who doesn’t like themselves a good teaser…


I decided to do this with my nrlhunter rifle since that’s the gun this scope will likely be on the most. It’s a 24” factory barreled t3x 6.5creed CTR that’s been fluted and nothing else. Bare rifle weighs right at 10lbs and was bought 3rd or 4th hand early last year. I’ve documented just over 2000 rounds since I got it (and haven’t ran a single patch down the barrel) the previous owners weren’t sure on round count. Hoping it lasts another few thousand rounds.
To start I re-zero’d the rifle after moving the scope over from my 22GT, it was about 2 mil low and .4 mil right, got it centered and fired 10. This gun typically shoots just under 1” for a 10 shotter, initial zero is below.

Then I followed that up with a “return to zero” test. Dialed max elevation which on this gun is 17.6 mils so I went up then back to zero X2 between every shot. Total of 350 mils dialed between the 5 shots. I was wanting to get to the drops so I didn’t do this for 10 as the group was staying tight.

Then I did my drop “test” 1 18” drop on all 3 sides with 1 shot between each drop. Then onto 1 36” drop on all 3 sides with 1 shot between each drop. Then I did 3 drops from 18-24”ish, one on each side with 1 shot between each set of 3 drops. For a total of 9 shots and 15 drops, the shots in this photo are in the correct order. Can’t say the same for all the others with much certainty.


Then I fired another 10 shotter to “re-check” zero after everything.


Below is my drop pad (second photo) and shooting setup. The drop spot was a thin blanket doubled up, my little glassing pad that’s about 15 years old and seen better days and my cheap shooting mat on top of that. And lastly is a picture of how I typically have the rifles when headed to the range if it’s not laying on the floor board.



All in all I would say it did much better than I was anticipating.
Did it shift between drops? Yes
Was it enough that it would have caused me to miss an animal at the ranges I normally shoot? I don’t think so
Would I say this one passed? Yes-ish
Would I buy another one? Probably
Am I going to buy a 2.5-10 to throw around? Maybe
Do I plan to smash it in the door jam of my truck next time? not likely but maybe
Is it liberating to drop a $1k scope in hopes it holds up? Most certainly.

 

[BigNate]

So did you drive off and drop it off the tail gate? According to RS all Leopold products suck.

 

[ljalberta]

Well thanks for doing this. I’ll say one thing. That is some mighty fine shooting there.

 

[AZ_Hunter]

I have been hoping the MK4 proved to be reliable.

 

[ID_Matt]

Good thinking on using that app for group size and zero references. Since the zero is really less than a tenth difference between the original group and drop group, I wonder if some of the larger group size has to do with breaking positions between each? Though 1.16” for 10 shots is still great in terms of system accuracy

2 sets of data points on the 24x now. Need the 18x and 10x to be dropped!

 

[Juan_ID]

So did you drive off and drop it off the tail gate? According to RS all Leopold products suck.

Nope none of that yet, but I may smash it in the door at some point just for shits and giggles

 

[Juan_ID]

Well thanks for doing this. I’ll say one thing. That is some mighty fine shooting there.

This rifle just seems to shoot so I can’t take much credit for that, but thank you.

 

[Slick8]

Thanks for the great info on the scope testing.

Great shooting, what's the rifle and chambering?

 

[Edge]

Nice shooting and providing another data point while thrashing your gear!

 

[JCMCUBIC]

..., I wonder if some of the larger group size has to do with breaking positions between each? ...

I can't speak for the shooter, scope, or test, but in my experience, I can see a change from breaking position. It's not massive, but not breaking position results is tighter groups for me on longer shot strings.

 

[Juan_ID]

Thanks for the great info on the scope testing.

Great shooting, what's the rifle and chambering?

It is a tikka ctr 6.5 creedmoor

 

[Slick8]

Dang good looking bang stick.

 

[NSI]

Nice shooting and thanks for thrashing your gear. Just bought the non-illum 2.5-10 TMR, looking forward to replicating this. Fingers crossed for Leupold stumbling into a 1.2 of their own...

Best,
-J

 

[Juan_ID]

I can't speak for the shooter, scope, or test, but in my experience, I can see a change from breaking position. It's not massive, but not breaking position results is tighter groups for me on longer shot strings.

I have never checked this before. Next time out I’ll try to shoot a 10 shotter with this same rifle and break position each time to see what the results are.

 

[Juan_ID]

Nice shooting and thanks for thrashing your gear. Just bought the non-illum 2.5-10 TMR, looking forward to replicating this. Fingers crossed for Leupold stumbling into a 1.2 of their own...

Best,
-J

I have almost bought a 2.5-10 more times than I care to admit. Hope it does well!

 

[Jason Snyder]

I have almost bought a 2.5-10 more times than I care to admit. Hope it does well!

Same. I just didn’t have the discretionary spending budget to risk an unknown. I spent it on a Maven instead. The 2.5-10 would be a great scope for a lighter rifle setup.

 

[willfrye027]

Awesome you guys are doing this! I was an early “dropper” of the maven RS 1.2 and when I saw the results I bought two more to avoid the Rokslide buying frenzy

Would love to see that 2.5-10 pass, I am in need of a lightweight scope and regrettably sold my swfa 3-9.

 

[NSI]

I have never checked this before. Next time out I’ll try to shoot a 10 shotter with this same rifle and break position each time to see what the results are.

This is a real phenomenon but it may affect you differently than you'd expect.

1) Groups will be their smallest, all else equal, if the shooter maintains their cheek weld between each shot. This ensures that any parallax error is held relatively constant through the string.

2) Groups will best reflect the true center of the cone, all else equal, if the shooter breaks position between each shot. This randomizes any parallax error which may occur on each shot, though it can't eliminate inherent bias in your cheek weld and shot process.

Ideally, get behind the gun while it's held steady at the front and rear. Without touching the gun, move your head behind the scope to observe the reticle moving relative to a target. Adjust the parallax knob and repeat, until you can no longer observe appreciable parallax error in this test. When you've done this, note the setting - it will likely not line up with the settings on the knob.

Of course you won't have to deal with any of this on the 2.5-10 or a SWFA fixed!

Hope this helps,
-J

 

[AZ_Hunter]

The only thing I don’t like about the 2.5-10 mk4, like the 2-10 Credo, is the lack of side focus. I know some say it’s unnecessary on a scope with this magnification range, but I disagree. I like having the ability to fine-tune the focus/parallax. I have used old school Vortex Vipers 2-10x32’s (gasp) for over a decade which have side focus, and employed that feature all the time.

 

[Juan_ID]

This is a real phenomenon but it may affect you differently than you'd expect.

1) Groups will be their smallest, all else equal, if the shooter maintains their cheek weld between each shot. This ensures that any parallax error is held relatively constant through the string.

2) Groups will best reflect the true center of the cone, all else equal, if the shooter breaks position between each shot. This randomizes any parallax error which may occur on each shot, though it can't eliminate inherent bias in your cheek weld and shot process.

Ideally, get behind the gun while it's held steady at the front and rear. Without touching the gun, move your head behind the scope to observe the reticle moving relative to a target. Adjust the parallax knob and repeat, until you can no longer observe appreciable parallax error in this test. When you've done this, note the setting - it will likely not line up with the settings on the knob.

Of course you won't have to deal with any of this on the 2.5-10 or a SWFA fixed!

Hope this helps,
-J

I do mess with the parallax some but doubt I get it perfect every time. I generally move it around until both the target and reticle are in focus and call it good. I have noticed it’s not 100% in relation to the yardage on the knob but it’s generally fairly close. Thanks for the insight, I would like to try this if for no other reason than curiosity since it’s now been brought to my attention.