Lets talk Chainsaws

[Dogone]

I bought an 80cc Chinese clone saw. Works fine for a second saw on big stuff. Half the price of a name brand saw. Use premix gas always. Even pro loggers use it . Keep your chain sharp and be real careful.

 

[.204smokechaser]

I’d look for a stihl 036 or a straight 362 in a scenario like your original post and get a full wrap.

Unless you’re strictly falling and bucking merchantable timber all day long 6 plus months a year, no need to waste a lot of dough and become the latest member of the property owner 500i club.

Don’t get any of the “c” stuff. I’ve had nothing but problems with “c’s” and mostly they’ve been the ones to first blow up. Yes have 7 saws going into the shop this winter and 5 are c’s that are either blown up or I want to get rid of.

 

[Wellsdw]

if possible find a small time logger to come in cut the timber, make him use his saws. use the timber $ if there is any to start paying on the grading work. it will take years to turn timber to pasture without big equipment. as far as saw selection goes id say it depends on the tree type and size. for small stuff say under 10" im not killing myself with an 80cc 24" saw. bending over or not. ill use my 246 husky. favorites saw though hands down my 330t topper.

 

[M1SF1T]

To the OP - your choices are fine all around general light use consumer level homeowner saws.

I would go with the Husky every time. At that level I would go with the 445 over the Rancher.
If you have the budget or you're planning on falling anything larger than a small tree you might consider something with a bigger bar and more power. 565 is a nice saw (or if you can pick up a used 365 special) with 28" bar will work be ideal.

A long bar is easy nicer bucking too. Crouching and bucking cords of wood with an 18" bar gets old. Stand up and buck!

 

[Hoodie]

What’s your preferred sharpening method? I’ve been using a Stihl 2-in-1, but I’m not convinced I’m really getting the chain very sharp (very well could be operator error).

I personally hand file with round file and then file down the rakers separately with a flat file. We keep a 2-in-1 around at the shop, but I'm in the PNW and 80% of my work is on softwoods so I typically run my rakers a little lower than .025. I always use a file guide. I've heard lots of people advocate not using them, but they're for more than just getting the angle right. They also keep the file seated at the right depth while you're sharpening.

Sharpening just takes time and practice. I teach a lot of new folks to use chainsaws and everyone on my crews has to learn to sharpen their own saw. It usually takes about 6 weeks or so before they're proficient at it. In the meantime if I see their saw isn't cutting well I'll give them a different one so they don't develop the bad habits that come with learning on a dull saw.

This is a pretty solid tutorial.

 

[Ope]

Everybody knows you need 2 saws . You'll eventually need to get the first one out of a jam. Don't forget the wedges and safety gear. I wear chaps and a forestry helmet. Guys around here like to laugh about it but if you ever had a dead limb fall out of a tree while cutting it you'll be glad you have the helmet. Plus it keeps saw chips out of my face and it has ear pro.

I heat solely with wood and maintain my property, both my sisters' property, my parents' property, and do a little milling for personal use. Stihls are good saws but I don't have any experience with them. I have 5 Husky pro saws 268xp, 372xp, 395xp, 550xp, 572xp, 1 Husky 350, an Echo CS590 (which is a pro saw I believe?) and a small top handle saw for trimming. As a single saw for homeowner use, for the money, I'd go with the CS590. Learn how to use and maintain it, and when you go to get your second saw you'll know what you like/don't like about it. You can always size up if you need to and use the CS590 as a secondary.

I see advice of longer bars. Which is fine, and I'm no expert, but if you're not familiar running saws in my opinion I'd stick to a 20" bar, a longer bar is just more bar to get pinched, stuck in dirt, hit rocks, and more chain to file.

Learn how to mix fuel, learn to tune your carb (if it's not electronic), learn HOW and WHEN to file the chain (teeth and rakers), learn safe felling practices, and learn the correct way to cut blown down trees, a lot of people don't realize there's a lot of tension in them. Stay away from that rootball when it lets go. Check out arboristsite it's a good site with a lot of info you can learn from. Good luck and stay safe bud!