Let's talk Broadheads....

[Jethro]

There is nothing magical about a 125gr broadhead vs a 100gr. In your case a little heavier arrow wouldn't be bad for elk. Your on the light side of acceptable, IMO. But I wouldn't sacrifice tuneability and arrow flight for more weight.

 

[InGodsCountry]

Another good head to look at is the Annihilator XL. Shot through a bulls shoulder blade (whoops) this fall at 42 yds and got around 15" of penetration. 70lb at 28.5 draw & arrow was 405 gr, I was impressed to say the least when he only went 45 yds.

 

[Scoot]

Shoot what you have and you'll be fine. Switch to the 125 version of the Montec and if it flies/tunes great, you'll be a little bit better. Both options are better than the guide's suggestion.

 

[Marble]

I'm not a fan of any of the heads that have the thin razor blade type blades. They break or bend and they get dull very easily.

I would rather have a solid type head with good metal that I can shoot more than one time.

I'm not going to try and save $100 on a hunt that costs usually more than $2000 -$3000 for NR hunters. I don't want an equipment failure to be the reason I don't kill an elk.

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[Billy Goat]

Keep in mind if you are upgrading your bow, especially to a faster one, you likely won't have enough spine for 125 heads. So you will be changing arrows too. Or backing your poundage off a bit to get the 340's to work.

In my experience.

With a newer SW model Mathews your specs will have you over 290 fps, which that 15 fps pushes that arrow that much harder. Adding weight to the front will slow it down, about 8 fps, but again, it's harder on spine.

So if you are changing bows, I'd recommend changing your arrow spine as well.


I can make a 340 work with a 125 head, but it's cut short. Really short.

Lots of good broadheads, it's easy to overthink. I have 5 different ones in my quiver. Likely best to stick to a cut on contact, fixed head.

 

[Coveyleader]

I’ve killed quite a few elk with all kinds of heads except mechanicals. I’m all about “cheap” and they work fine. If you’re looking for a nice head similar to yours, try the NAP hellrazor in 125. I killed three elk last year with them, a couple the year before, and a couple the year before that. You can find them for 25 bucks for 3 at times my arrows are slow, real slow and still get full penetration or pass throughs on the regular.

Edit, I don’t like them but if you’re bent on the Thunderheads Cabelas is pretty much giving them away right now.


Have fun

 

[Mighty Mouse]

If you're happy with your 100 gr Montecs, keep shooting them. Put a weight screw behind the insert if you want a little heavier arrow.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Mathews VXR 31.5
80 lb draw weight @ 31.5”

I'm curious how you're getting 5 lbs of DW and 1/2" of DL over max spec. Is that just from adding cable twists?

 

[Rocky723]

I'm curious how you're getting 5 lbs of DW and 1/2" of DL over max spec. Is that just from adding cable twists?

The Mathews are known to come in a little heavier then their actual rating when torqued all the way down. My 70 lb Mathews comes in at 73 when the limb screws are fully maxed out and a few cable twists will definitely out those 75 lb mods at 80. They are also known to come in about 1/4-1/2 longer DL then what is advertised. Could be a possibility.

 

[Hunt the Top]

The Mathews are known to come in a little heavier then their actual rating when torqued all the way down. My 70 lb Mathews comes in at 73 when the limb screws are fully maxed out and a few cable twists will definitely out those 75 lb mods at 80. They are also known to come in about 1/4-1/2 longer DL then what is advertised. Could be a possibility.

Exactly right

 

[ewade07]

I just switched to the SEVR 1.5 125 gr heads this year. Was leering about a mechanical broadhead but i couldnt get my fixed blades to shoot well out past 50 yds. I shoot Easton Axis arrows (26.75"), total weight comes in at around 485 gr. I shot my cow this year at 60 yds and almost had a clean pass through. As others have said, increase total arrow weight and find the broadhead that shoots best for you.

 

[wind gypsy]

If the guide recommended that broadhead without knowing the rest of your setup i'd throw his advice in the trash.

In my limited experience around guides, a good guide knows animals and how to get a good shot on them but many aren't gear nerds with a high level understanding of why certain things work better than others.

 

[InGodsCountry]

I just switched to the SEVR 1.5 125 gr heads this year. Was leering about a mechanical broadhead but i couldnt get my fixed blades to shoot well out past 50 yds. I shoot Easton Axis arrows (26.75"), total weight comes in at around 485 gr. I shot my cow this year at 60 yds and almost had a clean pass through. As others have said, increase total arrow weight and find the broadhead that shoots best for you.

I also picked some up in 100 grain SEVR for mule deer and antelope. I’ve heard great things about their durability and accuracy. Excited to try them out this fall.


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[ewade07]

I was leery about shooting a mechanical, but they made quick work of my cow this year! They are definitely accurate, fly just like fieldpoints.

 

[TheViking]

Some good heads mentioned above. No need for the 33.00 heads, and they will not stand behind the hand shake warntee.

Magnus Black hornets, QAD exodus, slick tricks, all have worked well of elk for me. Tune your bow and anything will fly like a dart.

Not saying anyone 'needs' the 33.00 head, but mine was replaced, without question after I killed my bull this year, and it was marginally beat up (hit offside shoulder).

They now have a stipulation that is has to be in the act of taking an animal. Which I 100% understand. You have idiots torture testing them non stop, then sending them in to be replaced.

 

[TheViking]

If the guide recommended that broadhead without knowing the rest of your setup i'd throw his advice in the trash.

In my limited experience around guides, a good guide knows animals and how to get a good shot on them but many aren't gear nerds with a high level understanding of why certain things work better than others.

Absolutely agree!

 

[InGodsCountry]

Not saying anyone 'needs' the 33.00 head, but mine was replaced, without question after I killed my bull this year, and it was marginally beat up (hit offside shoulder).

They now have a stipulation that is has to be in the act of taking an animal. Which I 100% understand. You have idiots torture testing them non stop, then sending them in to be replaced.

Which company we speaking of here that replaces heads? Iron will?


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[easleyreckless]

Which company we speaking of here that replaces heads? Iron will?


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Yep, Iron will replaces your broadhead if it's damaged taking an animal.

 

[Earlierbird]

So I've been using 100 gr G5 monotec cs broadheads for a long time. Getting into my first elk hunt next year and the guide suggested 125gr broadhead with a chiseled tip. Didn't really care about the brand just that weight and profile. I've been looking at the NAP Thunderheads. Just looking for the guys with experience, thoughts, opinions, I'm all ears...

The g5 will do all you would need.

 

[Fullfan]

Yep, Iron will replaces your broadhead if it's damaged taking an animal.

But not if a bleeder can not be tightened. Told not to worry about it.