- Thread Starter
- #41
OP
Latebloomer
Lil-Rokslider
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2022
- Messages
- 240
Agree!Absolutely agree!
Agree!Absolutely agree!
If you decide to switch arrows, choose quality. Do not measure or worry about your FOC. That stuff is all BS anyways. Do not have a total weight in mind, e.g. I need 510 grains...if you hit that mark that is just fine. But dont obsess over it... But buy a quality arrow.Only thing I’m re-thinking is my overall weight arrow at 402 gr seems to be lighter than majority of other setups I’m seeing….
Gold Tip FACT weights are an inexpensive way to increase arrow weight.Only thing I’m re-thinking is my overall weight arrow at 402 gr seems to be lighter than majority of other setups I’m seeing….
Mostly, I agree with this. FOC isn't ALL BS, IMO, but its importance is not huge (no nearly what people make of it). You'd be better off with 450-500 total weight, but if you swap to a 125 head you'll also be ok too. In fact, you're ok now. You'll see a small improvement switching to 425 and another improvement bumping up 25 or 50 more grains. But... over 400 is ok and more than sufficient. None of these details will matter as much as putting your shot where you should.If you decide to switch arrows, choose quality. Do not measure or worry about your FOC. That stuff is all BS anyways. Do not have a total weight in mind, e.g. I need 510 grains...if you hit that mark that is just fine. But dont obsess over it... But buy a quality arrow.
Just an example, if you bought easton Axis in 300 spine, put 50 grains of vrass in the front and a 100 grain head, you would be somewhere around 470-500 grains. This can be done with lots of other arrows too. Remember, the biggest part of arrow accuracy is the shooter.
Buy atleast a dozen, and shoot a lot. Good luck and enjoy!!!
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
I've only needed to have one IW replaced, and that was after a pass through hit some rocks. No questions asked. Great head, great company.Yep, Iron will replaces your broadhead if it's damaged taking an animal.
I have a friend who has killed 55 elk with a bow, mostly with arrows in the 400 grain range total weight, 100 grain heads. My partner and I have killed 68, most with either Muzzy 125 or Slick Trick 125, with total arrow packages of around 420-440 grain. Most of these were killed with stickbows between 52-58 lbs. FWIW. I've switched to Iron Will 125s a few years ago for a number of reasons. No need to overthink it. The heads you are shooting will do just fine if they tune well for your setup and are sharp as hell. Al little more weight won't hurt you, though.Only thing I’m re-thinking is my overall weight arrow at 402 gr seems to be lighter than majority of other setups I’m seeing….
Listen to this guy. He knows his shit.I have a friend who has killed 55 elk with a bow, mostly with arrows in the 400 grain range total weight, 100 grain heads. My partner and I have killed 68, most with either Muzzy 125 or Slick Trick 125, with total arrow packages of around 420-440 grain. Most of these were killed with stickbows between 52-58 lbs. FWIW. I've switched to Iron Will 125s a few years ago for a number of reasons. No need to overthink it. The heads you are shooting will do just fine if they tune well for your setup and are sharp as hell. Al little more weight won't hurt you, though.
Appreciate the feedback. Good information.I have a friend who has killed 55 elk with a bow, mostly with arrows in the 400 grain range total weight, 100 grain heads. My partner and I have killed 68, most with either Muzzy 125 or Slick Trick 125, with total arrow packages of around 420-440 grain. Most of these were killed with stickbows between 52-58 lbs. FWIW. I've switched to Iron Will 125s a few years ago for a number of reasons. No need to overthink it. The heads you are shooting will do just fine if they tune well for your setup and are sharp as hell. Al little more weight won't hurt you, though.
I shoot 100 gr montecs and the Elk seem pretty dead when I shoot them. If they fly good use them.If you're happy with your 100 gr Montecs, keep shooting them. Put a weight screw behind the insert if you want a little heavier arrow.
110% correct on sharpness point. Research the process of clotting called thromboplastin, it’ll explain why sharpness extends the process of clotting, which in turn is better blood trails which leads to an easy recovery. Simple as that.I choose broadheads that are:
Sharp and stay Sharp
High quality with consistent performance
I haven't found one that didn't shoot well in my bow. But i have someone who can tune a bow better than anyone I've met and can teach archery to anyone willing to learn.
Whatever broadhead the OP chooses, it should be able to shave hair.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Any tricks to resharpening a slick trick?Two broadheads that you may want to look at: Slicktrick 125gr & Magnus Stinger, 2 blades with bleeders. Both seem to shoot as well as field points. Additionally, I love how easy the are to resharpen after use. I have many that I’ve killed multiple animals with. Also, they’re not super expensive—relatively.
Agree with this ^^^^^. If tuning becomes an issue stick with your current head and use weight in arrow....I have steered away from slightly larger heads (that are maybe 1/8 inch larger diameter) and stuck with 1" width BH and stack weight with inserts if trying to increase arrow weight or FOCIf you're happy with your 100 gr Montecs, keep shooting them. Put a weight screw behind the insert if you want a little heavier arrow.