Let’s talk bicycles…

[RS_Non-Res]

Maybe look for a Spring bike swap to buy used, but definitely make sure you get some good fitting advice.

Buddies and I started with mountain bikes (Cannondale and Trek) and added a second wheelset with skinnier road slicks. We eventually ended up installing a few hundred sheet metal screws from the inside out of some old knobbies and riding the Black River in the winter time. Same frame & components three different purposes. Not the best for 100-mile Saturdays but we coped. Rail trails and single track in the woods were fine. Rivers were a blast as long as we remembered the ice when we tried to put our feed down.

 

[Centralcoastca]

Surly makes some cool looking bikes that might fit what you’re looking for, basic hard tail mtn and gravel bikes that’d be great for trails or street. Most of them come with tons of mounts in case you wanted to add packs or racks which would be great if you ever wanted to hunt off of it. They are a little outside your stated price range but I’ve seen them used off and on, unfortunately never in my size.

 

[otolith]

One way I've saved a lot of money is buying a used bike. There are many people out there who get in to biking thinking it'll be pretty easy. They try riding a few times and realize riding requires work and for many it's not as fun as they thought it would be. They either put the bike in the garage to collect dust or they sell it. If you find a bike model you like and know what size frame works for you then start looking around locally or even online for a barely used bike. The last bike I bought was a used Specialized Roubaix. It only had 200 miles on it and was in pristine condition. I got a great deal on it and I'm still loving the bike going on 5 years now.

 

[Wyobohunter]

I know this strays from the OP’s question but it may be useful to him or someone. Hopefully I don’t cover a bunch of stuff that’s already been said. I really tried to read the other posts but… didn’t make it through most of them.

I’ll let you know that I’m not an avid bicycle rider.

I do use my mountain bike for elk hunting in a couple of different ways. Not really the hunting part though.
I drop it off and hide it/lock it to a tree in a strategic location for use later.

1- If there is a road I can get my truck up (up in elevation) that is at a logical place to end a hike I’ll drive up there and stash the bike. Then I’ll drive back down to where I plan to start hiking and park (often at a trailhead). I do my hike or even multi-day backpack trip on backcountry trails etc, ending at the bike. Then it’s an easy ride back to the truck through what isn’t likely productive hunting anyway (due to UTV’s and other traffic).

2- Some forest service roads close to all motorized vehicles during all or part of the season. I use the (non-motorized) bike on these roads to get deeper in. Again, I’m not so much hunting with the bike as I am getting away from motorized vehicles and other people. I also have a trailer for the bike but I think it may not be worth the trouble. Hauling any weight at all is pretty scary when going down a steep hill. Trailer brakes would probably fix that issue but I think it’s probably going to be just as easy to ride with a single quarter on my back at a time.

Right now I have an older (1990 something) Cannondale with no suspension and V brakes. Next year I intend to upgrade to a newer/lighter bike with modern features like hydraulic disc brakes, front suspension and a simple gear set with only one gear in the front. This year I upgraded my pack, tent and bought a new binocular so it wasn’t in the cards. Next year it’s the first and maybe only upgrade as I plan to spend $2-3k.

I’ve only used a mountain bike elk hunting for two years but have found it to be extremely useful and no trouble at all to bring along. I can legally bring it where 4 wheelers, UTV’s and e-bikes can’t go. It takes no fuel and is very unlikely to get stuck or break down. I don’t need to haul it on a trailer, I don’t need to register it in any way. It just makes sense to bring it nearly every time.

I was so hesitant to share that (as if I’m on to some big secret). Then I realized 75% of the folks that go out during elk season where I hunt are ass in seats UTV dudes and aren’t going to quit the $30-40k SxS they bought just because it doesn’t work. So this is for us other guys…

 

[Clearedhot1]

I know this strays from the OP’s question but it may be useful to him or someone. Hopefully I don’t cover a bunch of stuff that’s already been said. I really tried to read the other posts but… didn’t make it through most of them.

I’ll let you know that I’m not an avid bicycle rider.

I do use my mountain bike for elk hunting in a couple of different ways. Not really the hunting part though.
I drop it off and hide it/lock it to a tree in a strategic location for use later.

1- If there is a road I can get my truck up (up in elevation) that is at a logical place to end a hike I’ll drive up there and stash the bike. Then I’ll drive back down to where I plan to start hiking and park (often at a trailhead). I do my hike or even multi-day backpack trip on backcountry trails etc, ending at the bike. Then it’s an easy ride back to the truck through what isn’t likely productive hunting anyway (due to UTV’s and other traffic).

2- Some forest service roads close to all motorized vehicles during all or part of the season. I use the (non-motorized) bike on these roads to get deeper in. Again, I’m not so much hunting with the bike as I am getting away from motorized vehicles and other people. I also have a trailer for the bike but I think it may not be worth the trouble. Hauling any weight at all is pretty scary when going down a steep hill. Trailer brakes would probably fix that issue but I think it’s probably going to be just as easy to ride with a single quarter on my back at a time.

Right now I have an older (1990 something) Cannondale with no suspension and V brakes. Next year I intend to upgrade to a newer/lighter bike with modern features like hydraulic disc brakes, front suspension and a simple gear set with only one gear in the front. This year I upgraded my pack, tent and bought a new binocular so it wasn’t in the cards. Next year it’s the first and maybe only upgrade as I plan to spend $2-3k.

I’ve only used a mountain bike elk hunting for two years but have found it to be extremely useful and no trouble at all to bring along. I can legally bring it where 4 wheelers, UTV’s and e-bikes can’t go. It takes no fuel and is very unlikely to get stuck or break down. I don’t need to haul it on a trailer, I don’t need to register it in any way. It just makes sense to bring it nearly every time.

I was so hesitant to share that (as if I’m on to some big secret). Then I realized 75% of the folks that go out during elk season where I hunt are ass in seats UTV dudes and aren’t going to quit the $30-40k SxS they bought just because it doesn’t work. So this is for us other guys…

What you said is in the back of mind going into this. I’m sure there’s a nice expensive niche market for bow and rifle carriers to mount onto bicycles.


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[Finch]

I'm in the market too and have been looking at the sub $1000 price range too. There isn't a lot of inventory in bike shops right now. I test rode a Trek Marlin 6 in XL frame size. The guy at the shop said it fit me well (I'm also 6' even). It felt fine but seemed a little big to me. I've been wanting to try out a Large but they don't have one.

Things have changed since I used to ride a lot. 1x gear up front instead of 2x or 3x. The Marlin 6 has the 1x so it simplifies things by not having a derailleur up front.

Good luck.

 

[Wyobohunter]

What you said is in the back of mind going into this. I’m sure there’s a nice expensive niche market for bow and rifle carriers to mount onto bicycles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve toyed with mounting the bow and rifle to the bike. So far it’s just a hassle and makes the bike a pain to handle. My new pack (EXO K3) has a bow and a rifle carrier. I’m going to stick with that for now. Less stuff to buy, keep the bike light and simple. Also, the bow or rifle will get bounced around a lot hard mounted to the bike, even if it is full suspension. Mounted to my pack it has me as a shock absorber.

 

[Wyobohunter]

About bike security.
So far I’ve used a two layer security system when stashing the bike.

1- Hide it far enough away from a road that it can’t be seen. Maybe this is prejudice on my part but I’m betting that 90% of would be thieves are likely to be strict road hunters. My current bike is blue. My next bike will be some earth tone to blend in better.

2- Use a small diameter cable and lock. Make it require tools to steal. I figure a 1/4” diameter cable and small padlock will keep most anyone that happens to spot the bike honest. If someone is really determined and willing to pack tools I don’t think I’d want to carry the lock that could stop them.

I used the same cable/padlock to lock it in my truck bed when not using it. I also laid it flat in the bed so it was out of sight. Last year there were some horseback riding hunters camped down where the truck was. We got along great and there was usually at least one around. They told me they were keeping an eye on my stuff. Very nice folks.

 

[Fatcamp]

I mounted pack and rifle to my bike last Fall. Seemed like a good idea bit the handling characteristics were horrible. I'm gonna play with it a bit more this year.

ATV riflenmounts on the bars worked well.

 

[Fry]

Like a bow, most big brands are equal in quality. Majority of bike frames and parts come from the same country and even manufacturing plant. Like a bow, walk into a good local shop and tell them your situation and ask for help and youll get setup properly.

Do not go to a big box store with exception of maybe REI.

My go to brand has been Giant as they are solid and well priced with a lot of good models to choose at different levels of options.

 

[flatlanderhuffandpuff]

I have spent more on mountain bikes than hunting gear. It's kind of like hunting gear in that if you never use the best of the best you don't know what you are missing. Even the basic hardtail mountain bike with hydro brakes and tubeless tire setup will blow away the bikes of your childhood. Unless you are racing the high end stuff will be wasted money.

I would recommend working with a LBS for either a new or used bike. They can make sure you are set up correctly. An ill fitted bike will be harder on your knees than walking or running.

Get a good helmet and wear it. I know a guy who has had to deal with a TBI from "just a spin around the neighborhood" without one. That is a road you don't want to walk down.

 

[Wyobohunter]

This is a copy/paste from my phone notes. I’m a geek and keep a running list of hunt gear upgrades.

Mountain Bike $1800 - $2500

Requirements
-Simple one x gearing
-Hydraulic disc brakes
-27.5”+ or 29”wheels for traction/braking
-Lightweight (Hard tail)
-Must accommodate rear rack
-Must be painted a flat earth color (easy to hide).

Possibilities
-Specialized Fuse Comp 29
-Specialized Fuse 27.5
-Cannondale Trail SE 3
-Trek Roscoe 7
-Trek Roscoe 8
-Giant XTC SLR 29 2

Cargo rack
-Rock Bros Bike Cargo Rack
-West Biking Bike Carrier Rack, 310 LB

Note: The rear rack is for keeping a small tire pump, tire repair kit and the lock while riding. I may try lashing a quarter on there and/or see if I can find panniers that can accommodate two quarters.

 

[TXMedic]

I also vote mountain bike style.

Can't say this enough: Fitting a bike to you matters more than brand, but don't get a bike from a big box store. Bike shop brands are truly worth it. (Think: a car is a car, but Would you buy a Yugo?)

Lots of good input on this thread, not much more to say.

When you get a good frame, the rest of the parts can be swapped out if you decide to upgrade.
I still ride my old 26" hardtail Trek 8500 frame that I built right after 9/11. The frame was hand welded in 2001, in the US, prior to all the hydroforming tech you see in frames these days. The bike weighs less than 25lbs, which can come in handy if you're hunting and have to hump it.

26 vs 29 vs 27.5.... just pick one that feels right on a test ride. They all do the job, it's just a matter of keeping people interested. Make a new wheel size to sell more bikes or risk people losing interest.

Good luck and happy (bike) hunting.

 

[Wyobohunter]

Get a good helmet and wear it. I know a guy who has had to deal with a TBI from "just a spin around the neighborhood" without one. That is a road you don't want to walk down

Up to now I haven’t bothered. Now that I think about it that’s pretty dumb of me. I religiously wear all af my safety gear when I ride my motorcycle… why would I scoff at buying/wearing a relatively cheap bicycle helmet? Thanks!

 

[flatlanderhuffandpuff]

Up to now I haven’t bothered. Now that I think about it that’s pretty dumb of me. I religiously wear all af my safety gear when I ride my motorcycle… why would I scoff at buying/wearing a relatively cheap bicycle helmet? Thanks!

I am convinced my lid has saved my life on multiple occasions. The same goes for rock climbing. A friend of my brother smacked his head while top roping and almost didn't make it. Life flight and he isn't the same 2 years later. The brain is so complex and trauma is forever.

My kids childhood will differ from mine in this way for sure. We never wore helmets but my kids sure do.

 

[mtnbiker208]

clipless pedals, i agree get the bike fitted to you. your feet are locked into place.
flats for pedals, gettting a bike fitted to you, does not seem as important.

$1000 will get you an entry level bike, not a nice bike.

 

[Phaseolus]

Lots of stuff to plow through here. I’ve been riding mtn since 1983, rigid was a heck of a lot of fun back then, riding still is now on my Santa Cruz 5010 CC Full squish. I’m 62 now so my needs are different from that 23 year old. If you live in an area with lots of riders you might find a great high end used bike, maybe. You’ll want front suspension. If you decide against spending the money to get fitted at least have a shop measure your pelvic bones, a seat of the right width is important. Those fat cushy bikes seats are worse than a narrow seat that fits you, once your butt hardens off after a few rides the skinny seats are much more comfortable. Wear your good helmet, I’m alive because of mine.

Go tubeless and refresh your sealant 2x a year with a quality sealant like Stan’s or Orange, Flats suck! A dropper seat is GOLD.

Edit to add: Helmets are one and done, if you crash and hit your helmet, throw it away and get a new one.

 

[alpine_troop]

Already lots of good advice being provided, so I’ll just throw in a couple reinforcements. Been riding bikes for 30 years, and I’ve never seen the need to own anything other than a mountain bike. If riding purely for exercise, I have always preferred riding non-roadway paved paths or gravel paths and trails. I will echo many of the others: buy a hard tail mountain bike of the highest quality you can afford, ride it for everything. These days I would look exclusively at 27.5 or 29” wheels (that’s all you’ll find, anyways).

I also strongly recommend buying from a local bike shop. Shop around at ones that carry Giant, Specialized, Trek and other major manufacturers. The big brands offer more depth in their lineup to maximize the value you can get. The relationship with your local bike shop will be valuable for maintenance and repairs unless you have the tools and know how yourself.

Have fun!

 

[Wyobohunter]

Phaseolus… that picture is beautiful.

 

[Phaseolus]

Mag 7 outside of Moab