Let’s talk bicycles…

[commandoNate]

I've typically preferred to go the used bike route. Similar to archery equipment the technology doesn't change all that much from year to year so a 4-5 year old bike that is $1000 might have been a $2500 bike new. But there are wear items in the drivetrain and suspension to look out for. I think there can be good value to be found there, at least there probably was before covid turned outdoor equipment into gold. As far as fitment goes you really just need to make sure you have the correct frame size. If you have a longer torso you can make simple changes like seat position, or even swapping the seat post or stem to accommodate for this. All that being said my first job was in a bicycle shop when I was a teenager. I sold, assembled and later repaired bikes for 4 years. I have no reservations about working on anything bike related except for rebuilding front and rear shocks, I send those out. I think a 29er hardtail would suit you nicely!

The shop where I worked was a Trek dealer and they had a great factory sponsorship deal for the junior race team I competed on in the 90's. I have always been pretty loyal to them and had good experiences with their bikes both road and mountain. Currently riding a 2013 Rumblefish Elite (FS 29er) and I still have my 1996 pro issue Trek 9900 carbon frame hardtail that I raced in high school. Sub 20 lbs. Got a few others floating around, like an SE fat bike, a Santa Cruz dirt jumper and an Intense DH bike all that I bought used. I gave up road bikes when people started texting and driving in the early 2000's. Dirt only, please.

 

[sneaky]

This is a copy/paste from my phone notes. I’m a geek and keep a running list of hunt gear upgrades.

Mountain Bike $1800 - $2500

Requirements
-Simple one x gearing
-Hydraulic disc brakes
-27.5”+ or 29”wheels for traction/braking
-Lightweight (Hard tail)
-Must accommodate rear rack
-Must be painted a flat earth color (easy to hide).

Possibilities
-Specialized Fuse Comp 29
-Specialized Fuse 27.5
-Cannondale Trail SE 3
-Trek Roscoe 7
-Trek Roscoe 8
-Giant XTC SLR 29 2

Cargo rack
-Rock Bros Bike Cargo Rack
-West Biking Bike Carrier Rack, 310 LB

Note: The rear rack is for keeping a small tire pump, tire repair kit and the lock while riding. I may try lashing a quarter on there and/or see if I can find panniers that can accommodate two quarters.

Jamis Deagonslayer checks off most of those boxes on your list. I've got one. If someone rides an XL frame I'd make them a good deal on it, never ride it anymore. 27.5+ and can run 29s with new wheels.

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[Wyobohunter]

Jamis Deagonslayer checks off most of those boxes on your list. I've got one. If someone rides an XL frame I'd make them a good deal on it, never ride it anymore. 27.5+ and can run 29s with new wheels.

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Is it in the classifieds? I’m not looking right now because I just blew my wad on other hunting/backpacking stuff but if you still have it next year I may hit you up.

 

[Clearedhot1]

Thank you all. Between to the two bike shops close to me, my mountain bike choices are Trek, Liv, Giant, and Specialized.


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[JFK]

Fit is important but you’ll get a much better bike for your budget if you get used bike that’s a couple years old. I rode for decades without ever being fitted…it’s not the end of the world. A lot of shops let you demo or rent bikes to try, which might be helpful to dial in what style of bike you like. Only problem is you will fall in love with a high dollar bike and judge everything against it.

 

[Erict]

I ride several thousand miles each year, would do more if it weren't for the snow and salty roads every winter. True road bike and a high end hybrid.

If your "trails" are hard packed or paved in addition to traditional road riding then I'd recommend something like the Trek FX series "hybrid" bikes. A simple change of tires can accomodate a lot of varying surfaces. If more "mountain bike" type trails then a MTB may be more appropriate. Most bicycle shops include a "free" adjustment with purchase of a new bike - ride it for a few weeks and bring it in for any fine tuning necessary.

Nothing wrong with a used bike if you know what size you need and know what to look for.

If you live near a populated area there are likely bicycle "clubs" that have weekly rides for every skill level - newcomers are often apprehensive the first few rides but you can learn a lot from riding with others.

When it comes time to get out the wrenches, PARK TOOL is an excellent online resource for repairs, adjustments, etc.

Good luck.

 

[Matthunts8]

What a great discussion! A must file for me!


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[sneaky]

Is it in the classifieds? I’m not looking right now because I just blew my wad on other hunting/backpacking stuff but if you still have it next year I may hit you up.

No, it's not in the classifieds, just sitting here. It's -21 here tonight, not biking weather lol

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[Clearedhot1]

A week ago I did not even know what a “29er” was. Thanks to all the info above, I ended up finding a local used deal on a hardtail Trek Xcaliber 8. It’s a 2015, 19.5”, and the seller was the original owner and had all paperwork. One flaw: It has a dime size scuff on the pedal. Guy said he put about 50mi on it and then it hung. Guy threw in a quad leg maintenance stand and Swagman pickup truck brace as part of the deal ($500 total). If this turns into an addiction, I’ll likely follow up with a fit test and upgrade. Looking forward to spring—Thank you all again.


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[TheGDog]

Define your goals for the bike with a little more detail. Is a hardtail with a decent front suspension enough for you? Or do you need Suspension front and back?

For the tires the bike will sport... since you said 50/50, I'd recommend the Continental "Traffic" tires. Have them on my Specialized HardRock hardtail, that I've had since '92, and they kick butt for all around use! Very trail-worthy too! But are designed to work on street too and have closer spacing on the knobs in the central area of the tread so low rolling resistance when droning on asphalt, and won't wear-down the knobbies super fast such as you'd get with like... a WTB Velociraptor tire. But on the sides... they're spread-out to help grab while cornering in dirt.

If you're talking a rig for hauling ass downhill... without going to like Gazzaladi's or FatTire bikes... the Panaracers kick-butt and grab like crazy, and are available in pretty wide widths that still fit on regular width rims. But that's a sticky compound that you can't ride on street with or it wears down in nothing flat.

If you're not going to be doing any jumps or drop-offs and strictly cross-country type duties when off-road, you'd probably be fine with just about any hardtail bike that's designed and intended to be used with a front-suspension. Entry-level or Cross-country forks give ya like 80mm of travel (about 3in).

Other than that... I'd just say look at the shifting components the bike comes with. The nicer the shifting components, the more the cost goes up.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and if any downhill trail lines will be undertaken by you on the bike, you really should look into getting Hydros for the disc brakes. They make stopping an easy 1-finger kind of deal.

 

[peterk123]

Man, all this bike talk has me all excited to ride again. You guys are killing me. My ride. .........

 

[mtnbiker208]

Wednesdays ride

 

[Extrapale]

I bought a Salsa Rangefinder. I am pretty big, and that limited my selections. It's been solid except I have been having chain problems. Could just be me, but I have broken 2 of them in 18 months.

I weigh a lot, pull a trailer, and have lots of pedal power. I am considering dropping down to a 7 speed gear set to get a beefier chain. It's a 10 speed Shimano set now.

I use it exclusively for hunting and walking the dog.

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