Let's See Your Semi-Custom Tikka Builds

[Lawnboi]

Yeah I prefer to have whatever fasteners on the non bolt side to make sure it doesn't interfere with cycling or ejection, but the slant seems to be backwards to me. I'm not sure which way I would mount it.

So is the Spuhr hunting line really the end all be all of Tikka mounts?

I don’t think so. They are nice. That said I think a system that utilizes the dovetail that is already built into the action is ideal. I never had a problem with a lugged picatinny and rings either. Either of those I’d take any day over a direct mount talley or Hawkins ring that is only being held with 4 little screws.

What was strange to me with the spuhr is the tactical mount is almost backwards as far as the mounting plate. Neither mount interferes with ejection for me. The tactical mount made sense for me as I’ll likely be swapping the scope back over to my match rifle come spring, unless my wife lets me buy another scope in the mean time.

 

[silverbullet555]

Iv got a couple mcmillan tikka inlet stocks and a manners mini chassis stock, along with another manners on order. I load for a couple more tikkas with a mesa stock and another mcmillan.

I saw your other thread and if I were you I’d order an eh1tk from manners with their factory bottom metal mini chassis and an ultra lite cheek piece. Manners has the mini chassis down for tikka, my match rifle is incredibly repeatable going in and out of it.

I bought both of my mcmillan stocks with the idea that I would shoot, and bed if I felt I needed to. Neither of the stocks is needed with both rifles totaling over 1500 rounds on them since the new stocks, producing consistent and repeatable results.

I would not buy a mesa or AG till they figure out their new molds. The inlet is goofy, the screws barely capture the action and specifically the mesa is the poorest design Iv used in terms of controlling muzzle rise.

If you have any more questions about the above let me know.

Iv got a couple mcmillan tikka inlet stocks and a manners mini chassis stock, along with another manners on order. I load for a couple more tikkas with a mesa stock and another mcmillan.

I saw your other thread and if I were you I’d order an eh1tk from manners with their factory bottom metal mini chassis and an ultra lite cheek piece. Manners has the mini chassis down for tikka, my match rifle is incredibly repeatable going in and out of it.

I bought both of my mcmillan stocks with the idea that I would shoot, and bed if I felt I needed to. Neither of the stocks is needed with both rifles totaling over 1500 rounds on them since the new stocks, producing consistent and repeatable results.

I would not buy a mesa or AG till they figure out their new molds. The inlet is goofy, the screws barely capture the action and specifically the mesa is the poorest design Iv used in terms of controlling muzzle rise.

If you have any more questions about the above let me know.

Do you know the max OAL that the chassis will take? This will be for a 280ai.

 

[Lawnboi]

Do you know the max OAL that the chassis will take? This will be for a 280ai.

The mini chassis that runs factory tikka mags will take whatever a long action mag gives you. 3.4ish or something like that. For aics mags it would be a no go as they only have short as an option. If I wanted more than 3.4” I’d probably end up building on a different platform.

 

[silverbullet555]

The mini chassis that runs factory tikka mags will take whatever a long action mag gives you. 3.4ish or something like that. For aics mags it would be a no go as they only have short as an option. If I wanted more than 3.4” I’d probably end up building on a different platform.

Thank you for entertaining my questions.

Benefits of mini chassis verses not and perhaps using aftermarket bottom metal.? Does the mini chassis just provide a more stable and consistent mount for the receiver?

 

[Lawnboi]

Thank you for entertaining my questions.

Benefits of mini chassis verses not and perhaps using aftermarket bottom metal.? Does the mini chassis just provide a more stable and consistent mount for the receiver?

It’s all metal on metal, and dosnt require a bed job for most. Instead of pillars your looking at a block of aluminum that’s going to house the screws and recoil lug. The factory mini chassis they make will take factory bottom plastic or metal if you go aftermarket.

The biggest positive is you don’t have to have it bed. Also if you’re looking for a little extra weight it will add it without throwing off balance.

 

[ericwh]

Cut to ~18.5" and threaded 1/2-28.

 

[silverbullet555]

It’s all metal on metal, and dosnt require a bed job for most. Instead of pillars your looking at a block of aluminum that’s going to house the screws and recoil lug. The factory mini chassis they make will take factory bottom plastic or metal if you go aftermarket.

The biggest positive is you don’t have to have it bed. Also if you’re looking for a little extra weight it will add it without throwing off balance.

Thank you. Now I understand the chassis is not replacing the bottom metal, but rather giving mountain points that are more rigid and stronger than without.

I do need to add up the weight of my components to see if I am going to be happy where it comes out. I'm trying to hit a sweet spot where it is good to shoot, but also not too heavy to lug around the mountains like we do.

Side question, still undecided on the need for adjustable cheek piece. It adds a fair amount of weight in a spot that may not add a ton of value other than it would offset suppressor weight. Thoughts on those?

 

[Lawnboi]

Thank you. Now I understand the chassis is not replacing the bottom metal, but rather giving mountain points that are more rigid and stronger than without.

I do need to add up the weight of my components to see if I am going to be happy where it comes out. I'm trying to hit a sweet spot where it is good to shoot, but also not too heavy to lug around the mountains like we do.

Side question, still undecided on the need for adjustable cheek piece. It adds a fair amount of weight in a spot that may not add a ton of value other than it would offset suppressor weight. Thoughts on those?

There’s other options for adding height to the stock. If you do go manners they make an ultra lite cheek piece that does not add much weight. Classic hardware is going to add around a pound. Beyond that you can use a stock pack, on my rifle I’m taking out this week it’s a non adjustable stock with a triad tactical stock pack on it. Weighs little, adds height and gives you a pocket for dope card, ammo, and some extra tape. You can also go full caveman and duck tape a chunk of foam on it like some guys do, but I’m assuming that’s not happening on a build your spending some money on.

Iv got an eh1, adjustable game scout and a game warden on hunting rifles now. Without hardware the mcmillan needs rise with any scope. I can use the eh1 with a 44mm bell scope and be okay. 50mm and up I’m looking at adding something to all my stocks. The rifle I’m taking out this week in a mcmillan game warden has a triad stock pack on it to add height.

Sounds like your looking for similar to the rifles I have built. Around 8-10 pounds depending on extra add ons. I do think this is a sweet spot.

Here’s a photo of the stock pack option. Currently kitted, this rifle weighs 10 pounds with bipod, different scope and suppressor.

 

[sndmn11]

Thank you. Now I understand the chassis is not replacing the bottom metal, but rather giving mountain points that are more rigid and stronger than without.

It has been,and would be, hard for me to invest in a stock with pillars or a block, and ignore the plastic bottom metal. I have zero evidence to support my perspective, but I would trust an aluminum bottom metal with either factory or aftermarket stock, more than plastic bottom and a pillar/block stock.

 

[Lawnboi]

It has been,and would be, hard for me to invest in a stock with pillars or a block, and ignore the plastic bottom metal. I have zero evidence to support my perspective, but I would trust an aluminum bottom metal with either factory or aftermarket stock, more than plastic bottom and a pillar/block stock.

You can run a metal bottom metal on it aftermarket of course. Each of my tikkas also has a metal bottom metal, just easier to discern if you say it’s for the factory plastic. That said I agree, I got rid of all the plastic on my tikkas. Metal from the bottom to the action whether pillar or mini chassis was my goal when building

 

[chutinlead]

You can run a metal bottom metal on it aftermarket of course. Each of my tikkas also has a metal bottom metal, just easier to discern if you say it’s for the factory plastic. That said I agree, I got rid of all the plastic on my tikkas. Metal from the bottom to the action whether pillar or mini chassis was my goal when building

Do you run the mountain tactical mags or just factory Tikka mags?

 

[silverbullet555]

There’s other options for adding height to the stock. If you do go manners they make an ultra lite cheek piece that does not add much weight. Classic hardware is going to add around a pound. Beyond that you can use a stock pack, on my rifle I’m taking out this week it’s a non adjustable stock with a triad tactical stock pack on it. Weighs little, adds height and gives you a pocket for dope card, ammo, and some extra tape. You can also go full caveman and duck tape a chunk of foam on it like some guys do, but I’m assuming that’s not happening on a build your spending some money on.

Iv got an eh1, adjustable game scout and a game warden on hunting rifles now. Without hardware the mcmillan needs rise with any scope. I can use the eh1 with a 44mm bell scope and be okay. 50mm and up I’m looking at adding something to all my stocks. The rifle I’m taking out this week in a mcmillan game warden has a triad stock pack on it to add height.

Sounds like your looking for similar to the rifles I have built. Around 8-10 pounds depending on extra add ons. I do think this is a sweet spot.

Here’s a photo of the stock pack option. Currently kitted, this rifle weighs 10 pounds with bipod, different scope and suppressor.
View attachment 340583

I had a stock pack (hornady branded) on my stock tikka 7mm and the bolt contacted it so I took it off when I was at the range. I need to put it back on and adjust it to see if I can make it fit correctly. I'm a lefty so I will look into the triad pack as an option too. Thanks for the continued conversation and Q&A.

 

[Lawnboi]

Do you run the mountain tactical mags or just factory Tikka mags?

Both, aics on my match to rifle as well. Planning on getting a couple waters rifleman mags here too after hunting season.

 

[Lawnboi]

I had a stock pack (hornady branded) on my stock tikka 7mm and the bolt contacted it so I took it off when I was at the range. I need to put it back on and adjust it to see if I can make it fit correctly. I'm a lefty so I will look into the triad pack as an option too. Thanks for the continued conversation and Q&A.

The triad is adjustable all around, you can move it farther back on the stock without difficulty. Mine contacts a bit but dosnt cause any problems where it’s at, That rifle has a short action bolt stop in it.

 

[TwoBrokeShooters]

New to the forum, here is one I just put together.

Started as a t3x lite.
Proof sendero 22" prefit in 6.5 creed.
Mesa precision arms stock.
Tactical works ti handle and carbon knob.
Dnz medium.
Athlon 4-16 midas tac until I save for a razor lht.

Comes in just over 8lbs scoped.

Had it in a grayboe phoenix before and wasnt a fan so its sitting on the bench collecting dust.

 

[zion zig zag]

Question about a semi-custom Tikka build: I have a suppressor in jail. I picked up a t3x in 7mm-08 a while back that I plan on cutting down to 18” and threading. But since I’ll be waiting a while anyway I started toying with the idea of a new stock and carbon barrel. Proof doesn’t make a tikka prefit in an 18” barrel. For that I’d need to pick up one of the blanks in a .284, right? What would a gunsmith have to do to that to have it work with the tikka action?

Second question: Looking at the AG Privateer stock, do they typically need bedding? And finally, outside of any real or perceived benefits of a new stock and carbon barrel, what are the real world weight savings?

 

[archp625]

Question about a semi-custom Tikka build: I have a suppressor in jail. I picked up a t3x in 7mm-08 a while back that I plan on cutting down to 18” and threading. But since I’ll be waiting a while anyway I started toying with the idea of a new stock and carbon barrel. Proof doesn’t make a tikka prefit in an 18” barrel. For that I’d need to pick up one of the blanks in a .284, right? What would a gunsmith have to do to that to have it work with the tikka action?

Second question: Looking at the AG Privateer stock, do they typically need bedding? And finally, outside of any real or perceived benefits of a new stock and carbon barrel, what are the real world weight savings?

Skip all that nonsense and go to Carbonsix barrels. You can order whatever length you want and profile. Mine took a little less than 3 months to get.

 

[Lawnboi]

Question about a semi-custom Tikka build: I have a suppressor in jail. I picked up a t3x in 7mm-08 a while back that I plan on cutting down to 18” and threading. But since I’ll be waiting a while anyway I started toying with the idea of a new stock and carbon barrel. Proof doesn’t make a tikka prefit in an 18” barrel. For that I’d need to pick up one of the blanks in a .284, right? What would a gunsmith have to do to that to have it work with the tikka action?

Second question: Looking at the AG Privateer stock, do they typically need bedding? And finally, outside of any real or perceived benefits of a new stock and carbon barrel, what are the real world weight savings?

You will not likely save any weight. Minimal if any. We are talking about rifles that are coming off the shelf at 6lbs. There’s not much to be saved without some serious change, or serious compromise IMO. I think you do get more function, such as being able to add a suppressor, and not necessarily in the privateer, but another stock you can get something a little easier to get behind. No way I’d spend the money on a sporter style stock to fix the Tupperware factory.

You can do a normal proof blank however the shoulder is going to be a hair bigger on the barrel than factory. Proof makes their prefits with a thinner shank for this reason. I don’t believe they are making tikka blanks any longer. I have 2 tikkas with 1.25” shanks and as long as your barrel channel is cut correctly it’s not a big deal. You also don’t even need to go carbon if you don’t want at that length, just pick a contour that will get you enough diameter for what your looking for.

As stated above there are others making tikka prefits. Whether you want that, or you want to have someone chamber you a blank is up to you.

 

[HighUintas]

You will not likely save any weight. Minimal if any. We are talking about rifles that are coming off the shelf at 6lbs. There’s not much to be saved without some serious change, or serious compromise IMO. I think you do get more function, such as being able to add a suppressor, and not necessarily in the privateer, but another stock you can get something a little easier to get behind. No way I’d spend the money on a sporter style stock to fix the Tupperware factory.

You can do a normal proof blank however the shoulder is going to be a hair bigger on the barrel than factory. Proof makes their prefits with a thinner shank for this reason. I don’t believe they are making tikka blanks any longer. I have 2 tikkas with 1.25” shanks and as long as your barrel channel is cut correctly it’s not a big deal. You also don’t even need to go carbon if you don’t want at that length, just pick a contour that will get you enough diameter for what your looking for.

As stated above there are others making tikka prefits. Whether you want that, or you want to have someone chamber you a blank is up to you.

For your tikkas with 1.25 shanks... The shank is going to be noticeably larger than the action face where the bevels are, right? Do you have a picture of that? I've got a barrel blank coming with a 1.25 shank and I've been wondering if I could stand the look of it if I were to leave it at that diameter

 

[Lawnboi]

For your tikkas with 1.25 shanks... The shank is going to be noticeably larger than the action face where the bevels are, right? Do you have a picture of that? I've got a barrel blank coming with a 1.25 shank and I've been wondering if I could stand the look of it if I were to leave it at that diameter

I do. My carbon and match rifle both have 1.25” shanks and there are many pictures of them in this thread. But here’s one if you don’t want to go looking. You can notice it if you really look. I could care less if I got a blank with a smaller shank or not. I do know for steel blanks some smiths will turn them down.