Let's See Your Semi-Custom Tikka Builds

[SOIHUNT]

18” barrel shoot it with a suppressor..
2968 fts (135 Hunter Classic) I’ve taken it to 800 yds 3”— 4 shot group still working on other loads.

 

[Antares]

Not quite sure yet. People rave about the swept knob so we will see. Iv got a couple other different handles, my favorite so far is still the factory with a CTR plastic ball on it. This sterk handle feels nice though, and the quality blows the mountain tactical handles I have out of the water.

Is the CTR knob the same one they put on the Roughtech? I have a Roughtech and I like the big plastic knob.

 

[Lawnboi]

Gotchya, I too have grown fond of the ctr knob on the factory handle but I don’t have much to compare it to

I plan to move the knob over to my prs gun come spring and then decide. I don’t shoot the gun it’s on enough but wanted to play with it.

 

[Lawnboi]

Is the CTR knob the same one they put on the Roughtech? I have a Roughtech and I like the big plastic knob.

I believe so, just the plastic deal that goes on the end of the factory handle

 

[J300UM]

Just got this one put together for my son.
chambered in 243 win
22” Carbon Six 8t
McMillan Game Hunter stock
Ti Pro 1 brake
Area 419 rail
New trigger spring set at 2 lbs
Haven’t started old development yet but I’ve got enough 105 VLDs and RL26 to kill the barrel. We’ll see if it like that combo.

 

[silverbullet555]

Question on stocks from Manners, McMillan, etc.

Do you bed the actions with those stocks or is their design such that the actions isn't bedded?

 

[J300UM]

I bedded the 2 I’ve built. A friend of mine has built a couple as well and he didn’t bed either. They both shoot phenomenally.

 

[Lawnboi]

Question on stocks from Manners, McMillan, etc.

Do you bed the actions with those stocks or is their design such that the actions isn't bedded?

Iv got a couple mcmillan tikka inlet stocks and a manners mini chassis stock, along with another manners on order. I load for a couple more tikkas with a mesa stock and another mcmillan.

I saw your other thread and if I were you I’d order an eh1tk from manners with their factory bottom metal mini chassis and an ultra lite cheek piece. Manners has the mini chassis down for tikka, my match rifle is incredibly repeatable going in and out of it.

I bought both of my mcmillan stocks with the idea that I would shoot, and bed if I felt I needed to. Neither of the stocks is needed with both rifles totaling over 1500 rounds on them since the new stocks, producing consistent and repeatable results.

I would not buy a mesa or AG till they figure out their new molds. The inlet is goofy, the screws barely capture the action and specifically the mesa is the poorest design Iv used in terms of controlling muzzle rise.

If you have any more questions about the above let me know.

 

[chutinlead]

Has anyone had a tikka bolt DLC, Nitrided, or Cerakoted? Did you like it, regret it, didn't change anything? The action I bought is off one of their alpine veil rifles and was looking at getting the action/barrel/rings all cerakoted to match. Wondering what to do with the bolt/bolt handle.

 

[Lawnboi]

Has anyone had a tikka bolt DLC, Nitrided, or Cerakoted? Did you like it, regret it, didn't change anything? The action I bought is off one of their alpine veil rifles and was looking at getting the action/barrel/rings all cerakoted to match. Wondering what to do with the bolt/bolt handle.

Iv gotten 2 cerakoted, full barreled actions including the bolt. One was done by hells canyon and is gritty as shit. The other was done by LRI and is as smooth now as it was prior to coating. I wouldn’t just send it to anyone to coat it. If I were to buy another tikka tomorrow I’d get it fully coated by LRI again or leave the bolt and coat the action and barrel. The tikka bolts don’t rust easily but their stainless actions rust by looking at them.

Another tikka I loaded for was also coated by LRI, that one too functions very smooth, maybe a hair less smooth than factory bare but not much.

 

[TBoschma]

I just put a factory take 6.5 PRC veil in a XLR chassis and the ely precision spring so far I’m pretty impressed. I’ve got more load development to do but its shooting pretty good touch on the heavy side I added about a pound and 8 ounces with this chassis. I’ve got another build in the hopper right now it’ll be much lighter and shorter in 6.5 creed.

 

[aggie_2010]

What's a relatively inexpensive barrel vice you guys recommend?

I bought a tikka receive with the barrel removed, so I will only have to put the new one on. My local smith is 8+ months out on all work some I’m going to install my profit barrel myself.

 

[gunny101]

Which tally mounts do i buy? do i buy an moa rail? what height do the mounts need to be? just lost and new to this and looking for some advice?

 

[chutinlead]

Iv gotten 2 cerakoted, full barreled actions including the bolt. One was done by hells canyon and is gritty as shit. The other was done by LRI and is as smooth now as it was prior to coating. I wouldn’t just send it to anyone to coat it. If I were to buy another tikka tomorrow I’d get it fully coated by LRI again or leave the bolt and coat the action and barrel. The tikka bolts don’t rust easily but their stainless actions rust by looking at them.

Another tikka I loaded for was also coated by LRI, that one too functions very smooth, maybe a hair less smooth than factory bare but not much.

I only live 1.5 hours from LRI so it might be worth a phone call and a road trip at some point this winter. Did they coat the inside bolt raceways when they cerakoted your tikkas? Did it make it any tighter? I was more or less just looking to unify all the finishes on all the independent parts except possibly the bottom metal. It's matte black and I don't feel like doing the mags either.

 

[sram9102]

Sent mine off to WTO for a switch lug setup.
XLR Element 4.0
SWFA 10x in Sportsmatch highs
Carbon 6 22 creed barrel
Factory 6.5 creed barrel

 

[Lawnboi]

I only live 1.5 hours from LRI so it might be worth a phone call and a road trip at some point this winter. Did they coat the inside bolt raceways when they cerakoted your tikkas? Did it make it any tighter? I was more or less just looking to unify all the finishes on all the independent parts except possibly the bottom metal. It's matte black and I don't feel like doing the mags either.

They coated the inside of the action as well including the raceways. They have some pretty in depth stuff on coating and the how an why they do it without making your action gummy, it can be found on their Facebook, site and there’s some reading over on snipers hide. I drove all the way from WI for drop off and pickup and they were good to work with. They are quick too. I’m picking up a t1x I dropped off a while ago on my way out to Montana this week.

It’s not any tighter. Like mentioned above, I have a couple coated rifles and I can say after a couple hundred rounds my 223 is as smooth as it was previously prior to coating, which surprised me considering my carbon rifle HCA did has a gritty, Tight feeling to it. I’m actually curious if LRI could strip off the previous cerakote and re apply when rebarrel time comes. My 223 I also had chopped and threaded while it was there.

You can also have your bolt fluted if you desire, my buddy ended up having his done but I skipped it.

I didn’t have the mags or bottom metal coated either. I think my guns look pretty nice coated.

 

[TBoschma]

They coated the inside of the action as well including the raceways. They have some pretty in depth stuff on coating and the how an why they do it without making your action gummy, it can be found on their Facebook, site and there’s some reading over on snipers hide. I drove all the way from WI for drop off and pickup and they were good to work with. They are quick too. I’m picking up a t1x I dropped off a while ago on my way out to Montana this week.

It’s not any tighter. Like mentioned above, I have a couple coated rifles and I can say after a couple hundred rounds my 223 is as smooth as it was previously prior to coating, which surprised me considering my carbon rifle HCA did has a gritty, Tight feeling to it. I’m actually curious if LRI could strip off the previous cerakote and re apply when rebarrel time comes. My 223 I also had chopped and threaded while it was there.

You can also have your bolt fluted if you desire, my buddy ended up having his done but I skipped it.

I didn’t have the mags or bottom metal coated either. I think my guns look pretty nice coated.

Man I have a barreled action at the local shop here getting coated maybe today.... I had LRI do the fluting and cerakote on the bolt. hopefully it does not get all gritty, ill report back here my experience the action and bolt was super smooth with just the bolt coated, but who knows now that i am doing the action.

 

[chutinlead]

Patriot brown has a nice glow in the sun. Still my favorite tikka.

View attachment 323332

I went back a couple pages and found your Tikka with the Spuhr mount. Isn't that kind of backward for a righty? From what I gathered, the split was supposed to not obstruct the parallax or elevation knob while you're on the gun.

Also I do have to agree with the Patriot brown. Looks very nice and would pair well with the paint job on my Grayboe Phoenix.

 

[Lawnboi]

I went back a couple pages and found your Tikka with the Spuhr mount. Isn't that kind of backward for a righty? From what I gathered, the split was supposed to not obstruct the parallax or elevation knob while you're on the gun.

Also I do have to agree with the Patriot brown. Looks very nice and would pair well with the paint job on my Grayboe Phoenix.

I think I could flip it but it looked right the way it went on. The caps are pretty low profile to begin with compared to what I was using with a picatinny rail. The elevation knob is very visible as is the windage.

 

[chutinlead]

I think I could flip it but it looked right the way it went on. The caps are pretty low profile to begin with compared to what I was using with a picatinny rail. The elevation knob is very visible as is the windage.

Yeah I prefer to have whatever fasteners on the non bolt side to make sure it doesn't interfere with cycling or ejection, but the slant seems to be backwards to me. I'm not sure which way I would mount it.

So is the Spuhr hunting line really the end all be all of Tikka mounts?