Left handed shooter/Nock right impact

[coohio1854]

Hey guys I’m shooting groups at 20. Points impacting left. I’m shooting straight on.

28” draw. 70lbs

Easton FMJ 340 - 27.75”from throat to back of point. Total length is about 28.125”. Arrow weight is 525gr. 16 grain insert and 150gr. Field point. I also have 125’s and 100’s I have not shot groups with yet.

I’m just sighting in and testing different weights for next year. I bought this bow at the beginning of the season and want to dial in arrows for a full offseason before I hunt with it.

Picture for reference


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[Mighty Mouse]

I didn't see a question in there, but nock right flight (which also manifests as bareshaft hitting left of fletched shaft and broadhead hitting left of field point) generally indicates that you need to either shim your cams to the right, twist your right yoke leg/untwist left yoke leg (if your bow has static yokes), or shift your rest to the left.

I'm always leery of making adjustments based on angle of entry in a target though; inconsistencies in the target medium can skew the aparent angle. I would keep shooting bareshafts and make adjustments based on point of impact relative to fletched shafts.

 

[coohio1854]

I didn't see a question in there, but nock right flight (which also manifests as bareshaft hitting left of fletched shaft and broadhead hitting left of field point) generally indicates that you need to either shim your cams to the right, twist your right yoke leg/untwist left yoke leg (if your bow has static yokes), or shift your rest to the left.

I'm always leery of making adjustments based on angle of entry in a target though; inconsistencies in the target medium can skew the aparent angle. I would keep shooting bareshafts and make adjustments based on point of impact relative to fletched shafts.

Haha yes sorry I forgot the ask the question I had. Thank you for reminding me! The bow is a VXR 31.5. I was wondering if my arrows were under spined for this setup. I just recently had the bow tuned. He went through everything for me. Timed the cams, set center shot, mounted a new sight. When I paper tuned with him there was a low tear and most likely it was me. I had these FMJ’s lying around. I haven’t ordered any other arrows yet so I’m just wondering if I should stay with 350 or move down to 250/300 based on point weight? Like you said though it could be the target.

Ideally 150-175 up front with 470-500gr total weight. Mostly stand hunting for whitetail.


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[Mighty Mouse]

Haha yes sorry I forgot the ask the question I had. Thank you for reminding me! The bow is a VXR 31.5. I was wondering if my arrows were under spined for this setup. I just recently had the bow tuned. He went through everything for me. Timed the cams, set center shot, mounted a new sight. When I paper tuned with him there was a low tear and most likely it was me. I had these FMJ’s lying around. I haven’t ordered any other arrows yet so I’m just wondering if I should stay with 350 or move down to 250/300 based on point weight? Like you said though it could be the target.

Ideally 150-175 up front with 470-500gr total weight. Mostly stand hunting for whitetail.


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You'll likely get a variety of opinions on proper spine and if/how it affects your tune. IMO 340-350 is a bit on the weak side at your specs but close enough that it should work.

I'll add that I personally don't think the conventional wisdom of "left tear = arrow is too weak, right tear = arrow is too stiff" (for a right-handed shooter, vice-versa for a lefty) is applicable to a compound bow shot with a mechanical release. For a traditional bow shot with fingers, I can understand why a too weak or stiff arrow would cause a tear in a particular direction. For a compound bow not influenced by fingers on the string with a cut-out riser that allows the arrow to remain in line with the string path throughout the shot, I can't conceive of why an overly weak arrow would leave the bow nock left and an overly stiff arrow would leave nock right (for a RHS). In my messing around shooting significantly over/underspined arrows (relative to what the charts recommend) out of various compounds, I haven't witnessed these purported horizontal tear patterns. I think most compounds can handle a wide range of spines, so when I see a tuning issue, I assume it's either something needing adjustment on the bow or a problem with the shooter's form. If I'm within ±.050" of recommended "optimal" spine, I don't give spine another thought.

If you want to test if/how spine might be affecting your arrow flight, try shooting some lighter points or reducing your draw weight and see what happens. Also, a bow tuned to shoot perfect bullet holes through paper may still need some adjustment when bareshaft or broadhead tuning.

 

[coohio1854]

You'll likely get a variety of opinions on proper spine and if/how it affects your tune. IMO 340-350 is a bit on the weak side at your specs but close enough that it should work.

I'll add that I personally don't think the conventional wisdom of "left tear = arrow is too weak, right tear = arrow is too stiff" (for a right-handed shooter, vice-versa for a lefty) is applicable to a compound bow shot with a mechanical release. For a traditional bow shot with fingers, I can understand why a too weak or stiff arrow would cause a tear in a particular direction. For a compound bow not influenced by fingers on the string with a cut-out riser that allows the arrow to remain in line with the string path throughout the shot, I can't conceive of why an overly weak arrow would leave the bow nock left and an overly stiff arrow would leave nock right (for a RHS). In my messing around shooting significantly over/underspined arrows (relative to what the charts recommend) out of various compounds, I haven't witnessed these purported horizontal tear patterns. I think most compounds can handle a wide range of spines, so when I see a tuning issue, I assume it's either something needing adjustment on the bow or a problem with the shooter's form. If I'm within ±.050" of recommended "optimal" spine, I don't give spine another thought.

If you want to test if/how spine might be affecting your arrow flight, try shooting some lighter points or reducing your draw weight and see what happens. Also, a bow tuned to shoot perfect bullet holes through paper may still need some adjustment when bareshaft or broadhead tuning.

Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. I’m sure it has everything to do with form. This is why I’ll be hunting with a crossbow until next season. Practice and tinkering until I get it right. I ordered other arrows in 300 and 250 just to see what shoots the best. I’m gonna take it back to the shop with new arrows and see what he thinks as well.

Thanks!


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[OR Archer]

I concur with what MM has said. Slightly weak but will tune. I’ve tuned similar setups with good results.

 

[Samdemarais]

Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. I’m sure it has everything to do with form. This is why I’ll be hunting with a crossbow until next season. Practice and tinkering until I get it right. I ordered other arrows in 300 and 250 just to see what shoots the best. I’m gonna take it back to the shop with new arrows and see what he thinks as well.

Thanks!


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You can just take some turns out of your limb bolts and see how that affects it. I would do that and move your rest before you buy all those arrows

 

[coohio1854]

You can just take some turns out of your limb bolts and see how that affects it. I would do that and move your rest before you buy all those arrows

I am in no way an expert but I thought that moving a rest was always the last option? I have been getting arrows here and there on eBay or other sites for cheaper than retail just to play around with. I just want to dial in a weight and spine for right now then eventually get a shafts and build from there.


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[sndmn11]

I would get them together vertically before worrying about laterally. It is very easy to make a booboo in your shooting form, particularly grip pressure and torque, that makes it appear there is a tuning problem when looking at bare shafts.

For me:
1) correct vertical disparity
2) shoot ten yards farther
3) shoot ten yards farther

 

[Samdemarais]

I am in no way an expert but I thought that moving a rest was always the last option? I have been getting arrows here and there on eBay or other sites for cheaper than retail just to play around with. I just want to dial in a weight and spine for right now then eventually get a shafts and build from there.


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Micro moving the rest. Maybe 1/16” either way. Like I said set it to 13/16”, and if your arrows aren’t flying true and you think you are weak you can just take turns out of your limb bolts until they fly perfect. If you don’t see a change and you are getting consistent results then you could try bumping the rest slightly. If that doesn’t work then you could shim the cams.