Knife handle build a long

[sndmn11]

I sometimes get PMs from folks wanting to make their own handles for knives. I am doing one for @rootacres from this thread https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/custom-knife-handle.293625/

Since this one is fancy and special I am taking my time and that allows me to take pictures and document the steps. Normally, especially with cork, I just have a plan together in my head and my process flows to the point I forget to take pictures, lay things out, etc.

Parts needed:
-blade @feanor delivered magnacut
-scales/handle block this is a custom set from https://www.woodbymohler.com/category/segmented-knife-scales with an ivory sent to him by @rootacres
-double sided carpet tape (very mandatory)
-masking tape (optional)
-pins or in this case we are using bolts
-drill bit; in this case a fancy stepped bit for our bolts


I use the carpet tape to stick the scales together so that everything lines up. This matters a bunch when there are segments like a multipiece scale that need to line up for aesthetics.


I tape the down side of the scales so my drill bit doesn't tear material out. This isn't a big deal with thick scales, but these are close to finished thickness.


I pestered @rootacres about where he wanted the tooth, pointed up or down, which way he wanted the blade, etc. He settled on this.


There wasn't much difference in the height of the tang and the height of the window. I wanted to make sure the wood reveal on spine and belly were symmetrical and also the top/bottom of the window parallel with the spine, so that is the purpose of the top/bottom tape "train tracks". I normally don't, but this time I covered the blade in tape in case I dropped it.

The holes in the tang are 1/4" so I used a 1/4" brad point to mark the center of my fore and aft holes on the top of my scale sandwich.


I then used a 3/16" brad point to drill; that's the small diameter of the stepped tang nuts. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP! If your holes are not aligned then fitting becomes a bear with the likely hood of things getting misaligned and sometimes scales breaking.


These holes will act as a pilot for the stepped drill bit which is 3/16" : 1/4"

I eye ball the depth of the stepped bit on my drill press allowing for the head of the screw to have substance, still be sunk under the material, and not be too deep to bottom out against the other screw. Then I set my drill press stop. You can always drill deeper, so error on the side of top shallow.


I want a little bit of the screw stick out the tang side of the scale, but not much.

 

[sndmn11]

The thickness of the tang was just a scoosh smaller than the thickness of the stepped nut so I had to flip the scales over and just barely touch the holes with my stepped drill bit. I also used a Dremel to polish up the holes in the tang and give me a little bit of wiggle room of alignment. After doing so my scales for together with no daylight between them and the blade. This is far easier to do at this point than later on because everything is still flat and square.


I double sided taped the two halves together, traced out my blade, marked my pommel shape, and trimmed up the excess.


This is the easiest point to sand the pommel shape, and I also like sanding down to the traced outline of the handle. For me, it's easier to handle the block without the blade in it. I typically would sand away all the black, but knowing there was little clearance for the ivory window, I left the tracing.


I then assemble the scales and blade and sand flush.


Shaping a round contour is much easier than it would seem. Normally I sand to the thickness I want, but these scales were already correct. The next step is to sand 45deg angles to make a hexagon, then rolling the handle to round it out. I taped over the ivory window so I wouldn't sand into the tooth, but the remaining tape gives a good indicator of what I took away and what I left to make it round-ish.


From there I hand sand and that knocks down the angles and high spots easily so it is actually round. I wet sand to 1500 grit then use some micromesh wet pads to 15000.

 

[sndmn11]

I then disassemble and clean up any adhesive and dust with acetone and let things dry out.



Normally I use foil tape for ducts, but masking tape is adequate. I lay in a micro Paracord a long the edge and tape a few layers on the blade only. I added one more layer of blue tape to two layers of white.


Orange was requested for the sheath, and I got in the toaster oven before Mother's day started up. I keep the temp low to start and progressively turn it up to 325ish on air fry. If you start off high it tends to make the kydex/boltaron shrink drastically and roll up.


I use a heat gun on the foam to warm it up.


Floppy kydex goes on the foam, knife in middle, fold the kydex over, foam on top, and the I use two boards and some clamps to compress.

 

[sndmn11]

Then we wait for things to cool.


After a Chike coffee protein drink and some breakfast tacos the kydex has cooled to where it isn't flexible, but is still warm. I put them in the freezer to make sure the shape sets.


Mark for my rivet and drain holes.


1/4" holes for the rivets and 3/16" holes to drain. It is a really good idea to chamfer the blade side.kf the drain holes, especially when you need a new bit.


I then cut down with tin snips, and whack the rivets in.


When sanding down to fit, I always work on the mouth first. Once I get it close to where I want, I use the Dremel with a cone and chamfer the interior of the mouth. You want to work slow fitting because you can chip scales easily if you force things. I also leave the tape on the blade and blow any dust out of the sheath before putting the knife in.


Once I get a firm release and snap in, with the tape on, then I take it off and finish shaping the sheath.


All set, and then I clean the sheath up with acetone.


Disassemble and polish in tung oil with some 3M 10000 sheets, then wait!

 

[sndmn11]

As the tung oil was drying I sharpened the blade up. Once the oil was dry, I hand buffed with a 1 micron 3M paper, and then applied another thin coat with the buffing paper. It dried very quick which let me know we were all set.

 

[Louro]

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Scoot]

I think you've done this a time or two! Very impressive.

 

[CCooper]

Nice work as always!

 

[sndmn11]

I think you've done this a time or two! Very impressive.

I was very nervous with this one because of the one and done scales.

 

[crrakcrrak]

Great work, Beautiful handle and i love the blue lining BTW.

 

[sndmn11]

Great work, Beautiful handle and i love the blue lining BTW.

That was a @rootacres and the Ryan at https://www.woodbymohler.com choice.

 

[Decker9]

Very nice work!!!

 

[sndmn11]

Very nice work!!!

Child's play for a stock builder guy!

 

[Beendare]

Sndmn

 

[Clarktar]

Well done!!!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Decker9]

Child's play for a stock builder guy!

Only on a larger scale piece!! Thats quite the process in itself to build a solid functional blade, that also looks stellar!! I like everything about what you did there!