Kitchen Sink Tuning

[Moose Drool]

I have made a few adjustments and I think my broadheads are getting closer to my field points, but I am still not satisfied. Not sure if these have helped but this is what I have changed so far. Adjusted my string loop from 3/4 inch to 1/2 inch(felt like it was a little long and my elbow was a little behind my head). Lowered by bow poundage 65 to reduce my arrow speed(should be in the 280s now according to Archers Advantage). Lowered my rest to 1/16 inch, it is still pretty much covering the berger hole. When I lowered the rest I noticed that it released some of the tension that the drop away rest had on the cable.

Can too much tension from a drop away rest cause problems with your bows tune? I am thinking about switching to the Hamskea versa rest so I can use it in limb driven mode.

 

[Moose Drool]

Hamskea versa rest is on its way. How are you guys setting yours up? Top or bottom limb? I am using a tightspot quiver is that makes a difference.

 

[OR Archer]

Can too much tension from a drop away rest cause problems with your bows tune? I am thinking about switching to the Hamskea versa rest so I can use it in limb driven mode.

Yes it can. It can affect the cam timing. When tying in a drop away rest to a cable I will use the same kind of knot used in a string loop. I will then tie a few knots of serving just above the draw cord. I will then draw the bow and let the draw cord slip into its proper position at full draw. I can begin the tuning process from here. Once I have what I consider a good tune on the bow I will then serve about a 1/2" above the draw cord to ensure that it can't slip. And just for added extra security I also tie a few knots around the draw cord knots to make sure it doesn't come undone.

Hope that all made sense haha

 

[Chesapeake]

After I do the Kitchen sink tuning where you shoot the string at 5 feet and 10 yards or more, then my broadheads hit with my fieldpoints, my rest and sight windage are set. But I still get a slight right tear, I'm lefty. So then I do the yolk tuning to get rid of that tear.
I broadhead tune with a 2 blade Magnus 125. I figured it as being good for tuning as I expect it to plane more than the Slicktricks I plan to hunt with.
I set center shot at 13/16, and arrow covering berger hole to start. Knock tied in level. This is dang neer perfect on my bow.
Anytime I move the rest up or down I adjust the rest cord (it was a pain with QAD and Code Red, its a cinch with the Limbdriver).

I shoot a Maxxis 35 (62#), Axis 340, 125 point, Limbdriver Pro-v rest (Had QAD and Code Red before). I'm newish to compounds so take my comments as a "what works for him" and not as coming from a pro.

 

[Tilzbow]

Ryan,

I've got the Versa Rest on a Carbon Matrix with a Tight Spot and had to set it up on connected to the lower limb since there wasn't clearance from the rest to the upper limb through or around the quiver.

It's the best rest I've ever seen or used and I can find anything I don't like about it.

 

[fire arrow]

Where were your BH hitting in relation to your field points?

 

[Moose Drool]

Broadheads were hitting high and left of field points. Gonna give the hamskea conneced to the bottom limb a try this week when I get it. Thanks for the tips guys. I will post up my results this weekend.

 

[Moose Drool]

Got the hamskea set up. It is definitely different than the Qad that I have been using for years, but I like it. If I could only stop my self from tying to flip the rest in the upright position with my thumb. Broadheads were still hitting high and too the left so I raised my nock 1/16 of an inch. Added one twist to the right yoke and removed one twist from the left yoke. That did the trick, shuttle t's were hitting with field points out to 60 yds which is a hugh improvement from when I started. Definitely recommend the kitchen sink tuning method.