Kids rifle manifesto

Just found out in WA state you have to use .24 cal or bigger. Looks like .223 is out of the question for me. What’s your next best option?


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Do you hand load? Do you like to tinker?

If you don't hand load but do like to tinker, a Howa Mini in 6mmARC is what I would do. There's a fair bit about them that I don't love out of the box, but if you want to spend a little time on the stock, magazine, and trigger you can make them into great little rifles.

If you don't like to tinker but do hand load, a Tikka .243 with mild hand loads is a great rifle out of the box and easy to reduce to 6ARC performance/recoil.

If neither, I'd say (though with lower confidence), I'd probably do the Tikka and shoot 90 ELDX precision hunter ammo. It'll be more recoil than what's ideal but not unreasonably so. The fact that it is available with a factory short LOP stock, I'm great magazine, great trigger, etc. Without needing to mess with it to achieve those things is a huge benefit. As stated above, lots of practice with 223 will go a long way toward helping him shoot this rifle well.
 
I’m just looking for something factory and simple to get my guy shooting and comfortable. Comfort and ability to practice, ie economy, is the most important thing for me b


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A 6 ARC Howa with factory ammo is probably the easy button then if he needs to be able to hunt with it in a state that requires a 6mm/243.
 
A 6 ARC Howa with factory ammo is probably the easy button then if he needs to be able to hunt with it in a state that requires a 6mm/243.
Unless something has changed, howa does not offer a short length of pull stock. Cutting down a synthetic stock and fitting a new recoil pad is not a huge project, but not everyone wants to do that. I love the cartridge, and actually really like how the mini that I put together for my kids turned out, but it does not come out of the box in a configuration that I like very much.
 
Just found out in WA state you have to use .24 cal or bigger. Looks like .223 is out of the question for me. What’s your next best option?


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Not as popular on here, but the Ruger American G2 comes with an LOP spacer to make it short and comes threaded with a brake that is easy to swap out for a suppressor. Available in choice of .243, 6 arc, 6 creed and you can get a 1.6 lb kit to put in the stock to reduce more felt recoil. An easy button in my book. I am loving my 6 creed, a pretty good tack driver so far and with the weight kit felt recoil is pretty low. Will get my kid to shoot it this spring/summer once weather is consistently pleasant... and hopefully with a suppressor first before moving up from the .22....

Not claiming better than other suggestions, just another option.
 
Not as popular on here, but the Ruger American G2 comes with an LOP spacer to make it short and comes threaded with a brake that is easy to swap out for a suppressor. Available in choice of .243, 6 arc, 6 creed and you can get a 1.6 lb kit to put in the stock to reduce more felt recoil. An easy button in my book. I am loving my 6 creed, a pretty good tack driver so far and with the weight kit felt recoil is pretty low. Will get my kid to shoot it this spring/summer once weather is consistently pleasant... and hopefully with a suppressor first before moving up from the .22....

Not claiming better than other suggestions, just another option.

How does the Ruger American compare with the Tikka? I only have Tikkas so I’m not really familiar with River quality or performance.


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I am no expert, not even close -- but both seem high quality. Tikka fans will say no comparison, but in store side by side the Tikka bolt is a bit smoother for sure... the rest??? IDK, not much I could tell. Neither of my friends 6.5CM Tikkas shoot tighter groups than my 6mmCM Ruger... thats what counts for me. But none of us are reloaders or shooting a 1000 rds/year either like some folks on here...

Tikka in same price zone isnt threaded or cerekoted if that matters.. (did to me) or come in 6CM from factory - but does come in fast twist .243... Just another option, both seem good to me.

I am not a brand loyal guy, just get what fits my particular need best for a particular situation and budget...
 
How does the Ruger American compare with the Tikka? I only have Tikkas so I’m not really familiar with River quality or performance.


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My experience with the Gen1 is that there is no comparison. Trigger, bolt lift, bolt racking, magazine feeding, magazine seating, all are in a different category of performance from Tikka.

Supposedly the Gen2 has improved on some of those issues, but not all, and stock geometry is terrible.

They shoot fine (or better than fine) groups typically, but all the feeding, function, etc that really shows up during field use really is where the difference lies.

IMO, having owned both, I'll take the function of the Tikka over a slight chambering availability preference and price advantage on the Gen2 RA. The cerakote, fluting, etc do nothing for me given the difference in function. Sweet rims and tint on a Kia do nothing for me.
 
My experience with the Gen1 is that there is no comparison. Trigger, bolt lift, bolt racking, magazine feeding, magazine seating, all are in a different category of performance from Tikka.

Supposedly the Gen2 has improved on some of those issues, but not all, and stock geometry is terrible.

They shoot fine (or better than fine) groups typically, but all the feeding, function, etc that really shows up during field use really is where the difference lies.

IMO, having owned both, I'll take the function of the Tikka over a slight chambering availability preference and price advantage on the Gen2 RA. The cerakote, fluting, etc do nothing for me given the difference in function. Sweet rims and tint on a Kia do nothing for me.
I always find the "rims and tint on a shitty car" comments unhelpful and needlessly dismissive. I think there are better ways to illustrate the differences - even using vehicle analogies... To me threaded from the factory is functional vs extra cost and wait time for threading (especially with short wait times for suppressors right now = long wait for threading)... ceracote is nice if you have had corrosion issues before - so not comparable to bling rims and tint.... more like a good hitch and truck bed liner?-- I don't like the fluting myself but aesthetics are low on my considerations...

The trigger? That is a truck vs SUV question - which type do you prefer? Personally, I like a bladed trigger - especially the extra safety it can give when working with a nervous kid having to adjust positions in the field... I like the accutrigger on my AxisII better because mine is at 2.25lbs instead of just under 3 on the Ruger... I also think an SUV works better for my family than a truck??? So?

I have had zero mag feed or seating issues. bolt lift is maybe a bit stiff, no racking issues. But those things being a bit harder to cycle would be like a rougher ride quality or leather vs cloth seats on a vehicle - how important is a smooth ride? You get there either way. I don't notice it much myself, Tikka is smoother for sure. Still, my Ruger cycles without incident, chamber a round every time with out noticing it. trigger is consistent just half pound more than I ideally would have. goes bang into a tight group...

The Ruger stock butt end is way off, no way around it. I am going to 3d print a straight LOP spacer to improve it, but still that silly drop on bottom side and traditional hunting rifle grip vs vertical.... I do like the grip on the forend and it is stiff enough. Tikka i would need to add an adjustable cheek piece, Ruger I just bought a higher comb riser which is marginally cheaper...
 
I always find the "rims and tint on a shitty car" comments unhelpful and needlessly dismissive. I think there are better ways to illustrate the differences - even using vehicle analogies... To me threaded from the factory is functional vs extra cost and wait time for threading (especially with short wait times for suppressors right now = long wait for threading)... ceracote is nice if you have had corrosion issues before - so not comparable to bling rims and tint.... more like a good hitch and truck bed liner?-- I don't like the fluting myself but aesthetics are low on my considerations...

The trigger? That is a truck vs SUV question - which type do you prefer? Personally, I like a bladed trigger - especially the extra safety it can give when working with a nervous kid having to adjust positions in the field... I like the accutrigger on my AxisII better because mine is at 2.25lbs instead of just under 3 on the Ruger... I also think an SUV works better for my family than a truck??? So?

I have had zero mag feed or seating issues. bolt lift is maybe a bit stiff, no racking issues. But those things being a bit harder to cycle would be like a rougher ride quality or leather vs cloth seats on a vehicle - how important is a smooth ride? You get there either way. I don't notice it much myself, Tikka is smoother for sure. Still, my Ruger cycles without incident, chamber a round every time with out noticing it. trigger is consistent just half pound more than I ideally would have. goes bang into a tight group...

The Ruger stock butt end is way off, no way around it. I am going to 3d print a straight LOP spacer to improve it, but still that silly drop on bottom side and traditional hunting rifle grip vs vertical.... I do like the grip on the forend and it is stiff enough. Tikka i would need to add an adjustable cheek piece, Ruger I just bought a higher comb riser which is marginally cheaper...
The new Tikkas are all threaded, so that resolves that concern.

I’m not a Ruger hater, but there is no comparison between a Tikka and a Ruger American. If you buy a Tikka, you have something worth restocking and rebarreling when your kid gets older. The Ruger will be worth $200 if you can sell it.
 
I always find the "rims and tint on a shitty car" comments unhelpful and needlessly dismissive. I think there are better ways to illustrate the differences - even using vehicle analogies... To me threaded from the factory is functional vs extra cost and wait time for threading (especially with short wait times for suppressors right now = long wait for threading)... ceracote is nice if you have had corrosion issues before - so not comparable to bling rims and tint.... more like a good hitch and truck bed liner?-- I don't like the fluting myself but aesthetics are low on my considerations...
Fair enough... How about that the cerakote and fluting are like when an automotive manufacturer updates body style, new headlights, nicer interior, but carries forward the transmission that's known to crap the bed around 100k miles, and the skinny CV axles that like to break at sharp turning angles. It's mostly aesthetic, slightly functional upgrades that don't address the real world weaknesses of the rifle.

The trigger? That is a truck vs SUV question - which type do you prefer? Personally, I like a bladed trigger - especially the extra safety it can give when working with a nervous kid having to adjust positions in the field... I like the accutrigger on my AxisII better because mine is at 2.25lbs instead of just under 3 on the Ruger... I also think an SUV works better for my family than a truck??? So?
Also fair. I've had a few bladed triggers, and a few good non-bladed (like Tikka factory) and will take the non-bladed every time. I would take a decent bladed trigger over a crappy non-bladed, but I don't know anyone who's shot a Tikka adjusted to the bottom end of its pull weight with factory spring and preferred a Savage or Ruger over that.

I have had zero mag feed or seating issues. bolt lift is maybe a bit stiff, no racking issues. But those things being a bit harder to cycle would be like a rougher ride quality or leather vs cloth seats on a vehicle - how important is a smooth ride? You get there either way. I don't notice it much myself, Tikka is smoother for sure. Still, my Ruger cycles without incident, chamber a round every time with out noticing it. trigger is consistent just half pound more than I ideally would have. goes bang into a tight group...
That's good to hear, my biggest beef with the Gen 1 was the terrible rotary mag. I've read mixed reports on the Gen2, some guys say it's way better but I've seen and heard several guys say there are still substantial issues. I see lots of guys single load on the bench and not test magazine function, then when a follow up shot is needed in the field the problems show up.

Bolt lift and binding are a bigger deal for kids, and it did show up on the Gen 1 as a noticeable difference. Lifting the bolt takes you off target, and running the bolt forward it did bind and take a second try from time to time.

The Ruger stock butt end is way off, no way around it. I am going to 3d print a straight LOP spacer to improve it, but still that silly drop on bottom side and traditional hunting rifle grip vs vertical.... I do like the grip on the forend and it is stiff enough. Tikka i would need to add an adjustable cheek piece, Ruger I just bought a higher comb riser which is marginally cheaper...
Agree, the stock geometry is probably my biggest beef with them. If Ruger did the Gen2, skipped the cerakote and fluting in order to keep it at/near Gen1 price, and copied Rokstok geometry instead of that abomination, I'd have a hard time not picking one up given their new chamberings and the reports of greatly improved magazine function.

At the end of the day, my opinion as someone who's owned both Tikkas and a Ruger American (and handled/shot several more of each that were friends' rifles), the price difference is small for the huge improvement you get with a Tikka. I don't know many (maybe any) folks with both that think the RA is close to as good.
 
splatter paint, cerakote and fluting are an exterior styling update for sure (cerakote has a functional benefit to some small % of folks). But on my sample of 1 the transmission seems much improved as well if the reports on how bad the gen 1 were are true. No issues with the mag or bolt cycling. Not as good as the Tikka side by side for sure, but fully functional and basically not noticed by me in use. (And I hate single loading, harder for me for what ever reason, I have only done it to add 1 more shot to a group or at one range that requires it). I did buy a 5rd Ruger ASIC mag because the included 3 round was annoying for 5 shot groups. Both work without issue for me. but a flush 4 rd would be great - just not the rotary one!

I am amazed at how the majority of stocks on sub $800 hunting rifles take no influence from modern chassis, PRS, Magpul Hunter, MDT Field stock, rokstok designs/geometry and look like they are from grandpa's time when open sights were the default... I am sure Tikka fans wish it would come with something closer to a Rokstok (didnt Rokstok come about to "fix" the Tikka stock?)

My opinion is only from owning one Ruger G2 and a friend's Tikka... no experience with G1 to compare to -- way too small a sample size. But I am very happy with my G2 like my friend is very happy with his Tikka... It really all comes down to the weighting you put on each factor in a decision matrix - there is no perfect on all factors (at least in this price range), just the set of compromises an individual is most comfortable with based on what is most important to them....
 
Good on you!

I am still 100% satisfied with my AB Raptor 6, especially with the reflex mount for cartridges like the .223 and 6mmARC burning under 30 grains of powder.

If you want it to do double duty the Raptor 8 is noticeably better on larger cartridges (even .308 size that difference is substantial).

By reputation (I have not shot them personally) the Diligent Defense Wolf Hunter is great and would save you a couple hundred and the AB A10 would save a couple hundred more. Heavier, but not unreasonably so and still good suppression.

How well does the A10 work mitigating recoil and sound? I like its price point but I also want something that performs well.


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