Is bareshaft tuning a bunch of B.S?

[Txtrophy85]

Finally got my timberhawk custom recurve in and enlisted the help of a seasoned trad archer to get it set up.
Set brace height, installed some silencers and got to shooting, started with 400 spine black eagle instincts with a 125 grain point and 100 grain outsert. 3 hours later, we still could not get it to tune, after going thru 4 different arrow types. One arrow that he liked based on the the tune session was my fatty aluminum 2216’s tipped with 150 grains I use in my bear Kodiak. Darkness fell on us so we couldn’t fully finish but it gave me a good start, albeit was showing a little bit stiff. One thing we fought the entire time was the arrow kicking up off the shelf.
Went out today and shot a 2216 out of the new bow, which is 50-51# at my draw. Probably one of the worst arrow flights I’ve seen. WAY too stiff. Went back today and shot with both the 400 spine instincts and some 500 spine instincts I had laying around, both with 125 grain tips and 100 grain outserts. Pretty identical arrow flight with both. Screw on a 125 grain broadhead and the 400’s with a broadhead are shooting a little to the right (I’m left handed) of the field points. The 500’s fly like darts and broadheads group right with the field points.

Dawned on me I never shot my 2216’s with a broadhead so I grab an arrow and shoot it into the 3D. Perfect shot. Grab a few field point arrows and shoot about 3-4 rounds intermixing the field point arrows with the broadhead tipped arrow and it’s flying right with them. Go and get the bareshaft arrow and shoot it at 10 yards and it hits the target almost sideways.

So I’m left with two bows that shoot arrows tipped with broadheads very well, that don’t do worth a bareshaft and are outside the poundage chart range on spine.

Go figure. I’m convinced traditional archery is a form of sorcery

 

[Warmsy]

I bareshaft tune my arrows- my spine and tip weight don't seem like they should work. I used bareshaft to determine what to weight and spine to settle on. I still occasionally shoot some bareshaft to check my form and release.

I had the problem of the arrow kicking off the shelf -i put a second nocking point below the arrow and that probleml was fixed.

My buddy has been telling me lately that some pros actually barshaft tune their arrows a little weak to get the best group, and then they're covered in the case of bad form.

If your results are inconsistent, perhaps you're not really used to that bow yet? Once I got my form and release dialed in, I find traditional archery to be pretty straightforward.

 

[MikeDeltaFoxtrot]

It is a real thing. I have no skill at it ( I tried), but the guy at the bow shop did my bow for me, and it subsequently shots broad heads and field points to the same POI.

 

[ozyclint]

Never had luck with bareshaft. Forever chasing my tail doubting the cause of the results. "Was it me or the arrow?"

Simply start with full length fletched shaft that is too weak. Change point weights to confirm change in spine. You may have to change it quite a lot. Trim shaft and try again. Confirm with point weight again before trimming.
I just go by arrow flight. I can see it porpoise or fishtail.

 

[nphunter]

Worked for me. The broadhead and field point is at 40yds. 40lbs, Satori, Uukah limbs, 400 spine, 250gr up front, 558gr arrow. Shooting off the shelf with a fixed crawl and instinctive.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

It’s all I do for tuning. This was a new arrow build. Bow shoots a 500 spine at 27.5 carbon to Carbon with 250 up front.

Brand new 400 spine full length with 250 up front. Shot weak at 25 yards. Cut 1/8 off the arrow and repeat. Ended up taking off an inch or so but resulted in broadheads, fletched, and bareshafts all together at my 25 yard point on.

String pressure is super critical for bs tune. Slight ring finger pressure with drastically change the arrow.

Also if new to it do not go cutting arrows. I’ve ruined more then my fair share by getting a false weak due to form and release and before ya know it your cutting shafts and it’s a form issue not a bow and arrow spine issue.

 

[Grand Passage]

Consistent form and release are essential.

I leave bare shafts slightly weak, as feathers will act to stiffen the arrow. A slightly weak arrow is more forgiving that slightly stiff in the event of poor form, plus you are more likely to under draw vs over draw the bow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wrench]

I start with a bare. I grab a shaft and start tossing weight at it. When I get where its close, I decide if it's the lenght I want. If so rock on, if not then I start cutting. Some shafts are around 100gr per inch some more some less....so go easy. I take it off the nock end to make it quick and easy.

With all that said, the goal is to get your field and broadhead to hit the same spot.....AND to land at the point of aim. If you have them together now and they are there....cool, if not....then you still have work to do.

 

[Wilderlife]

The elephant in the room is that if your form (and particularly your release) aren't solid and consistent, no amount of tuning attempts or use of tuning techniques is going to be a good time. With the exception of shelf contact, an arrow should behave fairly consistently, provided all other things are solid with the equipment. If your arrows are doing different things from release to release, the problem is not with the arrows.

When it comes to tuning trad bows, bareshafting, paper, or other methods, aren't really important. By that I mean, it doesn't matter HOW you diagnose your arrows as being too weak or too stiff, provided you can do it consistently. I like to get slow motion video as this helps me look at the arrow flight in detail, as well as make good calls on each release.

One way to build confidence is to shoot arrows that you know for certain should show very weak or very stiff, and shoot them enough that you get consistent readings. If they go either side of weak or stiff somewhat regularly, you can be confident that the tune isn't the problem.

Tuning arrows with trad bows is a fantastic way to develop a lot more knowledge around your bow, and build confidence in your setup, but if it becomes more and more frustrating you are better off setting the bow down and trying again another day. If you absolutely need to get arrows sorted and go for a hunt, get something that tunes closely (a little weak is slightly better than a little stiff), load it up with big fletches/arrows, and practice with that. Stacks of people don't really try to tune their arrows accurately and do something similar to this anyway.

 

[Wrench]

I shoot take downs and take mine down every day I hunt. I can tell instantly if I'm not on the money for brace by my arrow impact.

 

[jimh406]

Well, there's traditional and traditional. Shooting heavier arrows and heavier points with feathers off the shelf, I don't think bare shaft makes a lot of sense. If you are going light with small diameter carbons and rest and Berger button, it might.

That being said, how well you shoot with fingers can make a big difference in how well arrows fly. Can you shoot well with any recurve?

In any case, I'd contact the manufacturer and ask for their recommendation with your bow and draw length. They should be able to get you really close.

 

[Kentucky]

Not BS, doesn’t happen overnight…you can’t turn a bow in 3 hours unless you’ve tuned a buncha rigs and know your form and your gear and your previous experiences…

I would say it takes years to qualify as an experienced single string tuner…

Not like a compound, where any money with an Allen key can get good flight…

good thing is you’ve got along time before next season…

 

[Undomesticated]

No, it isn't BS but I believe it is often relied on too heavily. Just remember, bareshafts will often lie their butt off to you, which can make you chase your tail for a bit. False indications are common and can have you making adjustments in a completely wrong direction.

Ultimately, what matters is good arrow flight with a fletched arrow. Good fletched clearance/flight does NOT always correlate with best bareshaft tune.

The best tuning tool is shooting fletched shafts through paper at various distances and tuning for perfect flight. In my opinion, bareshaft is just a crude tool to begin this process/complement it.

Here's a hack for you to help tuning; buy a cheap stick-on one pin bow site (or tape a matchstick to your riser). Use the sight for doing your tuning. You can take it off afterwards. It greatly reduces aiming inconsistencies that can deceive you.

 

[Beendare]

Guys question bareshaft tuning typically when they can’t get a bow to tune. Guilty here of doing that myself.

it is absolutely the way to go and I regularly shoot BS as a form check.

 

[Arcus Venator]

I typically bareshaft a touch soft and low. Verify with multiple range sessions and video confirmation of arrow flight.

 

[Vaquero 45]

TxTrophy 85 ,,,, congrats on your TimberHawk bow .
They make really good bows and excellent risers .

 

[Fling-One]

Good discussion. In my experience BS tuning difficult, false readings can make you chase your tail as mentioned by previous posters. For me, it helps me get close, I make sure the arrow is flying a touch weak at 20 yds with bare shaft. I then shoot fletched arrows to confirm my arrow goes where I’m looking. Good luck!

 

[Hawkeye29]

Yes bareshafting is important, but you have to have the form dialed to be consistent. Yet broadheads with feathers are more forgiving than a bareshaft in my experience.

 

[JjamesIII]

Finally got my timberhawk custom recurve in and enlisted the help of a seasoned trad archer to get it set up.
Set brace height, installed some silencers and got to shooting, started with 400 spine black eagle instincts with a 125 grain point and 100 grain outsert. 3 hours later, we still could not get it to tune, after going thru 4 different arrow types. One arrow that he liked based on the the tune session was my fatty aluminum 2216’s tipped with 150 grains I use in my bear Kodiak. Darkness fell on us so we couldn’t fully finish but it gave me a good start, albeit was showing a little bit stiff. One thing we fought the entire time was the arrow kicking up off the shelf.
Went out today and shot a 2216 out of the new bow, which is 50-51# at my draw. Probably one of the worst arrow flights I’ve seen. WAY too stiff. Went back today and shot with both the 400 spine instincts and some 500 spine instincts I had laying around, both with 125 grain tips and 100 grain outserts. Pretty identical arrow flight with both. Screw on a 125 grain broadhead and the 400’s with a broadhead are shooting a little to the right (I’m left handed) of the field points. The 500’s fly like darts and broadheads group right with the field points.

Dawned on me I never shot my 2216’s with a broadhead so I grab an arrow and shoot it into the 3D. Perfect shot. Grab a few field point arrows and shoot about 3-4 rounds intermixing the field point arrows with the broadhead tipped arrow and it’s flying right with them. Go and get the bareshaft arrow and shoot it at 10 yards and it hits the target almost sideways.

So I’m left with two bows that shoot arrows tipped with broadheads very well, that don’t do worth a bareshaft and are outside the poundage chart range on spine.

Go figure. I’m convinced traditional archery is a form of sorcery

Bare shaft tuning is an excellent way to find your spine/length of arrows. It will also be a good way to tweak point weight. All have an effect on dynamic spine. If your form sucks or you pluck the string any trad bow tuning will drive you mad. Get your form solid, bare shafts will impact perfectly with fletched arrows at all distances.
One good tool is slow motion film the arrow flight from behind you and even slightly above. Your phone should do that really well. You can definitely see any flight issues and overall it looks bad ass, lol

 

[peaceful_ruler]

no, bare shaft tuning is important to maximize arrow effectiveness