Iron Will Outfitters Single Bevel Broadhead Review ***Updated 2/24/21***

Does the way the string is made change the rotation of the arrow? I was under the impression that it was how you fletched your arrows. Like R helical fletching meant the arrow would rotate to the R meaning you would need the R single bevel head. Is this correct?
 
Does the way the string is made change the rotation of the arrow? I was under the impression that it was how you fletched your arrows. Like R helical fletching meant the arrow would rotate to the R meaning you would need the R single bevel head. Is this correct?
Yes, it is the string.
There are many discussions of this, and videos on YouTube clearly showing this.
You can test yourself, by checking the turn of the arrow on a very close range target, and confirming by moving increasing lengths to the target. Noting the position of the fletching vanes.
Often called, "clocking" your arrow rotation.
 
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Something like 97% of RH bow strings "clock" the arrow to the left from the bow.
If you have RH fletching, it will take some time from the bow flight to actually start rotating to the right.

I have since changed my fletching to LH, thus, I use LH bevel broadheads.
If you use RH fletching, you would want RH bevel broadheads.
 
Does the way the string is made change the rotation of the arrow? I was under the impression that it was how you fletched your arrows. Like R helical fletching meant the arrow would rotate to the R meaning you would need the R single bevel head. Is this correct?
The string does induce a slight rotation to the arrow initially. However, after a couple of feet of flight, the offset or helical fletch will overwhelm any influence the string has made. The idea behind the whole string twist direction is to continue the natural arrow rotational direction with the fletching instead of fighting it. Does it make a difference? Hardly, but why not?

The single bevel must match the direction of the fletching, regardless of the string twist. That is the important part. Going the opposite direction will hinder penetration, theoretically.
 
Are most elk hunters that transition from more "traditional" broadheads to the single bevel Iron Will broadheads using the same weight Iron Wills, or increasing significantly their total arrow weight as suggested by Ranch Fairy?
 
I was considering changing my setup to a much heavier arrow but now that the 100 grain Iron Will's are available I am reconsidering my decision. I do have quite a bit of money invested in making the change to the 200 grain broadheads.
 
Are most elk hunters that transition from more "traditional" broadheads to the single bevel Iron Will broadheads using the same weight Iron Wills, or increasing significantly their total arrow weight as suggested by Ranch Fairy?
No- ranch fairy is not the person you want to take advice from on a lot of things. Most especially his arrow choices. A few of his points I agree on that are basically common sense and nothing “revolutionary”.

You need to find adequately weighted arrows for your draw weight/length that can provide enough speed to keep the pin gaps on your sight reasonable at your maximum effective range.
If you hunt pigs at a feeder out to 30 yards from a known shot distance that is not variable, then you can go 600+ grains of a cue stick for an arrow. Trajectory doesn’t matter in that style of “hunting” in Texas.

Almost every other real hunting situation is dynamic to the point where shot distances change by a moment’s notice, and trajectory becomes an important consideration. If you hit a tree or animal with your range finder, then draw your bow and the shot opportunity is now different, you’ll wish the 40-50 yard pin gap didn’t have an inch of separation, like you’ll have shooting a 240 fps arrow. Rutting elk don’t stand still very long when coming into a call like a pig with its head buried in a corn pile.

I think a middle of the road set up will take care of most of your hunting situations. With a 70 lb draw, arrow weight around 500 grains, 150 grain fixed head- that’s shooting about 275-285 fps. You’ll tune better than a 300+fps bow, pin gaps aren’t bad, and the energy will take down anything you can get your tag on.

It’s a bit heavier than a set up I’d use if I’d shoot only deer, but I don’t like changing things for different species because tuning takes time if you’re doing it right.
 
For those of you who have shot animals with both our single bevel heads and double bevel heads, I'm interested to hear how you think they compare. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
 
For those of you who have shot animals with both our single bevel heads and double bevel heads, I'm interested to hear how you think they compare. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Bill, I have killed animals with both. I honestly couldn't tell the difference. They kill animals with sufficient efficiency that I admire the holes and move on. I have shot a bunch of animals with your Double Bevels and beyond the Quality of the Edge, Head Durability ... my only "complaint" is the blood trails aren't necessarily amazing, but when the animal drops in <50 yards ... it's largely irrelevant. I will note that the overwhelming reason I shoot your heads is that I want a head that can help over come my less than stellar performance and if I hit bone, I know Iron Wills will still do devastating damage! My Single Bevel kill was a heart shot ... what can I can say it was over quickly and the tracking job was short!
 
Broadheads seem great. In the process of purchasing some new. Trying to decide what weight I want and if I want weighted inserts to go along with them
 
I think beveled broadheads and just another over thought fad after listening to a podcast with Bill from Iron Will and his testing. I'll take a Double please.
 
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