Iron will flight issue

[Bighunt531]

What poundage are you shooting???? If your over 60 or 65 that could actually make em get a little wonky....

 

[Billy Goat]

150 32" it was more of a guess that I'm overspined, I kept the shafts full length to avoid even more of a spine issue, i would not go with the same arrow setup again but I went with a spine chart and now I know better

I'll be honest, it's out of my wheelhouse at those dimensions, but it sounds underspined to me.

32" is a long shaft. I used 250's at 28ish inches and 75#.

The numbers you are posting fps/gr are impressive, that shaft is getting pushed pretty hard.

 

[Oregonbred]

Are your Iron Wills the single bevel model, by chance?

Nope

 

[Oregonbred]

I'll be honest, it's out of my wheelhouse at those dimensions, but it sounds underspined to me.

32" is a long shaft. I used 250's at 28ish inches and 75#.

The numbers you are posting fps/gr are impressive, that shaft is getting pushed pretty hard.

Yeah things just got much more confusing to me.... the 3rd broadhead I just shot for shits and grins and it flies perfectly and groups with the other stuff..... something has to be off with the other 2

 

[Billy Goat]

Yeah things just got much more confusing to me.... the 3rd broadhead I just shot for shits and grins and it flies perfectly and groups with the other stuff..... something has to be off with the other 2

Try turning the nock on the other 2.

I think you are really pushing the spine. Arrow reaction becomes critical. See if impact moves around with nock rotation

 

[Oregonbred]

Try turning the nock on the other 2.

I think you are really pushing the spine. Arrow reaction becomes critical. See if impact moves around with nock rotation

I think we may have just found our solution. I got one of the other ones to shoot quite well at 60 yards with flight that dreams are made of. I can't thank you enough. I'm having each broadhead have a designated shaft so things don't change

 

[Billy Goat]

I think we may have just found our solution. I got one of the other ones to shoot quite well at 60 yards with flight that dreams are made of. I can't thank you enough. I'm having each broadhead have a designated shaft so things don't change

More than likely if you can shorten your shaft length it will eliminate the nock tuning.

I think you are underspined, you take 1/2-3/4" off and it will clean things up. You can still benefit from nock tuning, however it will be by 1" at 40 instead of 8".



I been there, it's frustrating.
It's why I got a skullet, done pulled everything out the top.

 

[Oregonbred]

More than likely if you can shorten your shaft length it will eliminate the nock tuning.

I think you are underspined, you take 1/2-3/4" off and it will clean things up. You can still benefit from nock tuning, however it will be by 1" at 40 instead of 8".



I been there, it's frustrating.
It's why I got a skullet, done pulled everything out the top.

I got 2 of them to tune consistently. One of the heads which was the one shot the most through out this whole ordeal would not fly consistently and turning the nock ended up making it shoot 20 inches low at 40 yards and blowing up on a rock. $50 gone on that arrow oh well atleast I have 2 of them performing how they should

 

[5MilesBack]

Have you spin-tested your arrows with the BH's on an arrow spinner? When you go to the extremes (i.e. draw length, draw weight, arrow spine, arrow length, FOC, etc) every little thing matters. I don't think you're underspined........I remember Kevin Strother shooting .300 spine ACC's at 140lbs just fine.

Sounds to me like you have some possible wobbly heads, or wobbly head and arrow combinations. You do what you gotta do to get it right. That's always my philosophy......give me an arrow/bh combo and I'll tune the bow to it. I'm shooting RIP TKO 250's with 200gr of tip weight at 75lbs and almost 33" draw. And Billy is right. It should be easy to tune to those tiny little heads.

 

[Oregonbred]

Have you spin-tested your arrows with the BH's on an arrow spinner? When you go to the extremes (i.e. draw length, draw weight, arrow spine, arrow length, FOC, etc) every little thing matters. I don't think you're underspined........I remember Kevin Strother shooting .300 spine ACC's at 140lbs just fine.

Sounds to me like you have some possible wobbly heads, or wobbly head and arrow combinations. You do what you gotta do to get it right. That's always my philosophy......give me an arrow/bh combo and I'll tune the bow to it. I'm shooting RIP TKO 250's with 200gr of tip weight at 75lbs and almost 33" draw. And Billy is right. It should be easy to tune to those tiny little heads.

I did not spin test the one that ended up getting blown up on a rock but the other 2 that I have flying true were just fine.
In the end I got 2/3 to shoot well so I guess I can't complain but losing a $30 head and 20 some odd dollar shaft in such a fruitless way kinda stings nonetheless.
I'll mix and match my quiver this year and figure it our earlier in the year next year, or I might try out vpa like a buddy has been relentlessly trying to get me to jump over to.
Never in my life have I had a harder time getting BHs to tune. First time ever that I have had to nock tune to get any type of head to fly well but damnit these iron wills are damn near blowing through my new target with my setup so no complaints I guess.

 

[OR Archer]

One thing that is often overlooked with two blade heads is how they are oriented. I always try to have them oriented in a 12/6 position. I’ve found this helps reduce planing with them and in my opinion improves flight.

 

[Plowboy85]

One thing that is often overlooked with two blade heads is how they are oriented. I always try to have them oriented in a 12/6 position. I’ve found this helps reduce planing with them and in my opinion improves flight.

I am certainly not challenging you but I got to thinking about this the other day when I was setting inserts and collars, the arrows will rotate with the helical/offset so wouldn’t it be a moot point?

 

[Billy Goat]

I am certainly not challenging you but I got to thinking about this the other day when I was setting inserts and collars, the arrows will rotate with the helical/offset so wouldn’t it be a moot point?

It's a matter of controlling variables at launch. Keeping those blades oriented the exact same way could help, I haven't experienced it, however I generally shoot a pretty stiff shaft for a hunting arrow. If the blades are straight up down, it would likely be more sensitive to horizontal travel, but less likely for nock travel (up/down). Also that shaft at launch isn't rotating on the string, so you have the first 20-24" of travel with zero rotation until the nock comes off the string.

I have friends that make sure they orient blades on their broadheads the same way with a recurve, cause they like the blade to contact their finger like Fred Bear did. Too much headache for me.

 

[Oregonbred]

Well either way I got them to work and I also tried a brand of 250 spine shafts that my buddy custom built a dozen of for me and they worked flawlessly in them, ended up using the 250s over the 150 because I was also after deer this year And they worked great on my buck,
Thank you guys for all the help might be heading back for elk in a few days and the 150s will be back in the quiver so I'll update this then.

 

[Illustrator76]

What did you do to get them to work? Was it just nock tuning? I had my Iron Wills hitting right of the target at 20 yards, and I ended up moving from a 350 to a 300 spine arrow, and that seemed to solve my issue.

 

[Oregonbred]

What did you do to get them to work? Was it just nock tuning? I had my Iron Wills hitting right of the target at 20 yards, and I ended up moving from a 350 to a 300 spine arrow, and that seemed to solve my issue.

Turning them worked for the 150 spine but I got some 250s and they were less finicky

 

[Illustrator76]

Turning them worked for the 150 spine but I got some 250s and they were less finicky

Mine seem to fly well so far, but if issues pop back up again, I may switch to something like a Magnus Ser Razor broadhead and call it a day.

 

[Oregonbred]

Turning them worked for the 150 spine but I got some 250s and they were less finicky

I used them for followup shots this year after just deciding to go with grim reapers and they worked well when I did my job. Did end up hitting an elk with the iron will but I rushed the shot and did not readjust my sight housing and put it through the high shoulder/neck of a cow... oh well first time I have wounded an animal and I notched my tag after 2 days of looking

 

[Oregonbred]

Mine seem to fly well so far, but if issues pop back up again, I may switch to something like a Magnus Ser Razor broadhead and call it a day.

I tried and will go with Tooth of the arrow going forward

 

[doverpack12]

I never could get IW regular 100s to fly anywhere near as well as other fixed heads so ended up selling them. If a shuttle T, ATAC, tooth, Kudu, hit the big matrix white dot at a yardage, then the iron will would be outside in no consistent direction. Had to be something with my setup because so many others see great accuracy, just didn’t work well for me.