Inconsistency with new bow. Considering change to Elite.

[Frogfan]

As I have previously posted I had a difficult time getting my Nitrum Turbo set up and tuned. After working through all of the issues I believe the bow is tuned and shooting well. However, I am still not happy with the consistency I am getting out of this bow. This leads me to believe the problem is me, either physically or mentally.

The Nitrum Turbo is my first bow change since my 2008 Bowtech Guardian and I am wondering if I made a bad decision going with a true speed bow. I know my shoulders aren't what they used to be but I have no trouble pulling the 70 lbs. Nitrum. I do; however, feel like I am not as steady with the Hoyt when I am at full draw. I have noticed during shooting sessions my first 10-12 arrows group fairly well, as shown below, after that the groups seem to get much more erratic. Some groups will be right and the next ones low left. I have never had any issues like this in my previous 22 years of shooting. I do believe mental confidence in your gear plays a large roll and the excessive trouble setting up the Nitrum Turbo has not helped with that.

I am grasping at straws but am considering trying one of these Elites (Impulse 34, Synergy, Energy 35) or he Prime Rival to possibly help with stability at full draw.

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,

Clint

 

[unchained]

As long as the first ones good that is all that matters haha. As far as stability, what are you running for a stabilizer? Might want to look into a back bar.

 

[xcutter]

I would check to see if you have your draw length dialed in. I have a CS34 and had a lot of trouble getting consistent like you are talking. My whole issue was grip placement. After I got that figured out I shoot it really well. Just my .02. Hope this helps.

 

[Pramo]

What arrows are you using? I had to go 300 spine and a 50 grain insert with 100 grain head to get my CST to shoot good. 340 spine with a standard insert flew all over the place.

Also agree on the draw length I will add and remove a twist or two to the bow string, experiment with d-loop size and modules to make sure the draw and anchor is consistent

 

[jmez]

Going from a Bowtech to a Hoyt I would take 1/2 inch off your draw length.

 

[Frogfan]

My local shop originally game me 340's with an additional 50gr. insert up front. I questioned them about this and they assured me this was the correct spine. Shane (OnTarget7) tuned the bow and could not get a good tune with the 340's so we dropped down to 300's and solved the problem.

I am shooting Axis 300's with a 100gr. broadhead.

 

[Blackcow]

Im just going to throw this out there. Are you shooting all those arrows, 10-12, just boom boom boom? If so, are the 1st few in the spot, and then progress down, over or both? And then you go pull em, walk back and do it all over, with worse results? Maybe your bow shoulder is being a trooper and getting the bow back, but stabilizing, and physically holding the bow up is too taxing. If I'm wrong ignore my post and carry on

 

[DWarcher]

I would check to see if you have your draw length dialed in.

^ This

 

[InIt2Live]

Take your grip off and hold on the riser, if you haven't already. I couldn't shoot my Nitrum 34 worth a crap until I did that. Now the only problems I have are my own inabilities to hold steady (naturally shaky) but my groups tightened right up after removing the grip. Not even the side panels would work for me, I had to go bare!

 

[jmez]

If you take off the grip you are going to add another 1/4 inch to your draw length so keep that in mind.

 

[5MilesBack]

The Nitrum Turbo is my first bow change since my 2008 Bowtech Guardian

If you're comparing the hold of the Turbo to the Guardian that could be a difficult task. Haven't shot the Guardian, but my '07 Commander was an absolute dead rock in my hand. I could slap arrows together all day at 60 yards with that thing. I only wish I could hold that steady with all my bows.

 

[yardwork]

I experienced something very similar when I started shooting a Hoyt. I'd previously shot a Bear and it was draw, anchor, aim and shoot and I got pretty tight groups. I went to a Charger and I don't know if the geometry is different but it took me a lot of messing around to get consistently tight groups. Maybe too much? (I pulled my plastic handle for a time too.)

What I found with the Hoyt was my sight window had to be exactly, and I mean exactly the same with every shot. I've had my pro-shop owner and his manager check my draw length and fit on different occasions and they are fine. So for me it was adding a step to mentally check that sight window to be sure the peep ring was consistently in the same place in relation to the sight ring each time. Archery 101 stuff, but I had to relearn it a bit. Worth it though, now I'm grouping nicely out to 70 yds.

 

[Frogfan]

I have had several bow mechanics check the draw length and everyone including me feels DL is okay.

During the initial tune of the bow I did shoot with the grip off thinking I was having a grip issue that was manifesting itself in the tune. Turns out I had a defective QAD that was causing the problem. After replacing the QAD I am tearing a nice hole in paper and my first group in the session averages 10 arrows in a coke can sized spot from 30 yards.

I am very regimented in my shooting routine and have recently noticed that I need to bring my bow hand (left), what I feel is quite a bit, to the right to bring the sight level to center. I have to admit I have not been as aware as I should be about the repetitiveness of my sight picture. Honestly I feel like I am completely preoccupied trying to figure out why I am so unsteady with this bow at full draw.

Again, it may all be mental but I feel like trying something else out (Elite or Prime) may provide some insight. Maybe Hoyt is just not for me and it took the Nitrum to learn this.

I guess my next question will be Prime or Elite. I see lots of people debating this topic. Luckily my local shop carries both so I can shoot them side by side and see what feels best.

Thanks again.

 

[Manosteel]

Chances are good it is grip related and/or shoulder issues in your holding arm. I had the Hoyt CST ZT last season dialed in at 72#'s and my shoulder issues increased significantly to the point I couldn't shoot 2 days in a row. Like you I have been bow hunting for more than 20 years, lots of wear and tear on my bones. My guess, like me, you are well into your 40's. Speed bows aren't made for us I noticed I wasn't as steady after 25 shoots and while my grouping were good up to that point (60+ yards groups) they opened up. Because you are consistent low right my guess is fatigue, we need a picture of your at full draw to question potential draw length issues.

After trying nearly everything on the market it came down to elite impulse 34 and the Prime Rize - I went with the Prime Rize mainly because of the grip, its money!!!. Both were smooth and a pleasure to shoot. Even with my worn out shoulders I can easily get in 50/60 shoots in a session with no shoulder issues and no loss in stability. Mind you I also dropped down to 65# limbs (set at 66#) 291 fps with a 430gr arrow. Lots of KE.

 

[charvey9]

Just my 2 cents, but sounds like the bow shoots well until you get fatigued. Could be a physical as much as a mental issue. Before you drop a lot of money on a new bow try lowering the draw weight and see if the problem continues.

 

[pointer26]

I have the same problem. I have nitrum turbo at 25 1/2 draw. I was shooting it at 65 dw and was having all kinds of shoulder problems. I drop the dw to the lowest setting 60 lbs or 8 turns and my groups got tighter and less shoulder problems. I am still not happy with my groups. I do not know much about tuning but will start with walk back tuning and paper tuning and go from there. I am going try a 340 spine and a 125 bh. I should have gone and shot a few bows before buying the nitrum turbo.
Good luck
P

 

[charvey9]

I have the same problem. I have nitrum turbo at 25 1/2 draw. I was shooting it at 65 dw and was having all kinds of shoulder problems. I drop the dw to the lowest setting 60 lbs or 8 turns and my groups got tighter and less shoulder problems. I am still not happy with my groups. I do not know much about tuning but will start with walk back tuning and paper tuning and go from there. I am going try a 340 spine and a 125 bh. I should have gone and shot a few bows before buying the nitrum turbo.
Good luck
P

If the bow hasn't been tuned to the finished arrow, draw weight, and draw length you plan to use, that needs to be step number 1. You can not make any determination on how the bow performs without tuning. Its like driving a car that is out of alignment and saying it doesn't handle well.

If you change any settings on the bow or switch arrows it will needs to be re-tuned to pefrect the arrow flight.

 

[charvey9]

To the OP, another suggestion is to work on your follow through. I don't know the specs on your last bow, but almost guaranteed the Nitrum Turbo has a shorter brace height. If you are not disciplined on the follow through, shorter brace height will be less forgiving.

 

[timekiller13]

When I worked in retail sporting goods, I was allowed to get one new bow every year and use it as a "shop shooter" bow. Nearly every year I chose a Bowtech, because that's what I was familiar and happy with. A couple years ago, I decided to try an Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo 34. We were selling these bows as fast as we could get them in, so I wanted to see what all the hype was about. I hated that bow at first. The grip angle and grip size was so much different than my Bowtech that I had a terrible time shooting it. At 20 yds I was lucky to get a basketball sized group. I changed arrows, rests, releases, had the draw length checked, tuned the bow, twisted cables and still nothing. Finally, my co-worker told me to change my grip. So, I altered my grip. Uncomfortable at first, but after a few weeks, I got used to it. Groups shrank and I started shooting the bow very well. In the end, though, the bow just wasn't for me. I never truly got comfortable with it because of the way I had to alter my grip. So I went back to shooting Bowtechs. Moral of the story, make sure the bow fits you in every aspect.

 

[pointer26]

If the bow hasn't been tuned to the finished arrow, draw weight, and draw length you plan to use, that needs to be step number 1. You can not make any determination on how the bow performs without tuning. Its like driving a car that is out of alignment and saying it doesn't handle well.

If you change any settings on the bow or switch arrows it will needs to be re-tuned to perfect the arrow flight.

you were right. I thought my bow was tune. It turns out the 2nd and 3rd axis was not set and not paper tune. It took me pulling my hair out and YouTube videos to figure things out. My local shop tech is not a pro. Once I set the 2nd, 3rd and paper tune it. I was hitting bulls eye out to 20,30,40,50,60 yards. I finally figure out the proper way to hold a bow. I sold my Nitrum turbo and got a carbon defiant and I am still hitting bulls eyes. I really like my new bow.