Impact driver for barrel removal?

[jaredg]

Why have I not seen it mentioned when talking about barrel (Tikka) removal, the use of an impact driver with an action wrench? I hope this doesn't show too much ignorance on my part.

I've got a vice, a (heavy equipment) shop, why mess around with cheater bars and such when we can soak it in warm kroil overnight, and then hit it with a wrench?

Is this a horrible idea and why?

 

[Jimbee]

Do you mean an impact wrench on an internal action wrench, or? The internal action wrench that I have is supposed to shear off before it damages the action. I think you'd just immediately wreck it.

 

[HingleMcCringleberry]

Use an external wrench and 3ft bar.

 

[gbflyer]

Why have I not seen it mentioned when talking about barrel (Tikka) removal, the use of an impact driver with an action wrench? I hope this doesn't show too much ignorance on my part.

I've got a vice, a (heavy equipment) shop, why mess around with cheater bars and such when we can soak it in warm kroil overnight, and then hit it with a wrench?

Is this a horrible idea and why?

Some of the internal action wrenches I’ve seen have recommendations against something like more than 125ft/lb applied. It will usually take that or more to get a factory one off. Honestly I don’t know what it would hurt either to use a rattle gun if the action wrench didn’t twist off and the barrel vise holds. Let us know how it works out for you.

 

[mt100gr.]

Do you mean an impact wrench on an internal action wrench, or? The internal action wrench that I have is supposed to shear off before it damages the action. I think you'd just immediately wreck it.

^^^ that's why I wouldn't try it. A hydraulic press is handy to hold the barrel vise extra tight, but using a cheater or a deadblow hammer to assist the OUTSIDE action wrench just isn't a big deal.

 

[wapitibob]

Hit the wrench handle with a 2# steel hammer, It'll break loose.

 

[Castle Rock]

It’s the best way I have found

 

[PathFinder]

Hit the wrench handle with a 2# steel hammer, It'll break loose.

This was the method I used. External action wrench and hit the end with a decent sized hammer. Voila, impact. I've never used one but I'd worry about damaging the wrench or action with an internal wrench.

 

[Arcola]

I’d rather deal with finish issues on the outside of the action than risk creating issues with the internal machining. An exterior wrench and a quick strike with a hammer has always worked for me with Tikkas. Howas have been a different story. I’ve had to relieve the barrels on the two I’ve done.

 

[Wapiti1]

Depends on the fit of an internal wrench to the action and if you have a full length wrench or one the only engages at the receiver ring.

If it is loose and only engages at the ring, I would not use it. It will likely batter the raceway at the locking lug abutment and may cause bolt binding issues. The wrench head that contacts the action will be harder than the action steel.

I made my wrenches out of 4140 prehard and they are full length of the raceway with a snug fit. I have no issue putting an air impact on them to break a barrel loose. Be very mindful not to spin too fast once it breaks with a stainless on stainless connection.

For those that use a long cheater bar on an internal wrench, its good practice to support the action or wrench with a stand near the end. If something moves, you can bend or twist an action. They are not easy to straighten.

Jeremy

 

[SwampDonkey55]

I’ll let you borrow this as long as you post photos of the aftermath

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dos XX]

2 1/2" square drive. Get 'er done.

If that won't do it, they make a 3".

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