My attempt at 5yo simplicity since I havent seen it spelled out all in one post:
Lots of folks including me have had scopes with good reputations lose zero repeatedly, potentially wounding an animal or disrupting a hunt or tag they’ve spent years planning for. No warranty is going to get you a do-over on your tag that you built points for years to draw, etc. Therefore many people consider durability a “must-have”, and all other criteria such as weight, glass, features, etc as “nice to have’s”. See scope eval link above for details.
Shooting inside 300ish, simplicity might be better and isnt really a limiting factor for some people. For others it is. 300ish-350ish is where “long range” issues begin to really come into play. Distance amplifies error, and several sources of error are always in play, AND errors are additive, ie they stack up on top of each other…so things that weren’t a concern at shorter range become much more significant at longer range.
many folks use too much magnification so especially with a harder recoiling gun such as a light-weight 300winmag, they lose sight of where a hit animal runs and/or cant make a followup shot as quickly or as well as they could if they used less magnification. PRS is not a good allegory for hunting in this regard because those guns hardly recoil at all, and those targets dont move, making very high magnification more useable. That is not the case in an 8.5lb 300 winmag.
Past 300-400ish yards wind matters, sometimes a lot. Especially with a scope that can magnify above 9 or 10x, a reticle you can hold wind at any magnification is very helpful—this means FFP is more or less mandatory for most shooters to effectively deal with wind in a hunting scenario. Dialing wind is not as effective for the vast majority of shooters. People make 2fp scopes work, it is just much more difficult to do reasonably well.
A large majority of FFP reticles are hard to see against a noisy background when at lower magnification. Depending on where and how you hunt this may be more or less of a problem, but ime it can be a big problem for an eastern hunter putting together a gun for occasionally travels west to hunt, but which will commonly be used for eastern timber hunting. This is why many folks think they hate ffp reticles. BUT there are FFP reticles designed to be easy to see at low magnification that eliminate or reduce this problem. Some have been mentioned here. If, because this gun will see plenty of use at short range, you decide to go with a 2fp scope, then a lower-magnification scope (9-10x, 12x MAX) still allows enough field of view in situations where you need to use the reticle at max power—most people cannot effectively use the reticle in a 2fp scope unless its at max power where the graduations are true.
A lot of folks talk about shooting at longer ranges, and it seems easy after a little practice, but when it comes to making a real hunting shot TONS of folks (including me) cant make reliable first-round hits as well as they think they can. It takes a lot of practice to make reliable first round hits at 400 or 500 yards in a new situation.
The cliffs notes:
Get a ffp scope that has been shown objectively to generally hold zero well, with a reticle designed for low-magnification visibility, somewhere on the lower-range of magnification, and practice with it a lot if you have any real hope of using it past point blank range. Some of the best candidates have already been mentioned.