Hoyt Vector 35 LH Tuning setup ?

[mag1]

Hi all, I am new on this forum and have found some great stuff. I did read a thread on Hoyt tuning that was very helpful, but I'm still having some issues. I have a new to me 2012 Hoyt Vector 35 LH. I got a good deal on it, and decided to take it all apart, repaint with Cerekote, and put on new strings and set up with my choice of accessoires. I have a bowmast press, and my own drawboard. My main question is how to get it back to spec. Specs are 35ATA, 6.5"brace hieght, and 55-65lb limbs. It has the RKT cam#2, set on D for 28.5"DL. I have it maxed out weight wise to set it up. I currently measure 35 5/16"ATA, 6.75" brace hieght, and 61-62LBs. I have the cam's synced (top is slightly ahead of the bottom), and it looks like the cams are pretty centered (lean wise) at full draw, at rest, the top cam with an arrow on it will intersect the string at the d-loop.

Do I need to get the ATA and draw wieght back to spec? If so, how do you do that?

Pics aren't the best, but you can see the before/after. Thanks for any input, help.

Here are before (Plastic dipped) After (Cerekote)

 

[elkbowkevin]

Put 1.5 to 2 twists in the buss cable bottom or put 2 ea in each upper buss cable yoke leg. This should get you closer to ATA spec and max weight spec. Keep adding twists till it hits the max 65# weight spec.
The RKT cams as you seem to know already like to be timed where the top is hitting about 1/16" or so ahead of the bottom. This will give the better feeling wall and a tiny bit of valley where the rkt #2 likes to be. If they are dead even the bow will feel jumpy and wanna take off on you if you let down or relax a bit. You can also take a twist or two in or out of the bow string to get the draw length exact. Brace height spec dont worry about that, that will change with every draw length setting and tune. Its NOT all that important. Biggest thing is ATA close(may not be exact spec), Max weight, and cam timing are the two biggest things with the RKT cam bows.
I have the vector 32. #2 cam bow
One thing i leaned with that bow is that if I take the top draw stop rubber bumper off, (they slide right out the grove) re-time the top cam to hit about 1/16 ahead of bottom that bow has a completely different feel in that wall and has just a touch more felt valley. Much more stable at full draw which is a plus. What is happening is that rubber bumper is not skooshing down against the cable and that the top draw stop is making more solid contact with the cable, which in turn, makes for a more solid felt wall. Try it you may like it too.
Kevin

 

[elkbowkevin]

Oh, and welcome to Rokslide, its a cool place to hang out.

 

[Craig Van Arsdale]

Make sure all your strings are twisted to spec lengths before putting it back together. I bet they are not right now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mag1]

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try.

I'm in Wisconsin, where I hunt the whitetail on public Marshes, I usually slog thru the cattails, sometimes 1-2 miles in, other times, I take the jon boat back in. While it's flat here, (East Central Wi) it still takes some work.

I just found Rokslide, elk101, the hunt backcountry, and thegrittybowmen. Lots of interesting stuff to learn, dreaming of the backcountry once my kids get big enough to let me take some time out west.

 

[mag1]

I finally got it to spec. I had been twisting the CC and when not under tension, it was starting to knot up. I ended up contacting SBK Strings, Jeff didn't like the pic. I set him and thought maybe somethign wasn't made right, so I sent them back. They were made to spec, so he reset them (the right twists under tension) sent them back. (By the way, Jeff was awesome to deal with, great to talk with on the phone, and evenbetter with emailing questions, ect.... He even sent an email to see how it was going, GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE) Did I mention that this is the 1st bow I was trying to do myself? Operator error I am thinking. Anyways, I wrote down all the twists/untwists I put in this time. I 1st set the draw weight, timed the cams, then reset the draw lenght, I had to add 8 twists to the string, and it is still a little long, but the ATA is now in spec. reset the DW to 65.3lbs, re-synced the cams, and I am now ready to finish the setup.

Elkbowkeven, thanks for the tips, I did take the rubber stop out as well, that was a good tip. I've got to get this thing setup, as our deer season opens about 10weeks.

 

[jmez]

8 twists to the string is a lot. You are much better off getting the bow in spec using the cables rather than the string. It takes a lot of twists in the string to make a little difference. Really, the only thing you should be tweaking with the string is the draw length, and then a 1/4 inch maximum. If you twisted the string 8 times and it is still long I would untwist it 8 times and put a 27.5 mod in the cam and then start from there.

Typically with a Hoyt your buss cable is going to have a lot more twist than both the control cable and the string. Since you are a lefty your left yoke will end up with about twice as many twists as the rigtht yoke. I use the buss cable and yokes to set ATA, BH, and peak weight. Use the control cable for timing and leave the string alone.

 

[mag1]

Here's what it took to get it to these specs. ATA - 35 1/8, BH - 6.75", 65lbs
Twisted added - CC +11.5; BC +14; String +8.

Here's what I did. Installed strings, set DW to 65., synced cams, checked DL. It was on the 29+ range. I'm a 28.5". So, then adjusted string length, then redid cc and BC for DW, then sync. That is also how I got the ATA correct, it was 3/8" or so long before adjusting string. Not sure if I did it correctly, but from what I could find on various threads on setting up a Hoyt, I tried to follow the steps set out. Anyways, it seems to be set right.

 

[jmez]

The bow is going to run long on DL, probably 1/4-1/2 inch, just how they make them. If you added that many twists to string, CC and buss cable to get in spec then they aren't made correctly in my opinion.

 

[jmez]

My last three bows have been Hoyt's. Have replaced strings on them a few times. I've never had to twist or untwist a string. I usually end up putting 4-8 twists in the buss cable. Putting 3-5 in the right yoke, taking out the same in the left yoke and taking out or putting in 1.5-2 in the control cable.

 

[mag1]

ok, so what is the correct way to install a string. If I were to take them off, untwist to where they were when they came in. then where do you start?
1) set draw weight to 65 from the Buss Cable
2) sync the cams with the CC
3) check draw lenght? (if long, do you adjust with the string?) I have the #2 cam module, set on D which is for 28.5. What I did is measure from the throat of the grip to the string at the d-loop, and added 1.75".
4) not worry about the ATA being long? 35.125" is spec.

Cam lean is good, when at rest, with an arrow across top cam, it just intersects the string at the d-loop. was going to tweak once I started paper tuning.

Set me straight, I don't have a ton of time before season to get used to a LH bow. Thanks for any input.

 

[jmez]

Not sure you will gain anything by taking them off and untwisting them and starting over.

If it took that many twists then something isn't right with the string set.

 

[mag1]

I've got another question, when paper tuning, I am consistently getting a tear that has the tip end to the right of the fletching. I'm not sure if that is a right or left tear. Also, I have not been able to figure out is, do you do the same on a LH bow as you would for a RH bow, or is it all opposite? I do need to get some foot powder to make sure I am not getting rest/fletch contact. My up and down are good. I reset my rest with a center shot gauge so that it is in line with the string, pretty easy to make. I do have some cam lean, when at rest, an arrow from the cam will bisect the string at the d-loop. Thanks again for the info u guys have provided.

 

[mag1]

Well, After a year of sitting in the basement, I finally got back to it. I was having the tear listed above. it got worse, so I finally threw in the towel. Took it into the local shop, they changed owners, and moved to a new location. within 15 minutes, 2 twists in the yoke later, I'm shooting bullet holes. so close, yet so far. Now to finish sighting in, and getting used to the LH. I like how it feels.