Hoyt tuning issues

[itsTyrtruion]

I have a pro defiant 34 65# and am struggling getting it to shoot anything close to bullet holes. Been through several different arrow spine set ups from 350,340,300 gold tips, black eagles, cabelas... the tear right now was down and to the right and the chart says move rest right... it's so close to the riser at this point I think the vanes are going to have problems clearing the cables.

I bought this bow new from Hoyt. Ordered through scheels and need someone that knows what they're doing to help me figure it out. I e always just made due and gotten decent results but this time I didn't want to screw around. Don't trust the shop at scheels or cabelas and don't know a good shop in the Reno area... willing to drive several hundred miles to get this thing set up properly.

I love shooting it, but I know it's probably slightly wrong draw length. Anyone know a place to go that seriously knows they're shit? I was gonna take it to Denver last week so no limits could help me out but couldn't get a travel case in time.

Please help.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mt100gr.]

You will need to get to a press and yoke tune it. Reset your center shot and twist / un-twist the individual sides of the split yoke.

At full draw you will be able to look "up" your bow string and see that it is inline with the track of the cam. At rest, there will be a little cam lean.

 

[mt100gr.]

Add - a good tech will also reset the rest height to where it should be and address any vertical issues with the timing and nock height. Don't let the shop just run the rest up and down.

 

[itsTyrtruion]

Sounds like I have a lot of you tube videos to watch cause I pretty much done understand anything you said. Lol
Thanks tho


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jmez]

If you have a right tear you need to move the rest the other direction, away from the riser. Put the rest back to factory recommended centershot and then try moving it the other direction in small increments.

 

[SunShine]

These bows should not be hard to paper tune. Not sure what you're doing or not doing. I have heard the original Defiant #2 cams were an issue before they issued 2.1 cams. But if you have a Pro Defiant, it's a 2017 and should be perfect.

We have swapped spacers on Z cam bows that have made the world of difference.

As mentioned, your yoke will give you a tweak for left or right. Be cognizant of cam lean if you're twisting too much.

Also not sure if you set it up with string or limb stops. These bows have both options. I'd drawboard it to make sure you have tight cam coordination / orientation. Not sure of your arrow length but I've papered mine with less spine on 65 pounds CE Maxima 250's. They tune easy. I'd start from scratch once again as was suggested and make sure your form is solid. Your over draw length might impact on paper too. So stay in your shot as long as you can to get a clean arrow off the shelf.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[justin davis]

Make sure the bow is timed correctly.

Your rest needs to go left if you getting a right tear.

On hoyts I set the centershot (down the middle of the riser) and yoke tune. For a right tear your gonna need to take away twists from the left yoke and twists to the right.

Also you mentioned the draw length might be off? Correct draw length is a big thing for getting bareshafts to fly.

 

[Brendan]

First things first - Do you have a press and a draw board (Press needs to be certified for the Defiant) to do the tuning yourself? If not - Any local archery club members or friends who do? Have you asked for recommendations on pro-shops and/or tuners in the Reno area that you could trust?

Being that you bought the bow at a big box store, I wouldn't assume that the bow was set up correctly to start. To do that - you need someone who knows what they're doing, has an appropriate press, has a draw board. Unless you want to get them and learn yourself, this means finding and driving to a shop, or shipping your bow to someone who tunes them for a living and then making final adjustments when you broadhead tune (Ontarget7 is a member here and on AT and is very well known for this, but is usually super busy).

Another option is finding a Rokslider or AT member local (who knows what they're doing) and bribing them with beer or hunting gear to hep you out

 

[itsTyrtruion]

Thanks for all the suggestions.
I do not have a press,vice, draw board so finding a place that's reputable (or a Reno rokslider that needs beer fridge stocked) is the route I'll need. Anyone have recommendations?

Watched a ton of videos and looks simple enough to yoke tune if supplies are in order. I'm just bad at this and have the dexterity of a walrus.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ceng]

If your in doubt you could always send it to Shane Chuning. He's on here he's set up my bows and done an incredible Job. His username is ontarget7. I like tinkering with bows but don't have the time and want to have confidence in it being done right to optimize my time in the field. So for me it's just better value to send it to him. You might PM him.

 

[ceng]

Oh sorry I saw Brendan already mentioned him.

 

[Brendan]

Ok - being that you don't have the equipment - I would post a thread with a more descriptive title - something like "Looking for Pro Shop / Bow Tech Near Reno" here and/or on AT. I tend to trust the group here more, just because AT can be very hit or miss. You might find someone local who can help you out too. It's good to have a tech people trust, but to be honest, that's a big reason a lot of people here buy the gear and learn to tune on their own.

Second option - pick the closest "good" shop / tech you can find, be prepared to drive, make an appointment in advance and be prepared to spend a day there if needed. Just try to arrange it with them so they know you're coming from afar so someone can make time to tune the bow while you're there. Weekdays are usually better if you can swing it for something like this.

Or, just PM/email Shane / Ontarget7 if you can deal with shipping it and being without your bow for a while. Just a note to this approach - your bow will come back and *might* need small tweaks depending on how your form is compared to Shane's. He's pretty much a human hooter shooter, so if you grip / torque the bow a little differently you might still be a little off - but that could likely be corrected with the rest.

Last thing - you'll still need to figure out your draw length if you're not sure if you have it right, which is the only issue if you're shipping it out. I like Dudley's method to get close and then tweaking to get the string at the tip of your nose like he describes:

Proper Draw Length with John Dudley of Nock On - YouTube

 

[Tilzbow]

I live in Reno and can help you tune it as long as the cams are timed. I don't have the bow press attachments for the new Hoyt limbs so I can check the timing on my draw board but I won't be able to adjust it for you if it's off. That said we can set nock height, center shot and yoke tune and if the cams are timed it'll be shooting good for you. The only problem is finding a time that works. Shoot me a PM with your contact info and I'll get in touch with you in the next day or two and we can schedule a time.