Howa Mini Rifles, Builds, and Upgrades

[General RE LEE]

Wanna sell the factory bottom plastic and magazine?

Jay

Right lol

I had to go to eBay and luckily some guy was selling a brand new factory bottom plastic.

Bottom plastic works and hell, it also works as a barrier stop.

 

[dieselchessy]

Felt left out by the Tikkas and there recoil pins. So modified some Leupold Backcountry Rings for some XL recoil pins.
Also whilst on the tikka binge I created the Howikka (with a couple extra slots)
View attachment 845047View attachment 845048

The Backcountry rings I have for Kimber 8400’s have that same hang over the ejection port. Seems an odd design. Maybe for long eyepiece scopes?

 

[jpndave]

Wanna sell the factory bottom plastic and magazine?

Jay

Sure, shoot me a PM and I'll give you my contact. It's new, never fired pulled from a barreled action. Was going to list it on eBay when I had an idea where to price it.

 

[jpndave]

The Backcountry rings I have for Kimber 8400’s have that same hang over the ejection port. Seems an odd design. Maybe for long eyepiece scopes?

Kimber 84M is the same way. I actually bought two sets to get the offset correct on mine. One will need to be re-drilled.

 

[Te Hopo]

Felt left out by the Tikkas and there recoil pins. So modified some Leupold Backcountry Rings for some XL recoil pins.
Also whilst on the tikka binge I created the Howikka (with a couple extra slots)
View attachment 845047View attachment 845048

Mate that looks very cool with those action cuts.
Ever removed some metal from the underside? As there's a fair chunk of metal hidden away

 

[Stocky]

The Backcountry rings I have for Kimber 8400’s have that same hang over the ejection port. Seems an odd design. Maybe for long eyepiece scopes?

Would they overhang on a Remington 700? These are 700 rings but I just don't trust talleys. The backcountry are 7075 and definitely a bit beefier. I'll make a custom set at some stage i think.

 

[Stocky]

Mate that looks very cool with those action cuts.
Ever removed some metal from the underside? As there's a fair chunk of metal hidden away

Not a huge amount on the bottom the area under the from flat is the support area for the lugs and would cause issues when bedding. You could remove some but it would be exceptionally difficult and only a little here and there. If the was one good spot I'd have done it. I just did it primarily for looks since I was already milling it. Still has the exact same foot print. And fits flush in the factory inlets.

 

[dieselchessy]

Would they overhang on a Remington 700? These are 700 rings but I just don't trust talleys. The backcountry are 7075 and definitely a bit beefier. I'll make a custom set at some stage i think.

I don’t know about on a 700. I tend to use rails on those.

 

[BART74]

Bought a 20" 6ARC barreled action off Brownells and built this up. Dropped it in an Elf Owl chassis with a folding Black Collar stock. I also had the barrel fluted which actually made it lighter than the 22" sporter i have in 223. Not as light as id hoped for, but happy with how it turned out. It ended up weighing the same as my 20" tikka sitting in a HNT26 chassis with the same scope, but significantly cheaper to put together. View attachment 805368View attachment 805369

man i like that rig

 

[bard]

Looking to build a rig for my 8 year old and myself to use in 6arc. Going to put it in an Elf owl chassis. Is AR stock best to keep weight down? I was hoping to find an ar stock on the lighter side with a good amount of adjustability on length of pull with an adjustable cheek riser. My kid can't quite shoot with a normal sized stock. Hoping for some recommendations. If I order the AR stock adaptor I can still add a folding butt stock adaptor afterward if I still want it shorter? I have a sig cross but that is as close as I have gotten to anything resembling AR parts or knowledge. Also not sure on what barrel to go with. 22" is lighter but is there any noticeable difference on accuracy? better to go 20" and flute? I have an old vx2 4-12x40 I will throw on to start for hunting but maybe a 50mm athlon for long range. Also open to somewhat affordable recommendations to keep weight reasonable in case I take it sheep hunting but able to use on steel out to 1000.

 

[The Guide]

Looking to build a rig for my 8 year old and myself to use in 6arc. Going to put it in an Elf owl chassis. Is AR stock best to keep weight down? I was hoping to find an ar stock on the lighter side with a good amount of adjustability on length of pull with an adjustable cheek riser. My kid can't quite shoot with a normal sized stock. Hoping for some recommendations. If I order the AR stock adaptor I can still add a folding butt stock adaptor afterward if I still want it shorter? I have a sig cross but that is as close as I have gotten to anything resembling AR parts or knowledge. Also not sure on what barrel to go with. 22" is lighter but is there any noticeable difference on accuracy? better to go 20" and flute? I have an old vx2 4-12x40 I will throw on to start for hunting but maybe a 50mm athlon for long range. Also open to somewhat affordable recommendations to keep weight reasonable in case I take it sheep hunting but able to use on steel out to 1000.

I wouldn't get too invested into new stock for your boy unless you are buying the barreled action from Brownells. My son used the factory Houge stock at the age of 8 and is still using it at 14. Even if you had to chop an inch or two off the factory stock, it would be both cheaper and lighter than a chassis system. When you proof the system and make sure it is a shooter, you can chop the stock for him and use an over the butt slip-on Limbsaver butt pad to extend the stock an inch or so for you to shoot. If money isn't an issue you can go right to the Elf Owl but I'm not sure it is worth the squeeze.

Jay

 

[OneShot]

I wouldn't get too invested into new stock for your boy unless you are buying the barreled action from Brownells. My son used the factory Houge stock at the age of 8 and is still using it at 14. Even if you had to chop an inch or two off the factory stock, it would be both cheaper and lighter than a chassis system. When you proof the system and make sure it is a shooter, you can chop the stock for him and use an over the butt slip-on Limbsaver butt pad to extend the stock an inch or so for you to shoot. If money isn't an issue you can go right to the Elf Owl but I'm not sure it is worth the squeeze.

Jay

Exactly what I just did a couple weeks ago. Cut 1-1/4 inches off the factory stock. Fits my 7 year old very good now.

 

[bard]

I wouldn't get too invested into new stock for your boy unless you are buying the barreled action from Brownells. My son used the factory Houge stock at the age of 8 and is still using it at 14. Even if you had to chop an inch or two off the factory stock, it would be both cheaper and lighter than a chassis system. When you proof the system and make sure it is a shooter, you can chop the stock for him and use an over the butt slip-on Limbsaver butt pad to extend the stock an inch or so for you to shoot. If money isn't an issue you can go right to the Elf Owl but I'm not sure it is worth the squeeze.

Jay

I guess I should of worded my message a little differently. The gun is for me. Lol. I will just happen to build it to the size it will work for the boy. Be a great little deer gun for him and I can use it for long range. May be tempted to take it over my sig cross to the sheep hills in BC if it shoots a little better and comes in a little lighter

 

[Tbuckus]

Opinions would be appreciated..
I’m about to purchase a mini and am stuck between the 20” heavy and the 22” sporter barrel.
My plan is to cut the one I get down to 18” and use my Schythe Ti on it.
At 18” is there much of a weight difference between the two? Will the heavy barrel be able to handle 5/8-24 threads? Or would both need a thread adapter so that question is moot.
I figured I’d try out the factory barrel before going with ordering one of the prefits.

 

[Cantharellus]

Opinions would be appreciated..
I’m about to purchase a mini and am stuck between the 20” heavy and the 22” sporter barrel.
My plan is to cut the one I get down to 18” and use my Schythe Ti on it.
At 18” is there much of a weight difference between the two? Will the heavy barrel be able to handle 5/8-24 threads? Or would both need a thread adapter so that question is moot.
I figured I’d try out the factory barrel before going with ordering one of the prefits.

I don't know the weight or threading differences, but I asked the same questions a while back when deciding what to buy for a 6arc build. Most of the replies recommended the 22" sporter for the weight savings and better balance.

 

[BBob]

I’m about to purchase a mini and am stuck between the 20” heavy and the 22” sporter barrel.

All of the heavy barreled 20” length versions other than the .223 come threaded as 5/8-24 now. The .223’s all remain 1/2-28.

 

[The Guide]

Opinions would be appreciated..
I’m about to purchase a mini and am stuck between the 20” heavy and the 22” sporter barrel.
My plan is to cut the one I get down to 18” and use my Schythe Ti on it.
At 18” is there much of a weight difference between the two? Will the heavy barrel be able to handle 5/8-24 threads? Or would both need a thread adapter so that question is moot.
I figured I’d try out the factory barrel before going with ordering one of the prefits.

I think the 22" sporter would still be lighter than the 20" heavy barrel cut to 18" and threaded to 5/8-24. If you cut the 22" to 18", I do not think you will be able to thread it to 5/8-24 and have a shoulder as it is a very shallow taper and will most likely need to retain 1/2-28. Adding an adapter and using Rockset would be your best option if you require 5/8-24.

Jay

 

[Tbuckus]

I think the 22" sporter would still be lighter than the 20" heavy barrel cut to 18" and threaded to 5/8-24. If you cut the 22" to 18", I do not think you will be able to thread it to 5/8-24 and have a shoulder as it is a very shallow taper and will most likely need to retain 1/2-28. Adding an adapter and using Rockset would be your best option if you require 5/8-24.

Jay

5/8”.24 isn’t a deal breaker. I can order a 1/2-28 base for the Scythe or like you said just get a thread adapter.
Does anyone know the diameter at 18” on the 22” sporter?

 

[Natebonebusta]

5/8”.24 isn’t a deal breaker. I can order a 1/2-28 base for the Scythe or like you said just get a thread adapter.
Does anyone know the diameter at 18” on the 22” sporter?

Outside diameter of the pencil 22” barrel after being cut to 18.5” is .602”

I had mine rethreaded 1/2”x28

 

[BBob]

Does anyone know the diameter at 18” on the 22” sporter?

Mine is .610”