How to get started in Reloading?

[nighthawkf-117]

Hello!

I want to start reloading. Ive been saving factory brass for my 308 and 6.5 PRC. There is a lot of information on the google about what equipment to start with and such. How do I choose equipment that will last me and help me get started? I'm surprised there isn't a pinned post here with beginners info but maybe this could be help other people too.

 

[Wolfshead]

Be careful with the information you find in a google search.
Anyone can post about reloading and some shouldn’t.
Also, if you google me you’ll see I’m a French model….

When I started the first thing I bought was a couple loading manuals. A Lyman’s and a Hornady’s. You can get a lot of info from them about reloading and not just load data.
Others can be seen online like Barnes and Nosler.

Then I went with a single stage press and a set of dies for my caliber. A Lee classic cast and Lee ultimate die set.
You’ll need some calipers, I got mine at harbor freight about ten years ago and they are going strong.
That is a relatively inexpensive way to start, and if you search you may find some better deals.
You don’t need much to get started and to be honest I still am only using the same equipment now as when I started.
I have added other caliber die sets over time

As you move through hand loading you’ll start to see what you need and you can pick it up as needed.

That’s my recommendation, others may vary.

 

[serorem]

What are you hoping to get out of reloading? Is it for long range precision? Or do you just want decent, somewhat repeatable ammo? There’s a wide range of equipment out there and trust me, there are some rabbit holes with reloading you can go down. One place I would recommend you research is Panhandle Precision. Sam Millard is the gentleman’s name. He has a website and YouTube channel with some very helpful stuff.

 

[Sccritterkiller]

Used gear...you can find a single stage press and other gear cheaper used...once you figure out upgrade equipment as needed.

 

[SamsonMan22]

A reloading manual or two and someone experienced to ask for help go a long way. A friend on another forum gave me some pointers and would help me out trying to figure out pressure signs at first. After that you can find a lot of free published load data online and once you have loaded some you start to get an idea where you should be with different powders and bullets for a cartridge you have worked with a little. It’s easiest to select common components that are proven for a given cartridge when first starting out.

As far as equipment buy yourself some decent stuff to work with, if you end up being serious about it you won’t have to upgrade anytime soon. If you decide it’s not for you it’s easy enough to sell the stuff. A single stage press, scale, powder thrower, calipers, and some decent dies gets you started for the most part.

You will end up with a case trimmer and I would recommend some sort of dedicated priming tool to save yourself some time. Outside of the basic tools the things you buy additional are more about time savings, progressive press, power case trimmer, electronic scales, etc.

I load several thousand rounds a year with a forster co-ax, a forster priming tool, and a Harrells thrower I have dialed the process in as well as I can to be fast. I recently started loading progressive for some of it just to save time. The biggest upgrades I have added to my reloading equipment over the years has been a chronograph, a Giraud trimmer, a dedicated annealer, and now the progressive press none of which was truly needed at first.

 

[KyleR1985]

Painless load development (mine)

I have had multiple people ask me to lay out how I do load development being that what I do is different. Since Shaen @Shooter71 just rebarreled a Tikka 595 in 6XC I thought it would be easy to show how I do it. It’s a Master Sporter with a T3 lite profiled 20” barrel- keep in mind it is a T3...

rokslide.com

Read this.


Not to learn exactly what you need and how to do it.


But to learn that because you know nothing about reloading, getting in the weeds won’t make you or your gun a better shooter. This should be a very freeing feeling. It was for me.

It gave me the confidence that I won’t kill myself or waste money.

Get a single stage press, the dies you need, loading trays, priming tool, case lube, and a scale.

Get your components, find real load data not internet people data first, and get to it.


One caveat: if you’re not mechanically inclined, don’t understand in the abstract how guns and gun powder will kill you, and don’t own and use basic hand tools for every day stuff around the house - go take a reloading class. Either with a mentor or literally go pay for a class.

 

[rayporter]

buy 2 manuals and read then take baby steps to begin.

most of us have a ton of crap that we only used once.

 

[nighthawkf-117]

Thanks for the replys. Im really just looking to get decent ammo. I think the idea of loading your own ammo is cool and it would be rewarding to fill a tag with ammo I made. I also have a lot of brass hanging around it would be nice to get use out of.
I'll definitely buy a manual and read up. What's a list of the bare minimum gear I need to get started?

 

[TaperPin]

Thanks for the replys. Im really just looking to get decent ammo. I think the idea of loading your own ammo is cool and it would be rewarding to fill a tag with ammo I made. I also have a lot of brass hanging around it would be nice to get use out of.
I'll definitely buy a manual and read up. What's a list of the bare minimum gear I need to get started?

Almost every manual will show basic process and what is used. Most companies have a kit with most things - simply add dies and a shell holder and you’re all set. The world is full of people that want to sell you things, but I’d ignore it all until you’ve done a bit of basic stuff. Basic doesn’t mean bad, a basic set up will produce accurate ammo. Very few reloading tools ever wear out, so if it’s not damaged or missing parts, used gear works just fine.

 

[huntsd]

as a knewb reloader myself I can say it was very overwhelming to get into it. Put together a list of what you think you need. Put it on here and people will help. Then dive head first into it. The dive really helped me understand a lot more about it.

Its really fun and addicting.

PS you will not save money from factory ammo, but you can produce a much better product.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Lots of kits will be onsale around black friday so it might be a good time to buy then.

Starting out with a fresh batch of decent brass is nicer than reloading mixed headstamps imho. Also some factory loads are hot in soft brass and the primer pockets are trashed on that first firing, my buddy ran into that one with some factory 300wsm ammo.

 

[KyleR1985]

Buy a used cast steel press - they don’t go bad. Ignore their cosmetic appearance. It doesn’t matter.

take the 50-200 you save and spend it on powder and bullets.


I got a rockchucker and jr press used here shipped to my door for less than I’d pay for the rockchucker new.

 

[seand]

press, powder measure, scale, priming tool (or can use press), FL sizing die and seating die, case lube, dial or electronic calipers, and components. Steel wool works fine for cleaning brass in lieu of a tumbler.

a trimmer and chamfer tool may be needed unless you are okay with chucking brass when it gets long. WCT or lee trimmer is dirt cheap.

A headspace comparator is a really good addition have IMO to setup sizing dies but not essential. A loading block improves workflow.

A lee kit makes fine ammo and has most of what you need for less than $200.

 

[EastHumboldt]

As Seand says above, a Lee reloading kit will have almost everything you need. I started about five years ago. Since then I have upgraded to a better balance beam scale. (the scale that comes with the lee kIt is kind of cheap, but it works.). I also bought a second single stage press. That allows me to keep one press set up for de-capping and sizing, and another press set up for bullet seating.

A handheld priming tool is much faster than using the press imo.

I much prefer an analog manual caliper to the digital type. They don’t need batteries and they’re dead simple so nothing can really go wrong with them unless you drop it or bend it.

Be sure to get a press with a breech lock feature. This simplifies set up a lot between calibers.

Before you buy anything do a bunch of research. Get a reloading manual from one of the big companies and read the front section. Watch a bunch of YouTube videos. After a while, you’ll probably be able to sort out the BS from the good stuff.