How to break down a Elk Skull?

[J Ferry]

Hello all, been a lurker for quite awhile, but decided to finally sign up. Recently moved to Montana and this is going to be my first year I get to hunt as a resident and I am extremely excited. Just wondering how you guys break down a Bull's head to get it ready for a European style mount. I imagine getting rid of the hide, meat and eye balls, but what about the bottom jaw? Does it just cut off or do you need to break it off?

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks
Jim

 

[realunlucky]

Jaw cuts off. Much easier to get hide off skull cap before it dries out.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Skin the head off. A flat head screwdriver will make it much easier to get the hide away from the antler pedicles/bases. Once the hide is off, cut the lower jaw off and cut the eyes out.

Make sure you don't BOIL the skull. You want it just below simmering. You can use Borax, or order a powder from Van Dyke's that will really clean things up. Rinse well with cool water. You can cook it again with some Dawn dishsoap to degrease the bone marrow. Rinse again really well. I use hairdresser's peroxide and make a paper mache type layer on the skull to bleach it out really good.

 

[J Ferry]

Can the jaw be cut with a knife, or is a small saw better? And I think I'll have the skull beetle cleaned.

 

[LostArra]

The lower jaw is connected to the skull only by ligaments, muscle, tendons and the hide. A knife will do it.

 

[cuerro viejo]

You can pop the jaw off pretty easy. Just ligaments holding it.

 

[brewer427]

Can the jaw be cut with a knife, or is a small saw better? And I think I'll have the skull beetle cleaned.

A knife is all I use, I also get my skulls cleaned by beetles, don't remove all the meat and fat from the skull, because that's food for the beetles. My taxidermist asks me to leave the majority of the scraps on the skull.

 

[Mule]

One of the replies mentioned bleaching with peroxide. Quality skull prep uses dermistid beetles, as opposed to simmering. Beetle colonies are difficult or expensive to come by. The real difference is that the bugs eat all the tissue in the nasal without disturbing the fragile boney detail, that simmering and hand cleaning tends to destroy. If simmering, and teeth fall out, no big deal--just glue them back in once dry.

When it comes to bleaching skulls, if you mix a slurry of 30-40% peroxide (you get it from beauty supply stores) with magnesium carbonate (aka gymnastics chalk) available online if needed, and paint that thickly over every reachable crevice of the skull, and antler pedicles (keeping it off the antlers), it will achieve a very desirable outcome beyond simple peroxide. Leave the slurry to dry over several days to a week and brush it off with a stiff bristled brush, even a light pressured wire brush and using other items like dental tools (pointy tools) to pick the chalk from the minute cracks and divots--use compressed air to further blow out all the powder as it likes to linger if not forced away. At that point you can seal the bone with matte clear varnish spray, or leave it natural.

This is a little bit off topic, but wanted to edify the process for those that don't know how many taxidermists do the work.

 

[Jason Snyder]

One of the replies mentioned bleaching with peroxide. Quality skull prep uses dermistid beetles, as opposed to simmering. Beetle colonies are difficult or expensive to come by. The real difference is that the bugs eat all the tissue in the nasal without disturbing the fragile boney detail, that simmering and hand cleaning tends to destroy. If simmering, and teeth fall out, no big deal--just glue them back in once dry.

When it comes to bleaching skulls, if you mix a slurry of 30-40% peroxide (you get it from beauty supply stores) with magnesium carbonate (aka gymnastics chalk) available online if needed, and paint that thickly over every reachable crevice of the skull, and antler pedicles (keeping it off the antlers), it will achieve a very desirable outcome beyond simple peroxide. Leave the slurry to dry over several days to a week and brush it off with a stiff bristled brush, even a light pressured wire brush and using other items like dental tools (pointy tools) to pick the chalk from the minute cracks and divots--use compressed air to further blow out all the powder as it likes to linger if not forced away. At that point you can seal the bone with matte clear varnish spray, or leave it natural.

This is a little bit off topic, but wanted to edify the process for those that don't know how many taxidermists do the work.

Agreed, bugs do a much nicer job. Cooking at home is more economical.

Yes, I use the 30-40 peroxide, it's thick. I paint this on, put a layer of paper towel on, and paint another layer. Do this a couple of times, then wrap up in Saran wrap and leave it for a day or so. Peel off the layers and rinse well.

 

[ozmanbucks]

We are full of fire ants down here in GA they do a good job just takes a month or so. I would be happy to send you some.

 

[dieNqvrs]

If your gonna have a taxidermist do the skull leave as is, your paying for them to do the work.

Second maceration is the best DIY method if you can handle the smell for 10-14 days. It gets a good chunk of grease out. Very best way especially with big old Bears! Then degrease with heated soap water for a few weeks- months depending on bone thickness/specie. Follow up with peroxide bath/paste-wrap job and then seal if you want. Grease in skull is what causes them to get dingy yellow. Peroxide can't get this out. All skull projects are 3 steps, remove flesh, degrease, and then seal.

Don't ever boil/ simmer, it's the fastest way to ruin your skull, except for with a bullet or real chlorine bleach.

Beetles are meant for a business and pose many challenges and aren't cheaper for one head/DIY. But if a taxi uses them in they are legit as long as they don't boil/summer. Beetled skulls just take longer to get the grease out because of the bugs/process.

Ant/bugs/birds/sealice don't do the skull any favors! Staining from tannins in soils or total loss of skull!

Here is a Kodiak bear before, then after maceration -14 days in heated 5 gallon bucket of water and then after degreased, whitened and sealed. .

 

[J Ferry]

If your gonna have a taxidermist do the skull leave as is, your paying for them to do the work.

Should I just take the whole head in? Or should I at least skin it and remove the bottom jaw? I don't know if there's one way or another that taxidermist prefers it.

Thanks for all the replies guys, I really appreciate it.

 

[dieNqvrs]

Should I just take the whole head in? Or should I at least skin it and remove the bottom jaw? I don't know if there's one way or another that taxidermist prefers it.

Thanks for all the replies guys, I really appreciate it.

Contact your taxi of preference and ask. Fresh is best for a taxi. But I would just take whole head in.

 

[crzy_cntryby]

When you skin out the head remember the cheeks are great table fare!