How much higher wil a .270 shoot@12,000 feet????

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TxLite

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Velocities listed on the box are essentially useless for shooting anything that requires dialing or holdovers as far as I’m concerned. Your rifle could be 150fps off from theirs depending on ammunition lot #, barrel length, and just variations in general. If you plan on shooting it at distance I’d figure out your actual velocities
 
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I have 2 buddies who have killed them with bows. There are 50 legal rams in the whites. I think I can make a stalk inside 300.
 

S-3 ranch

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2.5 inch high @ 100
No fumbling for a laser. No smartphone apps. No button pushing. No turret dialing. Just aim, shoot, and break out the skinning knife.
usually a 130-grain spire point from a 270 Winchester at about 3,000 fps — would peak no more than 4 inches above point-of-aim (POA) at about 180 yards, strike POA at about 270 yards, fall 2 or 3 inches below POA at 300 yards, and drop about 14 inches below POA at 400 yards. Depending on bullet B.C., drop at 500 yards might be 32 to 36 inches.

i‘m old school and don’t buy scopes with turrets, being a outfitter
I have seen lots of wasted opportunities with guys, dialing or ranging
and the animal walks out of sight or back in the herd
 

SDHNTR

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2.5 inch high @ 100
No fumbling for a laser. No smartphone apps. No button pushing. No turret dialing. Just aim, shoot, and break out the skinning knife.
usually a 130-grain spire point from a 270 Winchester at about 3,000 fps — would peak no more than 4 inches above point-of-aim (POA) at about 180 yards, strike POA at about 270 yards, fall 2 or 3 inches below POA at 300 yards, and drop about 14 inches below POA at 400 yards. Depending on bullet B.C., drop at 500 yards might be 32 to 36 inches.

i‘m old school and don’t buy scopes with turrets, being a outfitter
I have seen lots of wasted opportunities with guys, dialing or ranging
and the animal walks out of sight or back in the herd
Absolutely nothing wrong with that. And the OP has made it clear that’s his preference too. It’s still fine to want to hunt that way, even if not “cool” anymore.

Just be prepared to accept the possibility that a 175” ram walks up and over a ridge line and out of your life at 480 yards.

FWIW, I killed my desert ram (after 16 days of bowhunting and a pregnant wife with a 2 yr old and expired patience) with a wood stocked Win M70 in .270win. At 277 yards coincidentally. One shot.
 

JFK

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These guys are trying to steer you in the right direction. Without any confirmed, known variables you are flying blind. You can shoot at the elevation you plan to hunt in, then true the velocity to match actual drop data. Second best option would be to get a confirmed (not on the box) muzzle velocity, then confirm drops at a lower elevation. Once you have solid data the apps do a decent job of accounting for elevation changes. For a once in a lifetime tag like that I’d be doing the necessary work to have full confidence in my rifle.
 
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Deleted member 8-15-23

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My son will have my backup .308. Sako manlicher.
 
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Thx for the input, I will be@pala many times out to 500. My dad built the gun for me and I killed my first bull with it in 70'. He has 2 slams, for tradition sake this is the gun. Kanjar trigger, fajen stock.
 

SDHNTR

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Thx for the input, I will be@pala many times out to 500. My dad built the gun for me and I killed my first bull with it in 70'. He has 2 slams, for tradition sake this is the gun. Kanjar trigger, fajen stock.
That’s good, I go to Pala too. At a minimal level, you could spruce it up with a much better scope choice, if so inclined.

I genuinely mean no offense by saying this, but how we used to hunt just a few years ago means nothing now. We used to drive carbureted automobiles with drum brakes too. If you want to make the best of this very special tag, there are additional steps you could take. Steps that it seems you may be unaware of currently. Hunting has come a loooonnnngggg way in the last 10 years. Not saying it’s absolutely necessary as the old way can still work too, but if you wanted to take advantage of all that is available to you to make the most of the rarest tag in North America, you could. And we’ll help you. I tried again.

Curious, who’s your guide?
 
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If your guide were to ask you “what is the furthest distance you are willing to take a shot at?” what would be your reply? If it’s 300yds and under I would zero your rifle 200yds at elevation and call it good. If your willing to shoot beyond 300 you can get the correct bullet coefficient of the bullet and buy a chronograph and when you zero in your rifle at elevation measure the velocity while you do so and punch in the variables into a ballistic calculator and you are good to go.

I myself have not been on a guided hunt let alone rifle hunt but the people that I know that have each person bow or firearm the guide had watched them to make sure they can shoot and hit what they are shooting at and is properly zeroed in. Is that a common practice people that have taken guided hunts did they have you zero your weapon right there in front of them before they were taken hunting?
 

SDHNTR

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If your guide were to ask you “what is the furthest distance you are willing to take a shot at?” what would be your reply? If it’s 300yds and under I would zero your rifle 200yds at elevation and call it good. If your willing to shoot beyond 300 you can get the correct bullet coefficient of the bullet and buy a chronograph and when you zero in your rifle at elevation measure the velocity while you do so and punch in the variables into a ballistic calculator and you are good to go.

I myself have not been on a guided hunt let alone rifle hunt but the people that I know that have each person bow or firearm the guide had watched them to make sure they can shoot and hit what they are shooting at and is properly zeroed in. Is that a common practice people that have taken guided hunts did they have you zero your weapon right there in front of them before they were taken hunting?
I drew a really good NV elk tag last year. Late season. I also drew a Shiras moose tag. Lucky for sure, but I knew my time would be limited and I wanted to focus on the moose. I hunted the moose tag (successfully) DIY. When it came to the elk tag, I had no first hand knowledge of the unit and limited time so I hired a guide. When I got there I was blown away by how the hunt would play out. Hunting burn areas, 8-12” of old crunchy snow on the ground, cross canyon shots. I thought we’d be hunting down low on easy alfalfa fields. Nope, not even close. My guide said his late hunts are generally 5-700 yard shots. I was prepared (killed my bull at 620) but while there I listened to the guide take a couple of phone calls from other hunters who showed up DIY and wanted to hire him once they realized they were un prepared and under gunned. Both conversations were with guys and traditional type .270’s and 30-06. Nothing wrong with those at all, but they expected a “typical” hunt of 1-300 yd type shots. That wasn’t happening, especially not if you wanted to kill the caliber of bull to do the tag justice. My guide told me at least 3/4 of their hunters end up using their guns. Hunting has changed.
 
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If your guide were to ask you “what is the furthest distance you are willing to take a shot at?” what would be your reply? If it’s 300yds and under I would zero your rifle 200yds at elevation and call it good. If your willing to shoot beyond 300 you can get the correct bullet coefficient of the bullet and buy a chronograph and when you zero in your rifle at elevation measure the velocity while you do so and punch in the variables into a ballistic calculator and you are good to go.

I myself have not been on a guided hunt let alone rifle hunt but the people that I know that have each person bow or firearm the guide had watched them to make sure they can shoot and hit what they are shooting at and is properly zeroed in. Is that a common practice people that have taken guided hunts did they have you zero your weapon right there in front of them before they were taken hunting?
My guide said my shot will be 200 to 300 yards.
 
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