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OP
Deleted member 8-15-23
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BoxIs your MV 2,900 fps or is that what it says on the box?
BoxIs your MV 2,900 fps or is that what it says on the box?
Figured. That doesn’t really tell you anything useful. If you want to put together a dope chart for shooting to 500 yards, you need to know the actual velocity that load shoots out of your rifle.
Velocities listed on the box are essentially useless for shooting anything that requires dialing or holdovers as far as I’m concerned. Your rifle could be 150fps off from theirs depending on ammunition lot #, barrel length, and just variations in general. If you plan on shooting it at distance I’d figure out your actual velocities
Absolutely nothing wrong with that. And the OP has made it clear that’s his preference too. It’s still fine to want to hunt that way, even if not “cool” anymore.2.5 inch high @ 100
No fumbling for a laser. No smartphone apps. No button pushing. No turret dialing. Just aim, shoot, and break out the skinning knife.
usually a 130-grain spire point from a 270 Winchester at about 3,000 fps — would peak no more than 4 inches above point-of-aim (POA) at about 180 yards, strike POA at about 270 yards, fall 2 or 3 inches below POA at 300 yards, and drop about 14 inches below POA at 400 yards. Depending on bullet B.C., drop at 500 yards might be 32 to 36 inches.
i‘m old school and don’t buy scopes with turrets, being a outfitter
I have seen lots of wasted opportunities with guys, dialing or ranging
and the animal walks out of sight or back in the herd
Backups are good, but that’s probably not the best tool for the job.My son will have my backup .308. Sako manlicher.
That’s good, I go to Pala too. At a minimal level, you could spruce it up with a much better scope choice, if so inclined.Thx for the input, I will be@pala many times out to 500. My dad built the gun for me and I killed my first bull with it in 70'. He has 2 slams, for tradition sake this is the gun. Kanjar trigger, fajen stock.
I’m not gonna bite. Do you own a Mannlicher? I do.What is the best tool?
26 nosler? VS ?
I drew a really good NV elk tag last year. Late season. I also drew a Shiras moose tag. Lucky for sure, but I knew my time would be limited and I wanted to focus on the moose. I hunted the moose tag (successfully) DIY. When it came to the elk tag, I had no first hand knowledge of the unit and limited time so I hired a guide. When I got there I was blown away by how the hunt would play out. Hunting burn areas, 8-12” of old crunchy snow on the ground, cross canyon shots. I thought we’d be hunting down low on easy alfalfa fields. Nope, not even close. My guide said his late hunts are generally 5-700 yard shots. I was prepared (killed my bull at 620) but while there I listened to the guide take a couple of phone calls from other hunters who showed up DIY and wanted to hire him once they realized they were un prepared and under gunned. Both conversations were with guys and traditional type .270’s and 30-06. Nothing wrong with those at all, but they expected a “typical” hunt of 1-300 yd type shots. That wasn’t happening, especially not if you wanted to kill the caliber of bull to do the tag justice. My guide told me at least 3/4 of their hunters end up using their guns. Hunting has changed.If your guide were to ask you “what is the furthest distance you are willing to take a shot at?” what would be your reply? If it’s 300yds and under I would zero your rifle 200yds at elevation and call it good. If your willing to shoot beyond 300 you can get the correct bullet coefficient of the bullet and buy a chronograph and when you zero in your rifle at elevation measure the velocity while you do so and punch in the variables into a ballistic calculator and you are good to go.
I myself have not been on a guided hunt let alone rifle hunt but the people that I know that have each person bow or firearm the guide had watched them to make sure they can shoot and hit what they are shooting at and is properly zeroed in. Is that a common practice people that have taken guided hunts did they have you zero your weapon right there in front of them before they were taken hunting?
My guide said my shot will be 200 to 300 yards.If your guide were to ask you “what is the furthest distance you are willing to take a shot at?” what would be your reply? If it’s 300yds and under I would zero your rifle 200yds at elevation and call it good. If your willing to shoot beyond 300 you can get the correct bullet coefficient of the bullet and buy a chronograph and when you zero in your rifle at elevation measure the velocity while you do so and punch in the variables into a ballistic calculator and you are good to go.
I myself have not been on a guided hunt let alone rifle hunt but the people that I know that have each person bow or firearm the guide had watched them to make sure they can shoot and hit what they are shooting at and is properly zeroed in. Is that a common practice people that have taken guided hunts did they have you zero your weapon right there in front of them before they were taken hunting?