How many of us regularly shoot at long distance for practice?

[aMurderOfCrows]

I shoot at 100 or more at least once a week.

 

[OutdoorAg]

Since slider sights got introduced I wonder how many of the younger guys know how to stack pins?

I've only ever shot a slider, so yeah, I've have no clue what pin stacking means.

 

[sickles107]

Need to shoot where you are comfortable watching your float

Having a very small aiming point, especially one that's a different color can be a target picture nightmare.

I have found this to be very important.

I would say my my shot process is a mix of command and surprise. I increase pressure on the bow/release while the pin float settles within the target. The more I shoot, the tighter my pin float gets.

Things always go sideways when I try to command shoot on a small dot with big pin float.

Every year a few weeks before archery antelope, I shoot very comfortably out to 100. But the process to get there always follows something like this.

• Late summer - tight pin float / tight groups
• Fall - shoot enough to try to maintain the "perishable pin float" throughout season, then eventually set the bow down, pickup rifle
• Winter - don't shoot bow much, noticeable looser pin float when shooting dots in garage.
• Spring - new strings, begin tweeking and tuning setup, ramping up shooting frequency.
• Late spring / early summer - shooting alot and fine tuning setup. Backing up target (smaller dot) as pin float tightens every few weeks.
• Late summer - tight pin float, tight groups.

Recently began to think of float in terms of moa. 10in @ 100 is 10moa. That's usually the goal by late summer. I have a rhino block with a 6in spray paint dot. May start spring shooting 6" @ 30 = 20moa, then 6" @ 40 = 15moa. then 6" @ 50 = 12moa. Then backup to 6" @ 60 for 10moa. Once confident there, shoot a big 365 target with 10" dot @ 100. Still 10moa like 6" @ 60, but opens up a few more things to improve on with feel and form.

Can also run the numbers to maintain same moa at closer range. Ie holding on a .5" dot in the garage at 5 yards is 10moa.

Has seamed to work very well for me over the years. Biggest thing is shooting mid hunting season, as that tight pin float seams to be very perishable. At least for me when working up to it that way. I'm setting up a dedicated low poundage bow this winter to be able to get more reps in the garage year round to attempt to combat that.

 

[jsweat99]

Practice regularly around 60-80 yards 2-3 months before season. Never expect to takes shots in that range but it’s more enjoyable than 20-40 yard ranges. Also as he mentioned above learning to deal with pin float is something you get good at with those distances.

 

[Billy Goat]

I have found this to be very important.

I would say my my shot process is a mix of command and surprise. I increase pressure on the bow/release while the pin float settles within the target. The more I shoot, the tighter my pin float gets.

Things always go sideways when I try to command shoot on a small dot with big pin float.

Every year a few weeks before archery antelope, I shoot very comfortably out to 100. But the process to get there always follows something like this.

• Late summer - tight pin float / tight groups
• Fall - shoot enough to try to maintain the "perishable pin float" throughout season, then eventually set the bow down, pickup rifle
• Winter - don't shoot bow much, noticeable looser pin float when shooting dots in garage.
• Spring - new strings, begin tweeking and tuning setup, ramping up shooting frequency.
• Late spring / early summer - shooting alot and fine tuning setup. Backing up target (smaller dot) as pin float tightens every few weeks.
• Late summer - tight pin float, tight groups.

Recently began to think of float in terms of moa. 10in @ 100 is 10moa. That's usually the goal by late summer. I have a rhino block with a 6in spray paint dot. May start spring shooting 6" @ 30 = 20moa, then 6" @ 40 = 15moa. then 6" @ 50 = 12moa. Then backup to 6" @ 60 for 10moa. Once confident there, shoot a big 365 target with 10" dot @ 100. Still 10moa like 6" @ 60, but opens up a few more things to improve on with feel and form.

Can also run the numbers to maintain same moa at closer range. Ie holding on a .5" dot in the garage at 5 yards is 10moa.

Has seamed to work very well for me over the years. Biggest thing is shooting mid hunting season, as that tight pin float seams to be very perishable. At least for me when working up to it that way. I'm setting up a dedicated low poundage bow this winter to be able to get more reps in the garage year round to attempt to combat that.

I'm in the period where my shooting is the worst. Time I spend shooting was taken up by hunting, so now I'm out of shape, float is terrible, working to get back into proper shooting shape, but getting older makes that a much longer process unfortunately.

That, and it's cold, hate shooting in the cold. Try to go to an archery club few times a week, shoot those tiny x's inside, but I swear you gotta be brain dead to be good at those.

 

[Archery Ninja]

I practice up to 110 just encase but stick to under 70 for the most part. Took one shot at a buck over 70 one time. It's nice to go out as far as you feel comfortable. The time will come that you wish you where set up to shoot a long shot. Always ethical obviously. Ethical is subjective to how far you can ethically shoot.

 

[MallardSX2]

I start shooting at 1 yard and move back to 60 stopping at odd intervals along the way.

95% of bow hunters or more have no idea where their bow hits at the point blank 1 yard line.

They know
10
20
30
40
100
120

Before anyone laugh about this style… Do you know where your arrow hits at point blank, when a deer is directly below you at “0” yards away? Shooting down a cliff or from a stand.

Bowhunter of 30 years, shot a lot of animals with my bow and my average shot is under 15 yards.

Trust me, it’s important to know what your bow does at point blank range as well….probably more important from my experiences. Lol

 

[camping1601]

Most of practice time is at 80 because that's as far as I can shoot. As the season nears I'll practice random distances by walking to and from a target ranging each shot and adjusting the slider. I'll also do this with my slider set at 30 not making any adjustments but practicing hold over and unders.

 

[Roughneck]

I usually on shoot 80-100 yards unless the wind is crazy. Shooting long distance is the most fun with a compound. If I want to shoot close I grab my stick bows

 

[Szwampdonkey]

Never as it’s pointless and contrary to popular sentiment it doesn’t make you better at actual hunting distances.

I shoot 30 and in, never further. Why? Because i don’t shoot at deer ever outside of 30 with my average no doubt being quite a bit less than that, prob 15-20. So why would i waste time shooting at 80 when the goal of practicing is to be proficient at the shots you’ll be making in hunting scenarios?

I’m actually doing the “one shot a day” method starting this year. Just grab your bow, walk to any point from 10 to 30 yards without ranging it, take one shot making it count like it’s that one shot you’re going to get on a trophy buck, drill it and done. Best way to become proficient at replicating what you need to do in the field imo without redos or over practicing which erodes from.

 

[Scoot]

Never as it’s pointless and contrary to popular sentiment it doesn’t make you better at actual hunting distances.

I couldn't disagree more. There's no doubt that shooting at long distance has made me a better shooter at shorter distance, as it's honed my form and shot process. Maybe that hasn't been the case for you, or maybe you've never shot at those distances because of what you believe about it- not sure.

I know a lot of people who have had the same experience as me though (many of whom have posted in this thread)- shooting at long distance has improved their shooting in general. ...and... that doesn't mean I shoot at critters at long distance... I do totally agree that the goal of archery is to get close and take close shots, and that's how I hunt. The vast majority of animals (probably around 90%) I've taken have been top pin shots, and that's exactly how I like it!

 

[TX_hunter]

Most of my shooting is done between 80-120 yards.

On days with no wind or when I'm verifying my sight tape I'll take it to 150ish, where I generally run out of clearance.

It makes close shots seem much easier.

 

[Szwampdonkey]

I couldn't disagree more. There's no doubt that shooting at long distance has made me a better shooter at shorter distance, as it's honed my form and shot process. Maybe that hasn't been the case for you, or maybe you've never shot at those distances because of what you believe about it- not sure.

I know a lot of people who have had the same experience as me though (many of whom have posted in this thread)- shooting at long distance has improved their shooting in general. ...and... that doesn't mean I shoot at critters at long distance... I do totally agree that the goal of archery is to get close and take close shots, and that's how I hunt. The vast majority of animals (probably around 90%) I've taken have been top pin shots, and that's exactly how I like it!

I’d argue it’s just the practice makes you better, period. Focus on consistent form, anchor, and follow through to the point you do the same thing every time and your success/accuracy on game would be identical if you practice at 30 and under. The idea you need to shoot at 75-80 to be good at 20 is a newfangled idea that didn’t exist 25-30 years ago. Like a lot of things nowadays it is a a fad or belief grown from social media/forum/Utube without any concrete data to support. It’s not wrong to do that mind you it’s just not necessary as there have been lights out archers for decades who never heard of such a thing as shooting bows at 80 yards.

Im certainly not trying to tell you not to shoot at 80 if that’s what you like to do.

 

[Scoot]

I’d argue it’s just the practice makes you better, period. Focus on consistent form, anchor, and follow through to the point you do the same thing every time and your success/accuracy on game would be identical if you practice at 30 and under.

I understand what you're saying, I just don't agree. I've shot about 11 katillion (this may be a totally fictional number, but you know what I mean) arrows in my life. I only hunt with a bow and I've shot a bow for almost half-a-century now and I shoot a lot. To say I was at a ceiling when I got a sliding sight and started shooting long range would be an understatement. Once I did that, my shooting improved markedly (at all distances, including closer shots). I've seen this play out with many friends too. Also, I tend to shoot shorter distances in the spring and only bust out the longer range shooting around June. Each year, once I start shooting at 100 yards, my shooting improves.

The idea you need to shoot at 75-80 to be good at 20 is a newfangled idea that didn’t exist 25-30 years ago. Like a lot of things nowadays it is a a fad or belief grown from social media/forum/Utube without any concrete data to support.

I certainly agree that you don't need to shoot at long range to be a good shot at 20. However, I'd argue that most people would see improvement if they did. Regarding "concrete data", where are you going to get this kind of data? There isn't any, I agree. However, that doesn't discount my experience completely. Also, there are no double blind, placebo controlled studies (providing "concrete data") that jumping out of an airplane without a parachute is worse for your health than with a parachute, but I'm pretty sure I have a solid opinion on that topic without the data.

I have no data, but I have my personal experience on the topic. I also have the experience of about a dozen others that says it improves one's ability to shoot at any distance. I also have experience that shooting at only short distance does help (like I do in the spring; practice helps regardless of distance), but shooting at longer distances helps more (like I do in June-August).

Last thing- if shooting at long distance doesn't help you shoot better, that's totally cool by me. However, it does help a lot of people to shoot better (others in this thread are are also suggesting this too, not just me). Is it necessary to kill at deer at 20 yards? Heck no, but it's helped my shooting quite a bit.

FYI- not trying to have a pi$$ing match with you, Szwampy. I have no issue with you having a different take and I respect your opinion on the matter. I don't agree, but that's ok by me- we don't have to agree! Hopefully you feel similarly.

 

[Szwampdonkey]

I don't agree, but that's ok by me- we don't have to agree! Hopefully you feel similarly.

You bet man

 

[Live_weighT34]

You’ll get just as good of practice shooting at 20 yards while aiming for the head of a golf tee as you will at 120 aiming for an 8” circle or 3d vitals.

However you should still be shooting at varied ranges/light/terrain every chance you get.

 

[Tilzbow]

I can say with 100% certainty that long range shooting has improved my overall shooting ability. Same with shooting broadheads at smaller broadhead targets to overcome the nervousness of blowing up an expensive arrow. Same with shooting bareshafts at 30-40 yards to verify and reinforce a torque free grip. Same with shooting off one knee, sitting in the dirt, twisting my upper body into an uncomfortable position, shooting up, down and side hill and so on.

 

[Speaks]

At home I can only get to around 45 yards, used to shoot at a club where 80 was very common and could get to 100 being creative. Not sure the extra 20 did much but 80 really helped me I think.

 

[diamond10x]

April to September shoot 99% of the time 70-110 yards at the house. The rest the year, October through April, there is too much snow in the yard and on my range that I usually shoot a couple indoor winter leagues to keep the muscle memory and also enjoy a little competition.

Along with shooting distance, I do a lot of hunting type scenario practicing, shooting in different positions, drawing different ways, etc as anyone who has bow hunted knows things never go how they do on the range at home in the yard.

 

[Cliffy65]

I've always been told this but never really found it helpful, I'm curious if other people do. Past a certain distance I can't aim at a patch of fur or even see minor details on a deer anyway, I frame it in reference to the whole animal.

This lines up with my experience more. I can shoot the center of a large target well, but if I'm trying to shoot a small spot at the same distance and my pin mostly covers it... I just end up fighting with my pin and punching the trigger.

I'm a decent shot but definitely not winning any tournaments, do better archers do things differently?

Each to their own.

Shooting at a tennis ball sized yellow circle has always been ridiculous to me.
1. The pins get lost in it. This may be worse for me than others due to being red green colourblind.
2. I will never be content with a tennis ball sized group for anything under 60m, including fixed blades, so why would I aim at that? Aiming small will expose an arrow that needs nock tuning or even discarding. It only occurs 1 arrow out of 2 or 3 dozen, but if it doesn’t cut the tee consistently after nock tuning (and what I call collar tuning as nearly all my bows are set up for .166 shafts), it doesn’t go in the quiver. That arrow will be used to settle strings.
3. I hunt Chital (Axis), the ones with the little white spots. Pick a spot.
4. If you get target panic aiming at a small point on a foam box, your brain will go on a holiday when faced with a shot on the buck/bull of a lifetime. All that becomes exaggerated when you’re aiming something with a rack and a heartbeat. The animal will suffer the consequences for the archer not addressing target panic in the off season.

I’ve helped a tonne of guys that had horrendous target panic, handfuls of them couldn’t even hit the Rinehart 18in1 target twice in a row at 20m. No joke. One poor bloke had severe PTSD to deal with which made a lot of things in life impossible for him and thought archery and hunting would be a release from it, until the target panic set in and he was about to give it up. He ended up cutting a 1” tape line with most shots at 60m while tuning his setup a couple weeks later. Legend.

Blank bail shooting is perfect for shot execution, but nothing on accuracy. Alternate between the two.

I struggle to think of any other example in life where the best course of action after we identify a problem, is to go in reverse until we don’t see the problem.

Like I started the reply with - each to their own.