How many of us regularly shoot at long distance for practice?

[aMurderOfCrows]

I shoot at 100 or more at least once a week.

 

[OutdoorAg]

Since slider sights got introduced I wonder how many of the younger guys know how to stack pins?

I've only ever shot a slider, so yeah, I've have no clue what pin stacking means.

 

[sickles107]

Need to shoot where you are comfortable watching your float

Having a very small aiming point, especially one that's a different color can be a target picture nightmare.

I have found this to be very important.

I would say my my shot process is a mix of command and surprise. I increase pressure on the bow/release while the pin float settles within the target. The more I shoot, the tighter my pin float gets.

Things always go sideways when I try to command shoot on a small dot with big pin float.

Every year a few weeks before archery antelope, I shoot very comfortably out to 100. But the process to get there always follows something like this.

• Late summer - tight pin float / tight groups
• Fall - shoot enough to try to maintain the "perishable pin float" throughout season, then eventually set the bow down, pickup rifle
• Winter - don't shoot bow much, noticeable looser pin float when shooting dots in garage.
• Spring - new strings, begin tweeking and tuning setup, ramping up shooting frequency.
• Late spring / early summer - shooting alot and fine tuning setup. Backing up target (smaller dot) as pin float tightens every few weeks.
• Late summer - tight pin float, tight groups.

Recently began to think of float in terms of moa. 10in @ 100 is 10moa. That's usually the goal by late summer. I have a rhino block with a 6in spray paint dot. May start spring shooting 6" @ 30 = 20moa, then 6" @ 40 = 15moa. then 6" @ 50 = 12moa. Then backup to 6" @ 60 for 10moa. Once confident there, shoot a big 365 target with 10" dot @ 100. Still 10moa like 6" @ 60, but opens up a few more things to improve on with feel and form.

Can also run the numbers to maintain same moa at closer range. Ie holding on a .5" dot in the garage at 5 yards is 10moa.

Has seamed to work very well for me over the years. Biggest thing is shooting mid hunting season, as that tight pin float seams to be very perishable. At least for me when working up to it that way. I'm setting up a dedicated low poundage bow this winter to be able to get more reps in the garage year round to attempt to combat that.

 

[jsweat99]

Practice regularly around 60-80 yards 2-3 months before season. Never expect to takes shots in that range but it’s more enjoyable than 20-40 yard ranges. Also as he mentioned above learning to deal with pin float is something you get good at with those distances.

 

[Billy Goat]

I have found this to be very important.

I would say my my shot process is a mix of command and surprise. I increase pressure on the bow/release while the pin float settles within the target. The more I shoot, the tighter my pin float gets.

Things always go sideways when I try to command shoot on a small dot with big pin float.

Every year a few weeks before archery antelope, I shoot very comfortably out to 100. But the process to get there always follows something like this.

• Late summer - tight pin float / tight groups
• Fall - shoot enough to try to maintain the "perishable pin float" throughout season, then eventually set the bow down, pickup rifle
• Winter - don't shoot bow much, noticeable looser pin float when shooting dots in garage.
• Spring - new strings, begin tweeking and tuning setup, ramping up shooting frequency.
• Late spring / early summer - shooting alot and fine tuning setup. Backing up target (smaller dot) as pin float tightens every few weeks.
• Late summer - tight pin float, tight groups.

Recently began to think of float in terms of moa. 10in @ 100 is 10moa. That's usually the goal by late summer. I have a rhino block with a 6in spray paint dot. May start spring shooting 6" @ 30 = 20moa, then 6" @ 40 = 15moa. then 6" @ 50 = 12moa. Then backup to 6" @ 60 for 10moa. Once confident there, shoot a big 365 target with 10" dot @ 100. Still 10moa like 6" @ 60, but opens up a few more things to improve on with feel and form.

Can also run the numbers to maintain same moa at closer range. Ie holding on a .5" dot in the garage at 5 yards is 10moa.

Has seamed to work very well for me over the years. Biggest thing is shooting mid hunting season, as that tight pin float seams to be very perishable. At least for me when working up to it that way. I'm setting up a dedicated low poundage bow this winter to be able to get more reps in the garage year round to attempt to combat that.

I'm in the period where my shooting is the worst. Time I spend shooting was taken up by hunting, so now I'm out of shape, float is terrible, working to get back into proper shooting shape, but getting older makes that a much longer process unfortunately.

That, and it's cold, hate shooting in the cold. Try to go to an archery club few times a week, shoot those tiny x's inside, but I swear you gotta be brain dead to be good at those.

 

[Archery Ninja]

I practice up to 110 just encase but stick to under 70 for the most part. Took one shot at a buck over 70 one time. It's nice to go out as far as you feel comfortable. The time will come that you wish you where set up to shoot a long shot. Always ethical obviously. Ethical is subjective to how far you can ethically shoot.

 

[MallardSX2]

I start shooting at 1 yard and move back to 60 stopping at odd intervals along the way.

95% of bow hunters or more have no idea where their bow hits at the point blank 1 yard line.

They know
10
20
30
40
100
120

Before anyone laugh about this style… Do you know where your arrow hits at point blank, when a deer is directly below you at “0” yards away? Shooting down a cliff or from a stand.

Bowhunter of 30 years, shot a lot of animals with my bow and my average shot is under 15 yards.

Trust me, it’s important to know what your bow does at point blank range as well….probably more important from my experiences. Lol