How light can you get a tikka?

@ReaptheHeat thanks a ton for those weights.

Action is 1lb 3oz? I thought folks were saying its 30oz? Or does 30oz include the mag, screws and bottom metal?

I have mine slathered in devcon right now bedding it in that^ stock, so I can weigh it later when I pull it out.
 
@ReaptheHeat thanks a ton for those weights.

Action is 1lb 3oz? I thought folks were saying its 30oz? Or does 30oz include the mag, screws and bottom metal?

I have mine slathered in devcon right now bedding it in that^ stock, so I can weigh it later when I pull it out.
I am betting that is without the bolt.
 
@ReaptheHeat thanks a ton for those weights.

Action is 1lb 3oz? I thought folks were saying its 30oz? Or does 30oz include the mag, screws and bottom metal?

I have mine slathered in devcon right now bedding it in that^ stock, so I can weigh it later when I pull it out.
The action I weighed is just the trigger and the action housing. No bolt or bottom "metal", screws. etc. Merely weighed to make a comparison to my superlite barrel still on an action.

I just weighed the bottom metal, magazine, trigger, action screws, bolt, and housing = 32 oz. BUT, I have a titanium bolt knob and handle. I reckon stock is 32.5 oz or so. Bear in mind I'm on a kitchen scale haha. Let me know if you need any other weights.
 
Just put all my lightest weight tikka components together. Tikka t3 308 22" factory barrel. Stockys vg2, burris ff2 in talley lightweights, srs 6" arca/pic rail
6lbs 12.2 Oz with no mag.
 
Oregunsmithing LRH with heavy micarta butt plate, Backstop recoil pad, QD cups and two Spartan Gunsmith adapters = 25 oz.
Do you like the Backstop pad? The fact it is plastic and dead straight (rather than curved) suggests to me that getting it mounted to the shoulder would feel weird?

I am open minded which is why I am asking.
 
It's squishy enough (in the first layer) to conform to my shoulder pocket. Mine was spec'd for 6.5 CM in a ~8# rifle, can't speak for other configurations they offer.
 
Posting these for posterity as Im assembling and disassembling a couple rifles. At some point I’ll want to look them up again, and some other nerd will ask. 😂

Tikka parts weights:

*Lite action (including action, bolt, screws, trigger but NOT bottom metal or mag): 1lb 15 3/8oz. (31.4oz)
*CTR action (action, ctr bolt, screws, trigger. No bm or mag): 1lb 15 5/8oz (31.6oz)
*Tikka oem 3-rnd mag: 1.5oz
*High desert bottom metal: 2.4oz
*Oem bottom metal: 1.1oz
*270win Lite barrel (22”): 2lb 5oz
*6.5cm lite barrel (24”): 2lb 8oz
*308win superlite barrel (22”) 2lb 1oz
*CTR 6.5cm barrel (24”) 3lb 8oz
*Oem lite stock: 28oz

Based on the above 270 vs 6.5cm barrel weights, it appears that barrel length alone will result in approximately 1.25oz/inch difference in lite-contour barrels. (3oz divided in half, minus a bit for the diff in chamber).

I have a couple barrels out to get cut and threaded that I’ll post up once I get them back.
 
I am struggling to get below 8lbs all in. This includes a CAN. Maybe if I switch to airlock and Talley or Hawkins rings I can get there
 
I believe that this would be the lightest possible build. Assumes that a suppressor is mandatory, 16.5" 22CM, and NXS scope because I don't really trust anything lighter.
1769277268610.png

If the MTNGear chassis really hits the 21.7oz...
1769277374985.png
 
Yea under 8 with a can would be tricky. My 18 inch barrel ones with rokstock swfa 3-9 and no can are over 8. I think I can get to 7 3/4 with a rs lite and no can.

To get there with a can you would likely have to make a real compromise on optics.
 
Other than cutting the barrel back to 18” the build I posted earlier has no actual gunsmithing, and with the fluted barrel is going to come in at 7lb 13 or 14 oz with can. Thats with a 23oz scope in sportsmatch rings. My S&B scope is 20oz, my heavier accupoint is 19, so there’s still a few oz savings to be had before getting crazy, and thats all components with an eye toward reliability. I have read some less than stellar reviews on the eyebox and clarity, but Im awfully tempted by that swfa 2.5-10 UL at like 10ish oz…

Yeah, a 28-30oz scope its going to be hard, but seems like there are good options that are .25-.5lb less that would not represent a serious compromise (at least for my use).
 
Seems doable but would require some choices. What is the build?
Standard Tikka lite in 6.5 CM to 16.5” warne MT rail and rings. Bastion 20 oz stock factory bottom plastic. SWFA g2 fixed 6, TBAC g2U7.

Willing to go with high desert BM if it saves weight. Would consider UM rings as well.

All my calculations have this at 8.2lbs
I know 2 oz’s don’t mean much. I’ve been told by a very reliable source and have validated. If you want to lose a pound of weight. Go take a Pi$$. This is actually true. Weighed myself before and after and even used the Gatorade bottle to confirm.

Kampfeld is cutting it down as I type. I already have all other components. I’ll know exact weight once it gets here and I can put it together.
 
I went down the path a few years ago.

Had a T3x SL 6.5CM cutdown to 22” from receiver front. (The only gunsmithing) Swapped everything but the bolt stop for Ti parts. (Should probably do that one last part.) Bedded it in a Wildcat w/ 1” Decelerator.

It’s now bedded in a Peak44 Blacktooth and comes in just under 5.5 bare. Even with a 27ish oz LRHS mounted, it balances perfect for my preference. Just in front of the front action screw. It is by far my most hunted rifle over the past 3 years, and has killed some of my best animals.

IMG_8414.jpeg
 
@RWT High desert bottom metal (or any of the aftermarket bottom metals) will add an ounce and a half over the oem plastic version.
Pretty certain you’re going to lose +\- 7oz just from cutting the barrel. Based on my mathing, I bet you a beer the next time we hang out that you come in at 7lb 10-12oz.
 
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