How is Everyone shooting???

How is it not a good example. The rest on a bow is like the rifle of your barrel as it is what controls the ammo until it leaves. Most adjustments can either be done by the yolk system on a bow or by simply adjusting the hand position. It just doesn't make sense to me to adjust your rest so that it won't be shooting through the center of the bow.

Not all bows shoot down the middle, you can take 10 bows all of the same make and model and they will all tune differently, not all bows have yokes so moving the rest is the only way to change flight characteristics. Spine of the arrow comes into play, type of release can also change things. Different bows also have different nock travel, so the center of the bow may not actually be the center of your bows power stroke.

A gun is a gun is a gun, for the most part, once dialed in pretty much anyone can sit behind it and shoot it. It only comes out of the barrel one way, if it shoots left your not going to tilt your head in the scope to compensate, your going to move the scope.
 
Same bow and arrows as last year so I'm shooting really good out to 60 yards. I'm in the process of fletching a dozen new arrows now that are same specs as my current arrows. Just as soon as those are done I'll switch back to my slick tricks and only shoot BH's until Jan. This is were any of my form issues will come to light. Seems to me that the field points are extremely forgiving compared to my BH's.

So close but still some work to do.
 
Not all bows shoot down the middle, you can take 10 bows all of the same make and model and they will all tune differently, not all bows have yokes so moving the rest is the only way to change flight characteristics. Spine of the arrow comes into play, type of release can also change things. Different bows also have different nock travel, so the center of the bow may not actually be the center of your bows power stroke.

A gun is a gun is a gun, for the most part, once dialed in pretty much anyone can sit behind it and shoot it. It only comes out of the barrel one way, if it shoots left your not going to tilt your head in the scope to compensate, your going to move the scope.

This.
 
My bow is freaking dialed. I'm shooting good but still struggling a bit with my target panic but I'm more confident with my shooting than I have been in a long time. Opener is only 27 days away now.

Same here. My E32 is shooting absolutely unreal right now. Really digging the new GTO nock system from Goldtip as well. I've always fought TP though I am blaming a lot of my current issues on the heavy trigger of my Scott Rhino XT. Might be time for a release switch.
 
So then adjust for elevation and I'm good?

I would still shoot broad heads and make sure all is good from there. But if you can consistently shoot multiple bare shafts at the same angle as your fletched I doubt you will have any adjustments to make. The problem is most people, myself included their form changes slightly from session to session, for me its grip which causes the tail of the BS to change in elevation.
 
I would still shoot broad heads and make sure all is good from there. But if you can consistently shoot multiple bare shafts at the same angle as your fletched I doubt you will have any adjustments to make. The problem is most people, myself included their form changes slightly from session to session, for me its grip which causes the tail of the BS to change in elevation.

Here is my problem with the whole bare shaft thing.. When you tune a bow where your grip has to be PERFECT every shot it makes the bow much less forgiving in my opinion.. I can paper tune and walk back tune then broached tune and my fixed blades hit where I'm aiming. If i make a bad shot they still hit pretty close.. the few times i have bare shaft tuned if i didnt grip it perfect every time i might have a flyer 5-6 inches off.. There is no one on this earth that could convince me that bare shaft tuning is a "superior" form of tuning like a lot of guys make it out to be
 
Funny the few years I've worked in a shop I've yet to come across a bow that needed to shoot Crooked to be right. Guess I should learn about that. And here I been tuning Elite, Bowtech,Strothers,and Obsession bows right down the center with great results. Well you learn something new everyday. Thank you.
 
Here is my problem with the whole bare shaft thing.. When you tune a bow where your grip has to be PERFECT every shot it makes the bow much less forgiving in my opinion.. I can paper tune and walk back tune then broached tune and my fixed blades hit where I'm aiming. If i make a bad shot they still hit pretty close.. the few times i have bare shaft tuned if i didnt grip it perfect every time i might have a flyer 5-6 inches off.. There is no one on this earth that could convince me that bare shaft tuning is a "superior" form of tuning like a lot of guys make it out to be

I would agree. And would never tell someone to use bare shaft tuning as the be all end all. Most guys will chase their tales for hours trying to tune it that way.
 
Funny the few years I've worked in a shop I've yet to come across a bow that needed to shoot Crooked to be right. Guess I should learn about that. And here I been tuning Elite, Bowtech,Strothers,and Obsession bows right down the center with great results. Well you learn something new everyday. Thank you.

What do you mean by crooked? If you have been setting elites up for very long I would bet the rest of my money I ever make in this life that you didn't slap a rest on at 3/4 and it was perfect for every single bow that came out of the box.

Elites and obsessions are binary bows, if it doesn't come from the factory right then your pretty much up shits creek.
 
So why would you want a less forgiving bow?

I don't follow you? If you can shoot bare shafts consistently with fletched that bow is tuned, period. I just wouldn't use bare shafts to get there. It doesn't make the bow less forgiving the arrow itself is less forgiving. Like fixed heads are less forgiving then FP's, bare shafts are less forgiving then fixed heads.
 
How do you guys explain fletched shafts and bare shafts hitting the same POI but the bare shafts show a considerable nose dive in the air. I've shot different weight heads, different spines, lowered the poundage of my bow, moved the rest and still get the same result. I know bareshafts can fly without doing the nosedive because I've done it before but can't with this E35.

Anyway, my BHS and FPS are hitting together and that's what really matters to me.
 
How do you guys explain fletched shafts and bare shafts hitting the same POI but the bare shafts show a considerable nose dive in the air. I've shot different weight heads, different spines, lowered the poundage of my bow, moved the rest and still get the same result. I know bareshafts can fly without doing the nosedive because I've done it before but can't with this E35.

Anyway, my BHS and FPS are hitting together and that's what really matters to me.

What bow? I'm assuming a hybrid, probably a Hoyt?

There is also a really good chance it could be your grip as well.
 
From Nock point to AMO hole is level, maybe just a hair high if a WB is on it then from center of top limb bolt through the center of arrow shaft to center of top limb bolt so that the bow shoots through the center of the bow and limbs as designed by those guys who got some silly engineering degree from college then hired on at a company to design and build bows. Once it's shooting through the true center of the bow you don't need to move the rest left or right of center makes a difference in it being aligned the way it was designed to. I've yet to come across a bow that I couldn't set up that way and shoot a bullet through paper with maybe a very slight grip difference.
 
I shoot year round. 2 weeks until pronghorn season. I'm dialed and ready.

Here is a pic of a 105 yard group with some wind and 2 arrows at 70.

Practicing far, but hoping shot is around 20. :)
 

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I don't follow you? If you can shoot bare shafts consistently with fletched that bow is tuned, period. I just wouldn't use bare shafts to get there. It doesn't make the bow less forgiving the arrow itself is less forgiving. Like fixed heads are less forgiving then FP's, bare shafts are less forgiving then fixed heads.

I'm saying after bare shaft tuning my field tips and broadheads on fletched arrows are less forgiving to me than a bow that I just paper, walk back and broadhead tuned. My hoyt that I had leaving the rest center shot and tuning with the yokes was much less forgiving than my elite that I move my rest to tune. I just think bare shaft tuning is retarded. But that's not why I started this thread
 
Stuck two in a tennis ball at 40 after a 9 mile run this am....doing ok....lol. just missed with the third arrow.
 
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