How I Modify My Tikka Factory Stocks

OP
ResearchinStuff
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Step 4 took you 2.5 hours? What are you down to now for all four steps combined?

I think this is super cool and I would love to try it. Where I struggle is that I have young kids, so time is a premium and a Stocky’s only costs me a net $400 shipped. Heck I don’t even have a saw or dremel lol.

I have the tools, and have made my kids help. I also mostly work from home, so running down to do a quick step isn't a big deal. I think end to end it's about 8 hours including prep and cleanup.

In different circumstances, I'd make different decisions too.
 
OP
ResearchinStuff
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This is awesome. Wish I would have seen this before spending a couple grand on aftermarket stocks that I end up beating the hell out.

It also has my DIY wheels turning…

Think it would be possible to cut the but stock off and install a rear folding mechanism? Some way to rigidly install, say an XLR folding butt into the front half of the tikka?

I dunno. Haven't messed with a folder. There not much too the factory stock, it's a glorified milk jug filled with Styrofoam, so you can probably make it work if you try hard enough. I imagine you'd need to add quite a bit of structure, and keeping that all aligned while it hardened could be tricky, but might be doable.

And worst case, a replacement takeoff is like 100 bucks if you fail.
 
OP
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Step 4 took you 2.5 hours? What are you down to now for all four steps combined?

I think this is super cool and I would love to try it. Where I struggle is that I have young kids, so time is a premium and a Stocky’s only costs me a net $400 shipped. Heck I don’t even have a saw or dremel lol.

One last thing, from the photos I've seen, stockys geometry still isn't quite right, and they need bedded. So there are still functional differences.
 

atmat

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One last thing, from the photos I've seen, stockys geometry still isn't quite right, and they need bedded. So there are still functional differences.
Mine have shot well without bedding; but yeah the geometry isn’t exactly as I’d prefer.

If I ever live somewhere where it’s not 120 degrees in my garage, and/or when my kids get out of the infant/toddler stage, I’d love to try something like this.
 
OP
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More finished product shots. The compact (camo) has the 5 degree angle, it's more aggressive than the tan one. 7 year old approved 👌
 

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I went down the bedding road. Bedding the recoil lug on a Bergara HMR did help occasional fliers. JMO but if a Tikka is shooting well with the factory stock, I’d leave it alone. Tikka stocks get bashed often but they are a good design. The bolster in front of the recoil lug that contacts the barrel is essentially the same as expert glass bedders bedding in front of the recoil lug.
 
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Nice write up. Any concern with stock integrity long term where you reconnected?
Even 250 spine arrows in short chunks have flex. Fiberglass might be enough to bridge and take the load though.

Any idea on a finished stock weight?
 
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I couldn’t justify putting that kind of time into polishing a turd of a stock. I do see the benefit of pillar bedding on these rifles though and I’m getting ready to do my 223 with the lumley kit because I’m having some consistentcy/POI shift issues with mine depending on how it’s resting.
 
OP
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Nice write up. Any concern with stock integrity long term where you reconnected?
Even 250 spine arrows in short chunks have flex. Fiberglass might be enough to bridge and take the load though.

Any idea on a finished stock weight?

I can weigh it tomorrow, but yours will turn out different.

Long term durability could be a problem, but it's easy enough to repair with the fiberglass and resin I'm not that concerned. As modified, it is stiffer than the factory configuration.
 

Marbles

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Nice work. I've been contemplating how to modify my factory Tikka stock and this gives me some ideas.
 
OP
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Tbh, I have 2 stocks that are bedded and free floated only, whether or not they cut cut and redesigned depends on how the rokstock design turns out, and its price.
 
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Tbh, I have 2 stocks that are bedded and free floated only, whether or not they cut cut and redesigned depends on how the rokstock design turns out, and its price.
I have a stock laying around and if the rockstock isn’t the answer (I’m buying one asap regardless) this will be my plan B, thanks for the write up

It all looks pretty straightforward, but I still don’t trust myself for it to turn out like it’s supposed to, but I do have a spare stock sitting in my gear room so I’m not afraid to try 😏

Hopefully the rockstock is a win, and have confidence it will be, it will certainly save me some cussing.

Until the rockstock is available, I plan on shooting the factory stock, have a vertical grip for it, and now just brainstorming a redneck cheek riser, which i assume will consist of closed cell foam and duct tape, but i don’t mind ugly as long as it’s functional… might use gorilla tape since it’s black, but that’s probably as much thought I’ll put into aesthetics

My 223 t3x should arrive any day now, and have the rest of the parts already… 2.5-10nxs and some UM rings and level ordered

Appreciate you taking the time to post the process you use
 
Joined
Nov 7, 2023
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Thanks for the detailed write up and photos. I decided to try similarly f***ing up my factory stock, with minor deviations. I built up the bottom of the stock a bit more to get it as parallel to the bore as possible. I also laminated the fore end with some carbon weave to stiffen it up after my aggressive free floating job, which left it a little noodly.

I found that the factory GRP material (nylon?) was pretty good for welding with a low power soldering iron, and teasing some of the embedded fibers out with the iron helped create a good bond with following epoxied layers.

Probably you should not breathe much if attempting this.

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Butcher8

Lil-Rokslider
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Not bad, looks like it could be smoothen a little but its quite impressive anyways.
 
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