How high @ 100 for 140gr 6.5cm for best POI

[S-3 ranch]

So if you don’t want to dial Why not use a holdover reticle at least? Zero at 100, use the subtensions to hold as needed.

There’s a better way than what you are trying to do.

I will do that, I have a extra 4-14x Burris signature with those hold over subtensions , and since it’s already threaded maybe a little suppressor ( it’s got a 22 inch barrel)

 

[huntsman22]

Why even consider a suppressor, if you're gonna stay stuck in the 20th century?

 

[S-3 ranch]

Why even consider a suppressor, if you're gonna stay stuck in the 20th century?

Well my aoudad shots are between 250-400 yards and I think we could kill multiple ewes and lambs before they figure out to get the hell out of dodge
With a suppressor

And as a addendum to your snide stuck in the 20th century comment
I have had a hunting and fishing outfitting company since 1991 and have seen
Technology and miss read on wind on scopes fail over and over, so prefer that my hunter or I use terrain and ability to get to a reasonable distance for a shot!
In short I don’t like post 300-350 yard shots on game .
But I’m a avid technology geek on new offshore electronics on the boat

 

[Stinky Coyote]

https://bisonballistics.com/calculators/ballistics

play in here,

I put you in for 200 zero, 3000', 1.75" scope height and 2600 fps, 41f and 50%

that puts you
2" high at 100
3.3" low at 250
8.3" low at 300
15" low at 350
23.5" low at 400

probably not really any different than your .270 with a similar zero

I'm uncivilized and prefer a 200 yard zero on standard velocity cartridges, generally 2" high at 100. We kill a lot more stuff to 250 quick (~5-6" mpbr zero) and then maybe if we feel like it we pull out a rangefinder to see how far it was but we generally shoot 1st and ask questions later in the window where the most opportunity occurs and the least amount of time occurs. There is no logic to a 100 yard zero for me just to satisfy some alignment with quick rules or whatever, we zero for maximum success in the no-think window where most of it happens and to the rise fall cone leaving the muzzle in relation to kill zone sizes. Always hold fur on first shot.

only ran 2600 fps as buddy has that rifle/cartridge and pretty sure it was a little slower than expected and he was right round 2600 with the 140/143 factory stuff

play with that calculator and your elevation/temp ranges etc. and easy to make a post-it note and then go see how close it is in your practice

 

[khuber84]

4" high at 100y with a 140eldm going 2650 gives you about 5" high at 150-175 200y, and 5" low at 350y. 4k DA. If you have a simple duplex with no turrets, and this is what you want, this is what you need.

 

[3325]

I believe post 24 @Stinky Coyote and post 25 @khuber84 have attempted to answer the question the OP asked.

I believe some have attempted to answer the question they feel the OP should have asked.

 

[solarshooter]

But we regularly shoot milk jugs @ 300-400 yards

Asking a sincere question here, do you know how often you all hit those jugs? 100%? 3/4? 1/2?

The reason I ask is when people take time to really evaluate themselves rigorously as shooters, they begin to realize they don't hit things as small or as often as they'd like without serious practice and good equipment that helps minimize error. The kentucky windage/MPBR method adds significant error to every shot, and is almost certainly hurting your ability to hit things. Do you use a rangefinder?

 

[solarshooter]

I believe post 24 @Stinky Coyote and post 25 @khuber84 have attempted to answer the question the OP asked.

I believe some have attempted to answer the question they feel the OP should have asked.

The answer he needs, not the answer he wants.

Joking aside, MPBR method works assuming you don't push range too far. So if used with discipline, no objections. Where I hunt, shot opportunities over 3-400 are not uncommon. If you were to use the MPBR method and limit yourself to 250-300, you would be bumping up against that limitation all the time.

For other types of hunting I've done, MPBR and iron sights are absolutely sufficient.

But, I can set my dialing scope to 3X and use it for close snapshots, whereas I can't go long range with MPBR and "fixed" turrets.

 

[3325]

I don’t doubt that people just want to be helpful. And the answers given are not bad. It’s just that he asked about using a scope without turret adjustments and some responded by telling him to get a scope with turret adjustments.

I suppose that’s to be expected when the question was asked in the long range section. The question may have fit better in the firearms section.

Be that as it may, I have some heirloom equipment too that I will always use. So I either stay within those limitations or not. But that goes for more high tech equipment also. It has more capability, but it still eventually has a limitation, and the shooter stays within it or not.

 

[S-3 ranch]

Asking a sincere question here, do you know how often you all hit those jugs? 100%? 3/4? 1/2?

The reason I ask is when people take time to really evaluate themselves rigorously as shooters, they begin to realize they don't hit things as small or as often as they'd like without serious practice and good equipment that helps minimize error. The kentucky windage/MPBR method adds significant error to every shot, and is almost certainly hurting your ability to hit things. Do you use a rangefinder?

I’m +75% hit ratio but have been doing unknown distance jug shooting for years, my uncle had 4-5 teenagers living in his home and saved every jug of juice or milk , and would set up a rifle shooting course on the ranch
At various points of unknown distance to practice real life hunting situations ( walking around, finding a tree or rock rest , winded ( great for breath control) or hitting off hand if the shot permits monthly or even weekly
Hell shooting off a bench is boring and I only do that to get my base line of 2 inch high on my 270’s and 375 ruger.
My buddy just got a nice 26inch ruger #1 243 and we both got hits 1st shot at what was 365 yards on a windy day ( is now hooked playing the game) and yes I use a leica laser range finder but only after the 1st shot and usually when hunting and then I can concentrate on the winds !
Love practicing on milk jugs it’s better than playing golf !!!!
I recommend all hunters do a walking shooting course on jugs or steel as much as possible over bench paper punches

 

[S-3 ranch]

“”I suppose that’s to be expected when the question was asked in the long range section. The question may have fit better in the firearms section.””

Yes I made a mistake by posting in the long range forum
I am not a LRH though I have shot many times @ LR at our own range
With two pieces if 4x8 plywood target, a 800-1000 yard shot is a hard shot with a hunting rifle, winds and The Coriolis effect at that distance are a hard calculation to overcome past 400 yards, and imo is risky on game even when prairie dog shooting

 

[Macintosh]

22” barrel I bet you wind up somewhere between 2625 and 2650fps with most factory 140gr 6.5cm loads.

At 400yds my 270 dope with 130gr loads is about an inch flatter shooting than most 140gr loads from my 6.5cm at 2650. So split that difference and zero the 6.5 half an inch higher at 100 yards than you zero your 270, maybe a smidge more. The 270 will be about 3” high and low at 100 and 400, the 6.5 will be about 3.5+” high and low at 100 and 400. If thats what you do, then the 6.5 is exactly the same, just with a little more built in error. Verify on milk jugs, adjust a smidge if you need, and rock on. It’s a bigger mpbr zero than I like, but if it works for you it really wont be much different. Or use the same zero and just consider it a 350 yard gun instead of a 400 yard gun.