How do YOU set up a slider sight?

sndmn11

"DADDY"
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Mar 28, 2017
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Morrison, Colorado
I am interested in everyone's method for setting up a multi-pin slider sight, and the why of it? Not just finding the correct sight tape, but all the setup and steps before that. I have read of folks using different pins as the mover, setting the gang as low as possible before sliding, setting the gang in the middle before sliding, etc.
 
I will be setting mine up soon. The key for the gang is to have it naturally align with your peep. So if you have a 5 pin slider and the bottom pin is the mover at 60 yds this should be your home position and the gang should be completely centered in your natural anchor position. At this point you will be able to move the slider up to 40 yds and down past 80 yds without any issue with peep alignment. Note: this will also be a little dependent on arrow speed, some will be able to roll up or down further than others.

At the end of the day if you are sliding up or down and are having to adjust your anchor to get peep aligned with sight housing that isn't a good thing IMO. So, try to find that happy medium.
 
I shoot a BG 3 pin. I run the rack all the way to the top, sight in my 3 pins in the center of the housing 20,30,40. Then use only my top pin shoot at 20 make mark, move back slowly adjusting sight down until I am grouping properly at 80 make mark. go to the tapes find one that 20 and 80 line up, install tape at 40 yard mark matching up to the needle. then use my 40 pin as the rover.

it is important to remember to use the same pin the entire time while setting tape distances.
 
MGB 3-pin: center 2nd pin in housing and move housing to top of housing. Sight in at 30 yards. Slide housing down a little and zero in at 60 yards. Make etch on housing where pin points. Move housing back up to top. Using calipers, measure pointer to scratch. Find tape that matches that distance from 30 to 60. Install tape. Zero top pin at 20, bottom at 40. Middle pin is my rover.

MGB single pin: zero at 20 with housing all the way up, make etch at 60, measure, find tape, install, done.

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I'm shooting a CBE Tek Hybrid. I set my slider in the center position so i have pretty much equal up and down movement. It keeps dirt out of the tracks to do it that way on the CBE. I then set my 5 pins just like a normal 5 pin sight, when all my pins are on i measure between the 20 and 60 pin to figure out the tape. I like to be able to use my floater at shorter distances as well which is why is center the housing on the slider. I can shoot my floater (60yrd) pin from 10-120+ without hitting my fletching. No reason i can see to start with it all the way up unless you plan on shooting 200 yards.
 
Spot hogg - Tommy Hogg: Find highest point sight housing can be set (peep has to be in right position first). Then find correct position of sight housing for horizontal adjustments (want to be close to the middle, so you don't run out of adjustment when sighting in and have to start over). Set middle pin(s) in center of sight housing. Position other pins using an old sight or measurements from between pins on an old sight (gets you closer faster). Shoot and fine tune pin location. Once sighted in, put a piece of tape on wheel, mark home position. I shoot every distance with my top pin, until I run out of clearance moving down. I use my pin gaps to help estimate how far to move the sight down, since my pins are sighted in. Once I have marks for every 10 yards, find a sight tape that matches. You can shoot two distances (20 and 60 plus) like mentioned before, but i like comparing every 10 yards. Then pick which pin you want to be your slider. Currently I use my 40 on a 3 pin. Align tape so you are close to the 40 yard mark. Then go shoot and adjust sight if needed. Then move indicator so it lines up perfectly with 40, if needed. If you want to change with pin you float, put sight in home position and move tape to mark corresponding to whatever pin you want to us.
 
I've set them up all kinds of ways for customers.
I run a 3pin and have my top pin as my mover. Gang adjusted all the way up. Sight in 20,30,40 adjust to 60 with top pin and mark it.
Roll gang back up measure distance and match up tape.
For me this works best. I always come up on my target.
Usually if a critter is past 40 I have time to dial and if it moves farther away I have 2 pins.
This doesnt work for everyone but I have found it very comfortable for me.


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I have 1,3and 5 pin sliders I use the bottom pin as a mover, last one I set up was a single pin I shot 20 then 75 and matched it to the appropriate tape, go as far as you feel confident in, in my experience shooting 20&60 like the manufacturers say may leave you a few yards off at 80+
 
There is an article on the Rokslide homepage and a sticky thread I believe in the archery section titled, Building Accurate Sight Tapes that may be helpful as well.
 
Thanks guys, I see that there are a few different ideas and theories.
I have had my first slider for about a month(fast eddie 5pin) and got a second rack stop piece. Bear in mind I haven't shot a compound in a dozen years. I moved my gang as high as possible while haing the rack stop piece stop it. I the sighted in my 20yd pin and did the calibration tape. I then moved the gang as low as I could and set up the second rack stop before any clearance issues. So, in my mind that gave my parameters. I then made a dot on the wheel at both extremes and measured from dot to dot. I noticed the tapes only went to 100yards, and if I set my floater at 60 yards, I still had 2/3 of my available rotation past 100 yards. I know i could hand write it in, but I have no immediate need to shoot that far. So, with the mesurement I took I was able to figure I could use my 40 as the floater and still have a little bit of rotation past the pre-marked 100 to write in 120ish.

I had never thought of the idea of a set up that allows dialing up or down, just dialing one way and may give that a try after thinking it through.

My main curiosity is with my wife's first and only bow. She will have a 3pin fast eddie and shooting 500gr about 190-200fps I am guessing. Hearing different ideas is beneficial and a good starting point to see what makes sense for her rain and what the equipment will allow. .
 
It really just is all personal preference. I really like having mine set up with the dead stop at the top so I know I just have to turn to the stop and without even looking I know my pin yardages. It’s quick, easy, and keeps it simple for me. I shoot a 3 pin now and have gone to pins at 30-40-50 instead of the usual because of the minimal change of impact between 20 and 30 yards. I didn’t see the need for 20 yard pin anymore.

I shot a fixed pin for a long time and feel real comfortable gapping pins so especially at shorter distances I don’t feel the need to dial to the exact yardage for hunting purposes. Some people might, and I say do what works. I have shot the 3 pin for a few years and have yet to even need to dial it in the woods though. I can shoot to 60 comfortably and that’s more than I need.
 
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