hinge release

[benmitchell17]

I am a new archer and I just picked up a used hinge that I have been playing with. I have to say, it is really fun. I feel like my shots are already grouping better with only a few through them really. I am trying to sort out how sensitive to make it. less seems to be nice, but seems easy to misfire. when it takes to long to pull it begins to feel unnatural, I have to hold it too long. thoughts?

 

[mfllood3800]

First of this should really be in the "archery" sub forum.
But since you have 1 post now, I suspect you are either new (duh) or a Nigerian hacker trying to build his post count up to scam some one in the classifieds.

A hinge should be set medium to heavy IMO. Good form will cause it to fire consistently. When set too light, it can miss fire easier.
What happens when you pull and pull and it doesn't fire, most often, is your front shoulder is creeping up and countering the release hand tension. Plus the back muscles really only have so much movement, and when that front shoulder creeps, it becomes an issue, so just let down, with out firing and start over.
Make sure your draw length is right. This helps the shot process be right and not encounter issues.

As with all things archery, the answer isn't always easy of 1 thing. Some times, usually it is a combo of things.

 

[Redarrow]

I set mine so it goes off when my hand is totally relaxed. I get to full draw and pull into the wall then slowly relax my hand till it releases. Keep shooting and playing with it and you’ll figure out what works best for u

 

[Zac]

Mostly preference, Braden Gallenthien sets his super slow. He uses his pinkey finger to rotate the his fourth finger hinge. I think most pros set there's very light however. Some guys relax the hand, some like Levi just rotate the release. I guess the so called proper way to do it would be to activate it with back tension. You can find examples of everything in between though.

 

[Huntin wv]

It all depends on what is a comfortable and natural hand position at anchor. If you set it too light you’ll have to change your hand/finger angle to keep it from going off, too heavy and you’ll have to rotate too much to get it to fire. I started off with mine pretty light but have made it a little more heavy over the last couple years. When it was too light, when I’d try to bring my draw elbow down to level, it would go off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Marble]

Moat people apply the mindset of a light trigger on a rifle to the hinge. But it's the opposite like said above. With me, I shoot with a click so I can pull to it, my process continues and I pull pull pull.

The point is for the release to be controlled but a surprise.

 

[benmitchell17]

this is good info, thank you. I'm certainly going to go have to play with it. I want to mimic the back tension shot. I certainly noticed having to over-focus on not misfiring when it was too light on my draw. I don't have a click on my hinge, so I need to start my process once I reach full draw it seems like.

 

[3forks]

I had my hinges set very hot for a few years.

I now set them a quite a bit colder so that I don’t keep so much tension in my hand.

There are a lot of ways to fire a hinge, but I think the biggest variable to account for with a hinge is the tension in your hand.

I was very accurate with a hinge set very hot, but my shot process wasn‘t as dynamic and natural as it is now with my releases set colder. When my release was very hot, I’d barely have to relax my index finger to get enough rotation for the shot to break. Essentially, I was close to command shooting the hinge.

Now, with a colder release, I can relax my hand more and pull into the backwall using my back more than when I was shooting a hot release. I feel my shot process is better and I get less impingement in my shoulder. *Sometimes you can see a hinge shooter not getting much of a ”recoil” when their shot breaks. I think that’s due to them pulling straight back with their shoulder against the backwall but not engaging their back as much. When you release the tension in your hand a pull through using your back in more of a “J” motion, you’ll get a more natural and relaxed recoil when the shot breaks.

 

[jmez]

This is where the lock pin on the Stan releases is very helpful. You can attach them to the string and the release will fire but won't release the string. When I started with a hinge I used the lock pin for a month and a half before I ever shot an arrow.

I use a click as well and found it very helpful. For a click to help you need to use it correctly. You don't even begin aiming until the release has clicked. Once it clicks you settle into your firing engine and wait for the shot to break. Draw, come to anchor, as you are settling in your anchor it should click, now your ready. I don't even look through my peep site until it clicks.

 

[Marble]

This is where the lock pin on the Stan releases is very helpful. You can attach them to the string and the release will fire but won't release the string. When I started with a hinge I used the lock pin for a month and a half before I ever shot an arrow.

I use a click as well and found it very helpful. For a click to help you need to use it correctly. You don't even begin aiming until the release has clicked. Once it clicks you settle into your firing engine and wait for the shot to break. Draw, come to anchor, as you are settling in your anchor it should click, now your ready. I don't even look through my peep site until it clicks.

Thata basically what I do. I go through my process in my head...anchor, anchor, peep, bubble then pull through my click.