Ive read thread after thread that says not putting a rail on a tikka is the way to go, then I click on forms thread about the stock and hes taking a rail off to reapply a new rail. what gives????
Ive read thread after thread that says not putting a rail on a tikka is the way to go, then I click on forms thread about the stock and hes taking a rail off to reapply a new rail. what gives????
Gosh, thanks for that. I am going to blindly follow everything you say in your posts because you are obviously knowledgeable and make decisions based solely on data and never just feelings, opinion, or camo patterns and color.Sometimes you have to do things your way. Believe it or not, the masses on RS are not always right, nor do they know what the hell they're talking about.
You ever want to shoot beyond a few hundred yards, you're going to want a 20 MOA rail, like the one in the pics. Some scopes just run out of elevation on certain rifles.I wasnt trying to be a smart butt, I was asking a legit question. I didnt go with a rail on my tikka because I thought that was the wrong path even tho I prefer them. If theres a reason I was wanting to know.
Oh geez, I thought he was talking about rail on the stock…You ever want to shoot beyond a few hundred yards, you're going to want a 20 MOA rail, like the one in the pics. Some scopes just run out of elevation on certain rifles.
I wasnt trying to be a smart butt, I was asking a legit question. I didnt go with a rail on my tikka because I thought that was the wrong path even tho I prefer them. If theres a reason I was wanting to know.
Dunno your scopes/calibers but many can do well beyond a few hundred yards on plain rings.You ever want to shoot beyond a few hundred yards, you're going to want a 20 MOA rail, like the one in the pics. Some scopes just run out of elevation on certain rifles.
Totally agree.My 2 cents is that if you're in a situation where you're swapping scopes across platforms often, the picatinny rail is far more convenient than remounting the scope over and over. Since that's my situation, I've got Pic rails bonded on my tikkas.
If you didn’t require elevation, would you remove the pic rail that comes on the CTR?Apologies, I read it wrong.
The most reliable, and durable setup up is an integral picatinny rail. After that is the Tikka 16.5mm dovetail with recoil pins. Both are more durable than anything that attaches by 4 tiny screws. However, if shooting past the range where a specific scope runs out of elevation, the way to get that back is to use an inclined rail- “20 MOA rail”.
These can, and are durable, but will always be more failure prone in absolute abuse than an integral rail.
So it’s basically this for Tikka’s-
1). Do I legitimately require more elevation to reach the ranges I actually shoot? If no- UM Rings. If yes, an inclined picatinny rail with recoil pin.
2). If requiring an inclined rail, then I fully degrease everything, use a bonding agent on the rail, thread lock screws, and torque tight.
Using the included rail on a Tikka with Sportsmatch or UM rings is always* the better choice if viable.
With CNC equipment it doesn't seem like it would be that hard to make rings with 20 Moa built in. I only have very limited experience in that area though so I'd be curious to hear someone thoughts on that (@Unknown Munitions). Burris Extreme signature rings work well, but are only for picatinny and I believe using inserts is patented. As mentioned though, I'd thing the eccentricity could be machined right in to the rings. In general, I don't need more elevation for hunting, but I'll take it if I can get it without giving something up elsewhere.