hey, wait a minute

Firth

Lil-Rokslider
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Jan 8, 2018
Messages
103
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Idaho
The problem is ring spacing. The angle cut into the rings changes as the spacing does. It doesn’t work without using a one piece mount, or one with live centers.
Should have thought about it more. I suppose variable ring spacing could be overcome by including a spacer with the rings to set correct spacing and then remove after tightening, but then you'd have very little mounting flexibility.
 
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bnsafe

WKR
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Messages
663
thanks guys. I appreciate the answers.
To answer the question about why I prefer pic rails, its prob because I legit havnt used a rail like tikkas since I was a kid 45 years ago shooting a 22 LR that had that kind of mount. In my head, it seems like im using a 22 rimfire mount on a real rifle. I know, thats in my head not legit, but its there. It seems to me, and obviously Im wrong, the tikka rails would be prone to slide somewhat since nothing is keeping them from moving backwards on recoil other than torquing them, with screws which we all agree are the issue. If you put screws into the gun they can come lose but they will not slide backwards and if you use loctite etc and torque them it just seems to someone that doesnt shoot enough to truly know, that is the better solution.
With that said, I dont argue with people that know more about this than I do just like I dont want people arguing with me about things I absolutely know. So, when I bought my first tikka last year I went with sportsmatch rings (because my trijicon is a 1 inch scope and um only does the 30mm). Yes it works, but in my head it seems like those can slip backwards more easily than screws in a hole can come lose. Lastly, the recoil pin in the sportsmatch is so lose im not sure what good it does. Sure its tight in the rings, but the only hole it fits in on the tikka is as lose as a, well, never mind.
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2021
Messages
442
Ahah. If it were like you were describing with nothing to prevent sliding under recoil I would absolutely agree that Picatinny was superior. BUT, Tikkas have pins that go vertically down into the top of the receiver.

Edit: I missed the part about the sportsmatch rings in your post.
I think the UM Rings might do it better:

UM-TIKKA-RINGS-2.png
 

Formidilosus

Super Moderator
Shoot2HuntU
Joined
Oct 22, 2014
Messages
10,322
thanks guys. I appreciate the answers.
To answer the question about why I prefer pic rails, its prob because I legit havnt used a rail like tikkas since I was a kid 45 years ago shooting a 22 LR that had that kind of mount. In my head, it seems like im using a 22 rimfire mount on a real rifle. I know, thats in my head not legit, but its there. It seems to me, and obviously Im wrong, the tikka rails would be prone to slide somewhat since nothing is keeping them from moving backwards on recoil other than torquing them, with screws which we all agree are the issue. If you put screws into the gun they can come lose but they will not slide backwards and if you use loctite etc and torque them it just seems to someone that doesnt shoot enough to truly know, that is the better solution.
With that said, I dont argue with people that know more about this than I do just like I dont want people arguing with me about things I absolutely know. So, when I bought my first tikka last year I went with sportsmatch rings (because my trijicon is a 1 inch scope and um only does the 30mm). Yes it works, but in my head it seems like those can slip backwards more easily than screws in a hole can come lose. Lastly, the recoil pin in the sportsmatch is so lose im not sure what good it does. Sure its tight in the rings, but the only hole it fits in on the tikka is as lose as a, well, never mind.

On Sportsmatch you put the pin in the ring, put the ring over the oblong hole in the rail then push forward until the pin touches the forward part of the oblong hole, tighten there. Now it’s a recoil stop.
 
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mt100gr.

WKR
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
3,059
Location
NW MT
The sportsmatch recoil "lug"/pin definitely appears to be a "hot dog down a hallway" situation, but when set as far forward as possible it serves the same as any recoil lug.
 

Wrench

WKR
Joined
Aug 23, 2018
Messages
6,365
Location
WA
If I install a base and it moves fore and aft with loose screws.....it's getting bedded.

When you add 20-60 moa and your base is not married to the action, you have potential to shift r and l as well as not be repeatable.

Someone mentioned the burris rings.....I run several sets. I try to use all of my scope travel on some rigs and that can be 1* of cant. The burris rings allow this to happen and do not eat scope tubes and even on my unbraked 8# 300 don't move nor bind even with 40 moa in the inserts.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Messages
1,063
You ever want to shoot beyond a few hundred yards, you're going to want a 20 MOA rail, like the one in the pics. Some scopes just run out of elevation on certain rifles.

We have gotten out to 1500yrds with a 6x on a 243 without needing a rail........
 

Wrench

WKR
Joined
Aug 23, 2018
Messages
6,365
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WA
1500 on a 243 w/o a rail is abnormal. That's about 13 mils of elevation or 40 plus moa.
 

Wrench

WKR
Joined
Aug 23, 2018
Messages
6,365
Location
WA
40 is in pretty exceptional company. You'll likely never see a 1" and you're getting danger close to bottoming a lot of 30mm.

  • March Genesis ELR scopes = 118 mrad
  • Zeiss S5 LRP = 40.7 mrad
  • March 5-42x56 HM = 40 mrad
  • NF ATACR 4-20x50 = 38 mrad
  • Vortex Razor Gen III 6-36 = 36.1 mrad
  • Hensoldt ZF 3.5-25x56 = 36 mrad
  • ZCO's (not 8-40) = 35 mrad
  • Burris XTR III 3.3-18x50 = 35 mrad
  • Schmidt Ultra Short and certain versions of PM II (non DTII+) 34/35 mrad
  • NF ATACR 5-25 = 35 mrad
  • NF ATACR 7-35 = 35 mrad (advertised is only 27.3 but most users report at least 35 mrad)
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Messages
1,063
1500 on a 243 w/o a rail is abnormal. That's about 13 mils of elevation or 40 plus moa.

Just a tikka 243 with a 6x swfa in talley's, lobbing 105gr bthp's
Its been a while but if IIRC it was closer to 15mils, maybe a bit more. Maxed out the scope and most of the reticle.
 
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