Help with Hamskea Trinity

[HonkeyMcGee88]

I recently switched to a Hamskea Trinity and I'm having trouble getting it to paper tune.

I'm shooting a Traverse that I was using the integrate rest on and my hunting arrows would shoot bullet holes without any adjustment after my local shop set up my center shot.

I swapped to the Hamskea last minute before leaving town to work for a while and fiddled with paper tuning it today at a shop nearby. Both my Rampages and my PS26s would give me a right tear. I'd make an adjustment, it would look like everything was coming in, I'd adjust a touch more and it was back to what the first tear looked like.

I also noticed if i shot a few arrows one might tear pretty good then the next one would be way right or high. This got me thinking there is something I'm not catching going on.
At 20 yards everything was shooting nice and tight. This is my first limb driven so is there something I need to be looking for that might be going on?

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[OR Archer]

Are you just trying to correct left/right tears with the rest? Or are you using the top hats? If you’re not using the top hats then you need to be to correct lateral tears.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

I'm just trying to get it to shoot through paper like it did with my other rest.

Tophats had never crossed my mind since previously it papertuned great. I was thinking maybe I was missing something in the difference of limb vs cable driven maybe.

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[ShakeDown]

Are your micro adjust screws locked down? The rest should be rock solid, no movement.

Seems simple but a buddy was getting weird tears and when I looked at his Trinity he had a loose micro screw.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

The microadjust screws are definitely tight.

One thing I did just notice and fixed was my nockset was a little tight. I was getting kinda a mushy nock and not nice positive little click. Is that something that could have been causing that type if issue?
We did move the nock point when the new rest was installed and I hadn't noticed that.

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[ShakeDown]

That can definitely have an effect.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

When I have some time this weekend I'll put a few more through paper after that. It was shooting great at 20 yards at least today.

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[Brendan]

I haven't shot a Traverse, but do have a Triax, so take this with a grain of salt.

I always shoot Hamskea's on all my bows, except had to switch to a QAD on the Triax. The reason for me - torque tuning the bow required the rest further in and closer to the riser than I could get with the Hamskea. With the rest further back as opposed to against the riser, the bow was much more torque-sensitive.

Swapped to the QAD further forward, did some testing, and it cleared right up.

That's the reverse of my Hoyts that like the rest back towards the Tek Riser.

 

[sndmn11]

It sounds like timing, how far from the limb tip is the cord tied?

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

Brendan I will keep that in mind. I did notice that even with the rest all the way forward it is much farther back than the QAD.

Sndmn, it is about as far back as it can be without doing something like putting a cabinet clasp in the set screws at the very back.

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[MTSabo]

Ceck for fletching contact with some foot powder

 

[sndmn11]

Brendan I will keep that in mind. I did notice that even with the rest all the way forward it is much farther back than the QAD.

Sndmn, it is about as far back as it can be without doing something like putting a cabinet clasp in the set screws at the very back.

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I think I had mine right about where the limb starts to get thicker. If everything was shooting fine before, the logical explanation is that something wonky is going on with the rest and id bet a lot that it is not timed well and you are getting some fletching contact. I would put the rest back to center and only fiddle with where the cord is tied.

 

[Brendan]

Brendan I will keep that in mind. I did notice that even with the rest all the way forward it is much farther back than the QAD.

Sndmn, it is about as far back as it can be without doing something like putting a cabinet clasp in the set screws at the very back.

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Very easy to test.

30 yards, shoot at a spot. Next, grip the bow with your full hand and intentionally torque the stabilizer a little to the right (just a little, don't derail the damn thing). Concentrate on lining up your peep, housing, still putting the pin on Target with the bow torqued, steady pull into the wall, and shoot.

Repeat with it torqued left.

A properly torque tuned bow, all three arrows will still hit the same. I've had those that were not miss by 2' at 60 yards with a little bit of torque.

If you torque right and miss left, you need to decrease distance between sight and rest. Torque right, miss right, increase...

Rest makes a bigger difference than sight.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

Thanks for all the replies, I will check all these out on my next day off.

To the mention of timing, on a fall away what more can you do aside from moving the cable as far back on the limb and tightening the string so the rest is all the way down before you draw?

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[Sorry slinger]

on my halon 32 I have the cord tied on about an inch in front of the axle

 

[sndmn11]

Thanks for all the replies, I will check all these out on my next day off.

To the mention of timing, on a fall away what more can you do aside from moving the cable as far back on the limb and tightening the string so the rest is all the way down before you draw?

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The limb tip will move the most, so the closer to the tip the longer the rest is up. It is also possible to be away from the tip enough that the rest doesn't come up fully and the cord still has tension. I set up my Traverse and Realm SR6 to whatever the instructions said, with my Reckoning I had to move it closer to the tip.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

The limb tip will move the most, so the closer to the tip the longer the rest is up. It is also possible to be away from the tip enough that the rest doesn't come up fully and the cord still has tension. I set up my Traverse and Realm SR6 to whatever the instructions said, with my Reckoning I had to move it closer to the tip.

So I should adjust the positioning so it comes up fully in the last inch or two of the draw cycle similar to a QAD?

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[Sorry slinger]

yes, it could be staying up too long

 

[sndmn11]

So I should adjust the positioning so it comes up fully in the last inch or two of the draw cycle similar to a QAD?

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Ideally. The rest is also the only thing that has changed once you set the centershot and elevation to where the other rest was, so it is most likely to be the culprit. If you can't fix it in ten minutes, the best thing you could do is call the people who make it.

Devin Hall
Hamskea Archery Solutions
Technical Lead
(970)978-8490
<[email protected]>

 

[Brendan]

I don't think where it comes up is the issue, as long as it is all the way down at rest, and all the way up at full draw. I've run it to come up almost immediately in the draw cycle, and right at the end. We had a big discussion about this in a thread last year.

If you're worried dabout contact, get some powder or lipstick and just test it.