Help with Hamskea Trinity

[OR Archer]

I don't think where it comes up is the issue, as long as it is all the way down at rest, and all the way up at full draw. I've run it to come up almost immediately in the draw cycle, and right at the end. We had a big discussion about this in a thread last year.

If you're worried dabout contact, get some powder or lipstick and just test it.

Where its attached to the limb will affect vertical tears. For example if I have a bow tearing tail high I can move the cord toward the limb pocket to help correct this. Opposite for a low tear.

 

[Brendan]

I know it can change things, but I personally have never had any issue tuning in either location...

I want to say the actual recommendation was rest fully up 7-10" before full draw?


Edit: Something I have had make a difference is the "tension" spring internal to the rest that controls how firmly the blade comes up and stays up. I did have to adjust the tension down for one setup I had.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

Well a little update.

I played with the location of the cable and sure enough that cleared up my low tear.

I shot 3 arrows one without torque, one right, one left and from that and the help from you guys looked like I either needed to move the rest in(its maxed out already) or move my sight closer.
I moved the site closer and could definitely see a difference.

Ideally I would have liked to get the torque tuning done with the rest and left my sight our farther so I'm undecided on if I'll be sticking with it yet or going back to the QAD.

Either way, I appreciate the help from you guys and it definitely did the trick. I am feeling much better about it now

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

Last question I forgot to add.

So if I were to move the rest all the way back next range trip and start from scratch with the paper tuning would i then be able to get the torque tune with the rest by slowly adjusting forward or would i mostly just wind up right back with the rest all the way forward and my sight pushed in?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Brendan]

I think if you moved the rest back, and then tried to torque tune again, you'd end up where you are now.

What happened to me with the Hamskea on my Triax was that I ended up with the sight all the way in against the riser (was using a Hogg Father on a dovetail) and the hamskea as far forward as close to the riser as possible, and things still weren't ideal. That's the sole reason I went to the QAD which I have on the bow now.

I am guessing, but am not certain, that some of the Mathews bows are designed with a rest like the QAD in mind, especially with the newer integrate rests that mount direct to the riser.

This is exactly the opposite of my Hoyts, which have the Hamskea as far back as possible, and I run my dovetail almost fully extended with it torque tuning great.

This is one of those things, once you actually do the torque testing, you realize how big of a difference it can make in certain scenarios...

 

[Brendan]

Pics:

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

I think if you moved the rest back, and then tried to torque tune again, you'd end up where you are now.

What happened to me with the Hamskea on my Triax was that I ended up with the sight all the way in against the riser (was using a Hogg Father on a dovetail) and the hamskea as far forward as close to the riser as possible, and things still weren't ideal. That's the sole reason I went to the QAD which I have on the bow now.

I am guessing, but am not certain, that some of the Mathews bows are designed with a rest like the QAD in mind, especially with the newer integrate rests that mount direct to the riser.

This is exactly the opposite of my Hoyts, which have the Hamskea as far back as possible, and I run my dovetail almost fully extended with it torque tuning great.

This is one of those things, once you actually do the torque testing, you realize how big of a difference it can make in certain scenarios...

I'm about in the same boat. Sight moved in anymore and I'm losing my halo on the housing.

I have a feeling I'm going to wind up with the QAD back on.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[alpinewanderer]

Thought I would reactivate this thread because I am having a similar problem.

I have a 2020 Hoyt Axius Ultra that was setup with a QAD Ultrarest HDX the day I bought it. A few weeks ago the QAD’s sear began to wear out so I replaced it with a limb driven Hamskea Epsilon. I like the metal components and multiple bearings of the Hamskea but my goodness, it seems to have become considerably more torque sensitive. If I don’t address the riser just right or if perhaps I punch my thumb button a tad it really sends arrows flying.

With my QAD setup, my technical mistakes might send the arrow from the 10 or 9 ring into the 8 or 7 but now that I have the Hamskea installed, I’m way out in the blue or worse on Vegas targets when I mess up.

What could I do to correct this other than being better at archery?

1. Check the rest timing and increase it to 70% of the power stroke give it more time to straighten out the arrows flight?
2. Torque tune and bring my sight housing closer to the riser?
3. Take off the grip or replace it with something like the the UV ultragrip which is flat and squared off for reproducibility? The factory Hoyt I’m running is rather round.

Of note is that the Hamskea launcher is noticeably farther back from the riser than the QAD was so perhaps if I move the sight back accordingly that would be a good place to start. I could try and replicate the same distance that existed between it and the QAD, which was further forward.

I’d love to make thing work with the Hamskea but if I have to launch a scientific research program to tune it right I’m wondering if returning to QAD would be less of a pain in the ass. Perhaps an Integrate MX or similar would be a good option?

 

[Billy Goat]

Thought I would reactivate this thread because I am having a similar problem.

I have a 2020 Hoyt Axius Ultra that was setup with a QAD Ultrarest HDX the day I bought it. A few weeks ago the QAD’s sear began to wear out so I replaced it with a limb driven Hamskea Epsilon. I like the metal components and multiple bearings of the Hamskea but my goodness, it seems to have become considerably more torque sensitive. If I don’t address the riser just right or if perhaps I punch my thumb button a tad it really sends arrows flying.

With my QAD setup, my technical mistakes might send the arrow from the 10 or 9 ring into the 8 or 7 but now that I have the Hamskea installed, I’m way out in the blue or worse on Vegas targets when I mess up.

What could I do to correct this other than being better at archery?

1. Check the rest timing and increase it to 70% of the power stroke give it more time to straighten out the arrows flight?
2. Torque tune and bring my sight housing closer to the riser?
3. Take off the grip or replace it with something like the the UV ultragrip which is flat and squared off for reproducibility? The factory Hoyt I’m running is rather round.

Of note is that the Hamskea launcher is noticeably farther back from the riser than the QAD was so perhaps if I move the sight back accordingly that would be a good place to start. I could try and replicate the same distance that existed between it and the QAD, which was further forward.

I’d love to make thing work with the Hamskea but if I have to launch a scientific research program to tune it right I’m wondering if returning to QAD would be less of a pain in the ass. Perhaps an Integrate MX or similar would be a good option?

I have had similar issue with some bows. I can't figure out exactly why, tried several different things, went back to a qad. Might be the amount of reflex in the riser, tho I don't think it's too different. I couldn't get an Epsilon to work on my V3X33, ended up back to an Integrated Qad. That Epsilon went on my V3 31, doesn't seem to be an issue. I also used a Trinity a good bit on a VXR 31, without issues. Tho I think it was my TRX 36 I wasn't happy with the Trinity on, it's a pretty neutral riser, where as the others have a fair amount of reflex.


Tried a bunch of limb positions with the drop away cord, timed it different amounts, flipped the spring and tried it spring down instead of cable, nothing seemed to clean it up.

You can probably just get your original QAD warranted. I have only seen a few of those actually wear out, and it definitely wasn't in 2 or 3 years. They are normally excellent with warranty.