Help me finish building my new Tikka

[PSDBowhunter]

Good info on mils. Quick drop and wind brackets are worth the switch alone.

https://rokslide.com/forums/threads...cope-reticle-turrets-and-proper-usage.315942/

Just got a swfa 3-9 and so far I’m really liking it. Also would stick with 30 cal can and then a separate one for rimfires.

That thread was very helpful. Thanks!

The SWFA is looking like the scope of choice.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Thanks for all the suppressor suggestions. These may be some dumb questions, but since I'm a newbie.

1. Do all rimfires requiring suppressor cleaning? 22LR, 22WMR, 17HMR?
2. This rifle is threaded 1/2 - 28. Do you just get adapters if you have a 30 cal suppressor that is threaded for 5/8 - 24?

1. Yes, all rimfire suppressors require cleaning due to them leaving lead deposits on the baffles. If you only shoot 17HMR it will require less cleaning than if you shoot a lot of .22LR, but it will eventually need to be cleaned. I tend to disagree with @hereinaz regarding centerfire suppressors. I have a couple that have thousands of rounds through them and they have never been cleaned. They do weigh a couple of more ounces than they did new, but I have never had a problem with carbon flaking out and getting into the action or other issues that I have read about and my oldest can hasn't gained any weight in years.

2. As pointed out, most suppressors come with HUB mounts now, so even if it has a 5/8-24 HUB, you can get a 1/2-28 HUB to put on it. I like direct thread cans over QD setups for two reasons. First is weight. A DT setup will always weigh less and 2) I have seen more misalignment issues with QD than I have with DT. If you mount a DT suppressor correctly it won't loosen up and it only takes about 5 more seconds to get it off and on over a QD, so the "quick" part of QD isn't all that much quicker.

 

[hereinaz]

1. Yes, all rimfire suppressors require cleaning due to them leaving lead deposits on the baffles. If you only shoot 17HMR it will require less cleaning than if you shoot a lot of .22LR, but it will eventually need to be cleaned. I tend to disagree with @hereinaz regarding centerfire suppressors. I have a couple that have thousands of rounds through them and they have never been cleaned. They do weigh a couple of more ounces than they did new, but I have never had a problem with carbon flaking out and getting into the action or other issues that I have read about and my oldest can hasn't gained any weight in years.

2. As pointed out, most suppressors come with HUB mounts now, so even if it has a 5/8-24 HUB, you can get a 1/2-28 HUB to put on it. I like direct thread cans over QD setups for two reasons. First is weight. A DT setup will always weigh less and 2) I have seen more misalignment issues with QD than I have with DT. If you mount a DT suppressor correctly it won't loosen up and it only takes about 5 more seconds to get it off and on over a QD, so the "quick" part of QD isn't all that much quicker.

There is no hard fast rule about cleaning centerfire cans. It depends on many factors when it should be cleaned vs. must be cleaned.

The difficulty of cleaning carbon deposits is enough to do it more regularly, before it is thick. The hardest carbon that doesn’t flake out builds up and reduces the efficiency of the suppressor. And it hard to get our.

On a podcast, I heard of an Ultra 7 that weighed way more than new, was terrible sounding. Thunderbeast will clean for free. They said it took months of intermittent soaking and cleaning.