Help LS Wild design the new stock!

[BLJ]

UPDATE:
Our CAD designer has made great progress. @Bluumoon was a champ and voluntarily sent his Master Sporter stock to the designer for the grip to be scanned. So, these renderings are with a true Master Sporter grip.

We want input from those of you that are interested. We have our own idea of tweaks that we’d like made. However, we want to withhold those ideas for right now in order to avoid influencing your feedback, and we want to hear from you. What modifications or changes would you like to see from these renderings?

Feel free to take these pics and mark them up with the modifications you’d like, and repost them.

We are making great progress.

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Is there anyway of making a guess on what the weight might be in the configuration shown?

Then maybe try and determine where can be removed without sacrifice.

Probably not a possibility. Just a thought

 

[Schmo]

Is there anyway of making a guess on what the weight might be in the configuration shown?

Then maybe try and determine where can be removed without sacrifice.

Probably not a possibility. Just a thought

I’ll ask the designer and see if there is a realistic way to estimate the weight

 

[Schmo]

Agree with everyone's comments on making it sleeker, which will also make it lighter.

It's impossible to please everyone on Pic/Arca/bipod adapter/sling swivel - I would recommend just putting a bunch of threaded inserts (like, more than normal), and let people buy their own rails.

We can consider inserts, but, that would add cost and lead time. Being wood, it’s super easy to drill for rail mounting. Would threaded inserts really be necessary?

 

[Bluumoon]

We can consider inserts, but, that would add cost and lead time. Being wood, it’s super easy to drill for rail mounting. Would threaded inserts really be necessary?

no

 

[Gstew1930]

no

Same

 

[Q_Sertorius]

We can consider inserts, but, that would add cost and lead time. Being wood, it’s super easy to drill for rail mounting. Would threaded inserts really be necessary?

It depends on how end user friendly you want it to be.

Threaded inserts and a drop-down menu with a selection of rail options that will fit in those holes would be super helpful to me.

I don’t like driving to my brother’s wood shop to drill holes in a stock. I don’t know exactly how much more I am willing to pay to have a finished product that is ready to put my rifle in and start shooting, but I can tell you that something that requires me to cut, sand, and drill is worth nothing to me.

 

[Schmo]

It depends on how end user friendly you want it to be.

Threaded inserts and a drop-down menu with a selection of rail options that will fit in those holes would be super helpful to me.

I don’t like driving to my brother’s wood shop to drill holes in a stock. I don’t know exactly how much more I am willing to pay to have a finished product that is ready to put my rifle in and start shooting, but I can tell you that something that requires me to cut, sand, and drill is worth nothing to me.

We realistically only have so much flexibility for options. LS is a small operation, so a very limited staff. Having a bunch of options creates many SKUs, and adds time & cost.

I’m not trying to be sarcastic, but it doesn’t take a wood shop to drill 2-3 holes in a stock and screw a rail on. Am I missing something? Most people have a drill & drill bits around the house for DIY stuff.

 

[Bluumoon]

Options=more cost/delays. Guys who would pay more can pay more locally to get things adjusted.

 

[atmat]

Just a friendly reminder to @Schmo and @hereinaz team that you will not be able to please everyone. A ton of SKUs is never good. Find a great middle ground and you’ll have lots of buyers. I’m thrilled to try this thing.

 

[EastHumboldt]

We realistically only have so much flexibility for options. LS is a small operation, so a very limited staff. Having a bunch of options creates many SKUs, and adds time & cost.

I’m not trying to be sarcastic, but it doesn’t take a wood shop to drill 2-3 holes in a stock and screw a rail on. Am I missing something? Most people have a drill & drill bits around the house for DIY stuff.

I haven’t read the whole thread. Did anybody suggest carbon fiber rod(s) with epoxy to reinforce the wrist? If so ignore and carry on.

 

[Schmo]

Every day drill bits are not the right tool for drilling into your expensive rifle stock. They drift, tear out, etc. the right tool is a high quality Brad point or Forstner bit, and if you want the hole to be straight, a drill press.

Yes sir, I have to drill wood quite often. But even if someone needs a brad point bit, that’s a $8-$10 purchase at your local Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, or Amazon. I’m just trying to say that it doesn’t take a wood shop to mount a rail on a laminate stock.

 

[hibernation]

Just a friendly reminder to @Schmo and @hereinaz team that you will not be able to please everyone. A ton of SKUs is never good. Find a great middle ground and you’ll have lots of buyers. I’m thrilled to try this thing.

 

[EastHumboldt]

Yes sir, I have to drill wood quite often. But even if someone needs a brad point bit, that’s a $8-$10 purchase at your local Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, or Amazon. I’m just trying to say that it doesn’t take a wood shop to mount a rail on a laminate stock.

Point taken.

 

[hibernation]

We realistically only have so much flexibility for options. LS is a small operation, so a very limited staff. Having a bunch of options creates many SKUs, and adds time & cost.

I’m not trying to be sarcastic, but it doesn’t take a wood shop to drill 2-3 holes in a stock and screw a rail on. Am I missing something? Most people have a drill & drill bits around the house for DIY stuff.

Obviously we'd all love this to match our exact personal specs, but I'd be really happy with the most generic version that I can customize if I want to. That's a major part of the appeal with a laminate stock, I can drill holes where I want them, rasp off any edges I don't want, etc.

If a single "middle of the road" option keeps this project efficient and cost-effective, I'm all for it.

 

[Sponge]

what are the odds yall sell this as a flat top as well?

 

[Sundodger]

I’ll ask the designer and see if there is a realistic way to estimate the weight

All CAD programs I have used allow you to enter material properties for components and will give pretty good weight estimates based on the accuracy of those numbers.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

We realistically only have so much flexibility for options. LS is a small operation, so a very limited staff. Having a bunch of options creates many SKUs, and adds time & cost.

I’m not trying to be sarcastic, but it doesn’t take a wood shop to drill 2-3 holes in a stock and screw a rail on. Am I missing something? Most people have a drill & drill bits around the house for DIY stuff.

Schmo,

Maybe I am not your ideal customer? You won't be able to please everyone. You asked for feedback based upon specific pictures. I provided mine. Take it for what it is worth. But, just so we are clear, if this is the only SKU for sale, it is not worth anything to me:
With all due respect, when I look at that, I see a half-finished project. It is damned near perfect from the end of the action back to the buttstock (assuming 13.5-14.5" LOP and drop in ready). The front end is not finished. It looks like a 2x4. I won't pay for something that looks like a 2x4 and probably carries like a 2x4. I want a finished fore end with rounded edges and a front at a good length - no longer than 10" from the front end of the action - that doesn't look like a block. That would be worth the suggested target price range to me. The bare minimum stock needs to check these boxes, for me:
It's not just about drilling a couple of holes to mount a rail. It's about having to plane and sand the edges so they are round, cut the fore end to the right length, shape it so that it doesn't look like a block, cut the butt stock to the right LOP, mount the flush cups, mount the rail, and have everything work and be tight when I am done. All of which is done by subtractive processes that won't be particularly fun or relaxing to me. If I sign up for a project like that, I am not going to use the drill I would use to hang a picture on the wall or the saw I would use to cut off the bottom of the Christmas tree. I'm going to spend hours in a wood shop making sure that it looks and performs the way it should. And, in my world, hours of work means doing something I love, getting paid to do something, or paying someone to do it for me. I don't love wood-working... and I make more per hour than most wood-workers, so that means paying someone for the product I want. If this isn't the product I want, I won't buy it.

Add in the nice-to-haves, such as side-mounted flush cups and nice threaded holes for rails, and the price I would pay goes up. The stock with the nice-to-have options I listed in the feedback slides - side-mounted flush cups, rail mounting with drop-down menu of options that are guaranteed to work, etc. - is easily worth $800 to me. I know what I paid for side-mounted flush cups and a bottom-rear flush cup on a wooden Rokstok that didn't originally come with them and it was very reasonable and worth every penny. I could easily do that again, if this stock had the basics done right.

 

[Schmo]

The front end is not finished. It looks like a 2x4. I won't pay for something that looks like a 2x4 and probably carries like a 2x4. I want a finished fore end with rounded edges and a front at a good length - no longer than 10" from the front end of the action - that doesn't look like a block. That would be worth the suggested target price range to me.

The forend profile will most likely get adjusted. I certainly want it to be. I was directly discussing your point of threaded inserts and all that.

 

[glock233]

Agree with Q’s points. You want less blocky. Additionally this seems to be set up with the thin Limbsaver but I’d consider the thick one.

 

[OneGunTex]

We can consider inserts, but, that would add cost and lead time. Being wood, it’s super easy to drill for rail mounting. Would threaded inserts really be necessary?

Yeah, I guess that makes sense.
I would note, however, that most (all?) factory rifles with wood stocks come with at least 1 nice straight hole for a sling swivel. Perhaps y'all could set up a drill press and pre-drill a couple of nicely centered and straight holes for us?
The reason I suggested inserts, like the factory plastic Tikka stock has, was for a clean interface with standard bolt threads. I would argue that those press fit inserts cost pennies, and drilling and pressing them in takes seconds each. It would make for a much cleaner, more finished looking product. Again, premium product for a premium price.