Help LS Wild design the new stock!

[BLJ]

We will keep the support for the trigger finger that goes to the trigger guard. If you haven’t shot with that piece there, you might be surprised what your trigger finger does hanging out in space.

Personally never have but it looks like it makes sense.

Maybe leave a little extra meat right there and sand to fit?

 

[hereinaz]

Personally never have but it looks like it makes sense.

Maybe leave a little extra meat right there and sand to fit?

Yup. That is the thought, it will work as is, but leave at “max” so others can customize. Easier to take wood off than add it.

 

[Jason Snyder]

I might have to buy a T3 fast twist .243 yet. Good work.

 

[OneGunTex]

Yup. That is the thought, it will work as is, but leave at “max” so others can customize. Easier to take wood off than add it.

I'm a little bit nervous about your strategy of making everything (stock, forend, grip area, etc) oversized and then relying on customers to customize it.
I'm a pretty DIY guy, but I get real nervous cutting on things that I spent more than about $50 on. For $500, I expect to have a usable, premium product out the door.
My guess is that you're not going to refund/exchange for people when they accidentally slip with a dremel and cut a groove somewhere it's not supposed to be, or cut their stock on an angle because they have a crappy table saw fence, or cut the rail mounts off their forend because they measured and set a stop block wrong.
Not to mention the fact that if you are cutting and sanding, you're going to have to refinish.

I would suggest having 2 versions - an unfinished DIY version (maybe for a bit less $) and a totally slimmed down, finished version.

 

[hereinaz]

I'm a little bit nervous about your strategy of making everything (stock, forend, grip area, etc) oversized and then relying on customers to customize it.
I'm a pretty DIY guy, but I get real nervous cutting on things that I spent more than about $50 on. For $500, I expect to have a usable, premium product out the door.
My guess is that you're not going to refund/exchange for people when they accidentally slip with a dremel and cut a groove somewhere it's not supposed to be, or cut their stock on an angle because they have a crappy table saw fence, or cut the rail mounts off their forend because they measured and set a stop block wrong.
Not to mention the fact that if you are cutting and sanding, you're going to have to refinish.

I would suggest having 2 versions - an unfinished DIY version (maybe for a bit less $) and a totally slimmed down, finished version.

Yes, good point. this is something we keep discussing. Our idea is to use known specs and sizes and mash them up.

The stock will be 100% ready to go. There are more “out of the box” users than DIY for sure. To the extent we can leave some meat for the DIY, we are trying to keep that in mind.

The LOP will be long, so that it can be cut down. That is something that need to be addressed for every stock fit. I am planning on maybe charging $25-30 to cut to any length. I will probably include the drop to be used as spacers. (I intend to see if I can then trim the cutoff and turn it into spacers.) Trimming LOP won’t need refinishing.

Other than that, the forend will be inside the Bravo dimensions, and need no modification at all.

The grip will be modeled after the Master Sporter so it won’t need modification.

For those DIY, measure twice cut once…