Help LS Wild design the new stock!

[BLJ]

We will keep the support for the trigger finger that goes to the trigger guard. If you haven’t shot with that piece there, you might be surprised what your trigger finger does hanging out in space.

Personally never have but it looks like it makes sense.

Maybe leave a little extra meat right there and sand to fit?

 

[hereinaz]

Personally never have but it looks like it makes sense.

Maybe leave a little extra meat right there and sand to fit?

Yup. That is the thought, it will work as is, but leave at “max” so others can customize. Easier to take wood off than add it.

 

[Jason Snyder]

I might have to buy a T3 fast twist .243 yet. Good work.

 

[OneGunTex]

Yup. That is the thought, it will work as is, but leave at “max” so others can customize. Easier to take wood off than add it.

I'm a little bit nervous about your strategy of making everything (stock, forend, grip area, etc) oversized and then relying on customers to customize it.
I'm a pretty DIY guy, but I get real nervous cutting on things that I spent more than about $50 on. For $500, I expect to have a usable, premium product out the door.
My guess is that you're not going to refund/exchange for people when they accidentally slip with a dremel and cut a groove somewhere it's not supposed to be, or cut their stock on an angle because they have a crappy table saw fence, or cut the rail mounts off their forend because they measured and set a stop block wrong.
Not to mention the fact that if you are cutting and sanding, you're going to have to refinish.

I would suggest having 2 versions - an unfinished DIY version (maybe for a bit less $) and a totally slimmed down, finished version.

 

[hereinaz]

I'm a little bit nervous about your strategy of making everything (stock, forend, grip area, etc) oversized and then relying on customers to customize it.
I'm a pretty DIY guy, but I get real nervous cutting on things that I spent more than about $50 on. For $500, I expect to have a usable, premium product out the door.
My guess is that you're not going to refund/exchange for people when they accidentally slip with a dremel and cut a groove somewhere it's not supposed to be, or cut their stock on an angle because they have a crappy table saw fence, or cut the rail mounts off their forend because they measured and set a stop block wrong.
Not to mention the fact that if you are cutting and sanding, you're going to have to refinish.

I would suggest having 2 versions - an unfinished DIY version (maybe for a bit less $) and a totally slimmed down, finished version.

Yes, good point. this is something we keep discussing. Our idea is to use known specs and sizes and mash them up.

The stock will be 100% ready to go. There are more “out of the box” users than DIY for sure. To the extent we can leave some meat for the DIY, we are trying to keep that in mind.

The LOP will be long, so that it can be cut down. That is something that need to be addressed for every stock fit. I am planning on maybe charging $25-30 to cut to any length. I will probably include the drop to be used as spacers. (I intend to see if I can then trim the cutoff and turn it into spacers.) Trimming LOP won’t need refinishing.

Other than that, the forend will be inside the Bravo dimensions, and need no modification at all.

The grip will be modeled after the Master Sporter so it won’t need modification.

For those DIY, measure twice cut once…

 

[Schmo]

UPDATE:
Our CAD designer has made great progress. @Bluumoon was a champ and voluntarily sent his Master Sporter stock to the designer for the grip to be scanned. So, these renderings are with a true Master Sporter grip.

We want input from those of you that are interested. We have our own idea of tweaks that we’d like made. However, we want to withhold those ideas for right now in order to avoid influencing your feedback, and we want to hear from you. What modifications or changes would you like to see from these renderings?

Feel free to take these pics and mark them up with the modifications you’d like, and repost them.

We are making great progress.

 

[bojangles808]

Looks great. I'm assuming there will be mlok under forend similar to the Bravo to allow addition of pic rails and arca in front of magwell?

 

[Schmo]

Looks great. I'm assuming there will be mlok under forend similar to the Bravo to allow addition of pic rails and arca in front of magwell?

There currently isn’t a plan for that, but we’re not saying it wouldn’t be added. That’s why we want feedback. What is really important to potential users?

 

[nm.otter]

I'm still hoping for a cheek swell on the side of the comb.

 

[bojangles808]

There currently isn’t a plan for that, but we’re not saying it wouldn’t be added. That’s why we want feedback. What is really important to potential users?

I feel like arca in front of magwell is pretty important for tripod shooters

 

[UnckleBob]

LS Wild is in the process of bringing a new stock to market. I am collaborating on design and doing the footwork for the project. Also, while @hereinaz will be chiming in on the thread, I have been assigned to be the point man for Rokslide, thus why I’m the one starting the thread.

Mission: To create a properly designed laminate wood hunting stock that has proper geometry, yet will be carried easily, and in an acceptable weight. Laminate allows for the feel and vibration dampening of real wood, while being able to bring it to market at a price that everyone in the game will be able to afford.

I have been in touch with manufacturers and a designer for preliminary info.

Here’s a concept photo: (ignore the Boyd’s stamped on the butt, they’re not making it)

View attachment 1033295

Please keep in mind that this is a concept photo, not final design. It’s very KRG similar, but that was just a close design that I could modify for a concept.

Inlet: Tikka, of course, using standard Tikka bottom metal

Barrel channel: Typical chassis barrel channel. This means no barrel contact issues, and reduces weight

Forend: sporter-ish forend about the length of a Stocky’s VG forend.

Comb: Comb will be at centerline of bore, with a negative slope.

Grip: Close to 90°, with approximately a 1.75” trigger reach. The material at the wrist will have to be taller than pictured to avoid breaking. The finger nub may or may not stay.

Toe line: nice flat toe line

The skeletonized buttstock is necessary for dropping weight, since laminate tends to be heavy. We will make the window as large as possible, while retaining necessary dimensions for structural integrity.

We will be doing everything realistically possible to make it as light as possible. I don’t have numbers on that yet.

Give us realistic design inputs. If there is a reason you wouldn’t buy this stock, what is that reason, and would you purchase if that were addressed?

Also, realistic suggestions for a name would be great.

Okay, talk to me!

Drop the sling stud swivels and go with flush cups.

 

[Schmo]

Here’s feedback from @Hemoglobin_97

“I think my main 3 revisions which you've already likely considered, are (1) soften sharp points to flow with the curviness of the rest. (2) bigger radius along the forearm, less blocky while retaining a flat bottom. (3) as you mentioned round the forend”

 

[Q_Sertorius]

The finish looks great. I don't like doing my own wood work, so I would prefer a finished product. With that said, this is really close to being something I would want. Everything from the action back looks great to me. Here are my comments:



Edit - my comments could be more clear with regards to the butt stock. I really like it the way it looks in these pictures. I also would not mind if it was tastefully skeletonized to save weight.

And, as far as the LOP is concerned, I like a standard 13.5” LOP, but I think making LOP kits out of trimmed 0.25-0.5” pieces and black spacers could look really cool. And I am not dead set on a particular LOP. I just know that I like what I have used in the past.

 

[Halligan]

@Schmo I think @Q_Sertorius just about nailed it. You incorporate those factors (which I feel like you may have been doing in the background) and you'll have a real winner. I'll certainly be interested in this.

Now, one thought I did have in regard to skeletonizing is: would it make any sense to just simply route with a ball bit, length-wise, down the underside of the fore end? I know this may sound strange, but the portion of it between the front of the action and rail section seems free for trimming if you need a place to eliminate material. It may not look too funky if you do it right.

 

[bwood1]

The finish looks great. I don't like doing my own wood work, so I would prefer a finished product. With that said, this is really close to being something I would want. Everything from the action back looks great to me. Here are my comments:View attachment 1071767
View attachment 1071768
View attachment 1071770

I second rounding the edges on the fore end. Looks a little too bench resty

 

[ckt3]

Agreed with the detailed feedback above. Rear end looks great and fore end looks like the MDT April Fool’s chassis. Just needs more smoothing so the whole thing is sleek and uniform.

Awesome progress!! And I will again advocate for a left handed version (or maybe if you don’t do one, you could send a stock without the bolt handle cut on the right side and we’d cut our own on the left side).

 

[wind gypsy]

There currently isn’t a plan for that, but we’re not saying it wouldn’t be added. That’s why we want feedback. What is really important to potential users?

Seems like added cost/weight that not everyone would benefit from. I like the sound of it though. I’d prob add FL arca but that could be drilled in pretty easy.

 

[swavescatter]

The finish looks great. I don't like doing my own wood work, so I would prefer a finished product. With that said, this is really close to being something I would want. Everything from the action back looks great to me. Here are my comments:View attachment 1071767
View attachment 1071768
View attachment 1071770

Edit - my comments could be more clear with regards to the butt stock. I really like it the way it looks in these pictures. I also would not mind if it was tastefully skeletonized to save weight.

And, as far as the LOP is concerned, I like a standard 13.5” LOP, but I think making LOP kits out of trimmed 0.25-0.5” pieces and black spacers could look really cool. And I am not dead set on a particular LOP. I just know that I like what I have used in the past.

Flush cups are better on the side opposite the bolt so that it sits better on your back in a sling. Otherwise I agree with most of your suggestions.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Flush cups are better on the side opposite the bolt so that it sits better on your back in a sling. Otherwise I agree with most of your suggestions.

They are on the side opposite the bolt in my diagram.

They are also on the bottom, because I like having them there as well.

 

[OneGunTex]

Agree with everyone's comments on making it sleeker, which will also make it lighter.

It's impossible to please everyone on Pic/Arca/bipod adapter/sling swivel - I would recommend just putting a bunch of threaded inserts (like, more than normal), and let people buy their own rails.