Help LS Wild design the new stock!

[hereinaz]

Thanks for the interest! We're excited about this project.

It will be at least a few weeks to get the design completed. Once that is done, we'll be able to talk pricing and timetable.

 

[lefthandedasian]

I’m not sure if we’re ready to spitball a price yet. (Obviously, we have a goal in mind but need some more info to confirm).

Currently, it looks like the stock will be handed. If this is the case for the production version, then we would definitely be looking at having a left handed version available. That would likely require a few people to commit to purchasing to satisfy design costs, as the CAD designer would have to make that change, and then the manufacturer would have some adjustments to make. Obviously, shouldn’t be as much cost as the initial development.

I'll commit to purchasing a lefty now

 

[NDHUNTER24]

@hereinaz I probably missed it, but is there a rough price point? Also would a guy be able to use factory tikka bottom metal?

 

[hereinaz]

@hereinaz I probably it, but is there a rough price point? Also would a guy be able to use factory tikka bottom metal?

It will be inlet for factory bottom metal.

I expect price to come in with a premium above what a similar Boyd’s costs. It’s going to be a “budget” option in the grand scheme of stock pricing.

 

[bojangles808]

It will be inlet for factory bottom metal.

I expect price to come in with a premium above what a similar Boyd’s costs. It’s going to be a “budget” option in the grand scheme of stock pricing.

any idea if it will be closer to 2lbs or 3lbs? the mocks ups look great

 

[Schmo]

any idea if it will be closer to 2lbs or 3lbs? the mocks ups look great

If we could have our cake and eat it too, 32-36 ounces would be the dream. But that might not be realistic. I think once the CAD is done, a weight can be estimated by either the CAD designer or the manufacturer.

 

[hereinaz]

any idea if it will be closer to 2lbs or 3lbs? the mocks ups look great

As far as weight, it will come on the heavy side, because it will be long LOP and forend to then cut down. The portions to cut will not be skeletonized to allow for it.

If we could have our cake and eat it too, 32-36 ounces would be the dream. But that might not be realistic. I think once the CAD is done, a weight can be estimated by either the CAD designer or the manufacturer.

I think we can get close with the skeletonized and trimmed version.

 

[hereinaz]

Here is the first pass to get the lines, so you can see it is a mashup of the Bravo, Mastersporter, with a bit of above bore negative comb.

We are going to start smoothing the forend and @Bluumoon is sending his Master Sporter to have scanned.

We will also add skelotonize to the butt.

The top line is held down below the ejection port and serial number, more like chassis than many stocks.

1 14.5” LOP parallel butt to cut down to 12.5” and slap the buttpad back on. It’s perpendicular to the toe, so it can be cut in a table saw. Keep the cut off for a spacer.
2 Master Sporter grip
3 Bravo trigger reach
4 long solid forend to cut down.

 

[hereinaz]

Inspiration plus push butt above bore line and add a little negative comb and flat toe.

 

[nm.otter]

Regarding handedness, a reminder bump from earlier.

Also note the riser comment here.

 

[BBob]

Why keep all of that material from the master sporter? Get rid of it and follow the bravo’s lines. I personally don’t like the extra material bearing against and potentially restricting my hand. It also gets in the way of where I want to place my thumb. It’ll shed another bit of weight as well.

 

[hereinaz]

View attachment 1066615
Why keep all of that material from the master sporter? Get rid of it and follow the bravo’s lines. I personally don’t like the extra material bearing against and potentially restricting my hand. It also gets in the way of where I want to place my thumb. It’ll shed another bit of weight as well.

Agreed, I think that area should follow the Bravo so it is reduced right below the tang.

it is on the list to tweak.

 

[SDHNTR]

I didn’t read through the whole thread, but can you remove the bolt without disassembly?

And what is the final design version? What is shown above in post number 308? Or what was shown in the original post? That first rendition is way too wild for me.

 

[Schmo]

I didn’t read through the whole thread, but can you remove the bolt without disassembly?

And what is the final design version? What is shown above in post number 308? Or what was shown in the original post? That first rendition is way too wild for me.

I think you’ll be able to remove the bolt without disassembling.

We don’t have the final design yet. It’s being tweaked currently. Post #308 is just the first rough rendition by the CAD designer. It will be revised

 

[Schmo]

View attachment 1066615
Why keep all of that material from the master sporter? Get rid of it and follow the bravo’s lines. I personally don’t like the extra material bearing against and potentially restricting my hand. It also gets in the way of where I want to place my thumb. It’ll shed another bit of weight as well.

Yes, definitely in favor of removing that material.

 

[hereinaz]

I think you’ll be able to remove the bolt without disassembling.

We don’t have the final design yet. It’s being tweaked currently. Post #308 is just the first rough rendition by the CAD designer. It will be revised

Yes, bolt can be pulled, the slope of the comb accommodates that.

 

[shomi]

I like what you guys are developing here @hereinaz and @Schmo. Here's another wood stock for inspiration. I like that the "saddle" on the CZ 457 MTR stock is not cut so low. The low cut seems unnecessary to me since the thumb doesn't cross over. This leaves more wood for strength/stiffness. The grip is right handed, and very comfortable to my hand.

 

[hereinaz]

I like what you guys are developing here @hereinaz and @Schmo. Here's another wood stock for inspiration. I like that the "saddle" on the CZ 457 MTR stock is not cut so low. The low cut seems unnecessary to me since the thumb doesn't cross over. This leaves more wood for strength/stiffness. The grip is right handed, and very comfortable to my hand.

View attachment 1066698

Can you get me pics of the grip at a bunch of different angles so I can see how deep the grip goes?

Besides this project, I am working in secret with @NSI on a very similar function CF stock. I am lobbying for making them “handed” because it is the best way for precision.