Hang On Stand Hacks

Kilboars

WKR
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Dec 22, 2013
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West Palm Beach, Fla
An idea I’ve had for a while to get these hang on platforms level on difficult trees.

You put a heavy duty bolt into one side or the other of the square tubing either on the base or the top. You can adjust the length by adjusting the nut on the bolt. See photo.

Also, stainless steel cables with stainless steel screws into the tree so you don’t have to worry about replacing straps every year or so. It will also let the tree grow easier without snapping the straps.

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Wheels

WKR
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Missouri
Anything screwed into the tree is eventually going to fail. Why not just a stainless cable around the tree?
 

Swamp Fox

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Not an expert on how trees do or do not degrade stainless steel bolts left in them for years, but I wouldn't trust the integrity of anything buried in a pine for long. Even if the bolt survives, the holding power of the tree might not. (Rot, infestation, etc.) Better to inspect and attach on the outside of the tree and change straps annually.

As to the adjustable bolt idea: Liking it so far. Would like a screw point or filed point rather than a bolt head for hardwoods/other than pines. How is that attached to the tubing? Welded?

Leaning back or forward trees can be solved with adjustable stands off the shelf if you want. I guess you are dealing with a lot of side-leaners?
 

Rich M

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Look at the bracket for Hunting Beast Stands, I think they sell it separate.

Good idea with the bolt.

I don't hunt out of lock ons anymore - not exactly a small guy and when you put 275# stepping from sticks to stand, something is usually gonna shift. Prefer ladders and climber.

I always replaced my straps if they showed signs of wear or weathering. Would loosen the straps at the end of the season and tighten them at beginning of season. Takes like 1 minute.
 

WoodBow

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I use a woodpecker drill to tap a hole and then screw in a large lag bolt. 1/2" maybe. Can't remember exactly. I mod my hang on so it has a notch that slides over the lag bolt. I adjust depth of bolt so it barely slides over it. Then when I fold down the platform, everything sucks up tight and is rock solid. Zero noise. No strap to stretch and bounce when you are on edge of platform.

I use 6" grade 8 bolts for steps. There isn't a smaller packing or lighter climbing system on the market. The first climb takes a little longer than with sticks, but pulling gear on the way down is way faster. Or if I like the spot, those bolts are there forever. No cheaper way to have multiple spots prepped.

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OP
Kilboars

Kilboars

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Anything screwed into the tree is eventually going to fail. Why not just a stainless cable around the tree?

As the tree will grow, it will eventually kill the tree.

The steel hang on, will fail before the stainless steel cable and screws


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OP
Kilboars

Kilboars

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Not an expert on how trees do or do not degrade stainless steel bolts left in them for years, but I wouldn't trust the integrity of anything buried in a pine for long. Even if the bolt survives, the holding power of the tree might not. (Rot, infestation, etc.) Better to inspect and attach on the outside of the tree and change straps annually.

As to the adjustable bolt idea: Liking it so far. Would like a screw point or filed point rather than a bolt head for hardwoods/other than pines. How is that attached to the tubing? Welded?

Leaning back or forward trees can be solved with adjustable stands off the shelf if you want. I guess you are dealing with a lot of side-leaners?

The bolt is just sliding into the square tubing.

Many trees, even if their straight have variations on how the trunk grows on the outside.
Just always irritating sitting on a tree stand for hours, leaning one way or the other.


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OP
Kilboars

Kilboars

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Look at the bracket for Hunting Beast Stands, I think they sell it separate.

Good idea with the bolt.

I don't hunt out of lock ons anymore - not exactly a small guy and when you put 275# stepping from sticks to stand, something is usually gonna shift. Prefer ladders and climber.

I always replaced my straps if they showed signs of wear or weathering. Would loosen the straps at the end of the season and tighten them at beginning of season. Takes like 1 minute.

Good practice to have adjusting those traps each year, I found some of these Chyna made steps. The pins will actually pull out of the metal brackets as soon as the straps get some tension on them.
I also put the stainless steel cables on the step sections.


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Kilboars

Kilboars

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I use a woodpecker drill to tap a hole and then screw in a large lag bolt. 1/2" maybe. Can't remember exactly. I mod my hang on so it has a notch that slides over the lag bolt. I adjust depth of bolt so it barely slides over it. Then when I fold down the platform, everything sucks up tight and is rock solid. Zero noise. No strap to stretch and bounce when you are on edge of platform.

I use 6" grade 8 bolts for steps. There isn't a smaller packing or lighter climbing system on the market. The first climb takes a little longer than with sticks, but pulling gear on the way down is way faster. Or if I like the spot, those bolts are there forever. No cheaper way to have multiple spots prepped.

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Very interesting, do you have any photos?


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Swamp Fox

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The bolt is just sliding into the square tubing.

Many trees, even if their straight have variations on how the trunk grows on the outside.
Just always irritating sitting on a tree stand for hours, leaning one way or the other.


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Seems like you have a plate at the end of the square tubing of the stand that the bolt runs through and that the nut snugs up against. Please tell me about that attachment.


Sorry if I'm missing something simple , LOL .

I'm a simple man ... :eek:
 
OP
Kilboars

Kilboars

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Seems like you have a plate at the end of the square tubing of the stand that the bolt runs through and that the nut snugs up against. Please tell me about that attachment.


Sorry if I'm missing something simple , LOL .

I'm a simple man ... :eek:

those are just large washers.


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WoodBow

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Very interesting, do you have any photos?


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The drill goes on about 2.5" and hits a stop. You spin it a few more times to clean up the hole and then pull it straight out. Bolts just slide in and out, as they are slightly under sized. I did not invent this system. Many people use it. Search woodpecker climbing drill for where to buy it. I ordered my bolts off ebay and added marine heat shrink to quiet them.

The stand I use is a millenium m7 microlite. It has a heavy aluminum tab on the back that is designed to slide into an over built tree bracket that comes with it. It's a pretty clunky system for a mobile hunted. I just used an angle grinder to connect some of te preexisting holes, to form a slot for the bolt. I tested it at ground level aggressively. I even tested it with a normal bolt that will just slide in and out like the steps. Even leveraging on the edge of the platform, it only slides the bolt out maybe 3/8". I wouldn't hunt like that, I just wanted to see how much force was being applied to try to pull the lag out of the tree. Very little it seams. All the force seems to be more vertical. I have used this system for 3 years now. Straps seems like such a hassle now.
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sconnieVLP

Lil-Rokslider
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Oct 11, 2022
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288
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AL
Look at the bracket for Hunting Beast Stands, I think they sell it separate.

Good idea with the bolt.

I don't hunt out of lock ons anymore - not exactly a small guy and when you put 275# stepping from sticks to stand, something is usually gonna shift. Prefer ladders and climber.

I always replaced my straps if they showed signs of wear or weathering. Would loosen the straps at the end of the season and tighten them at beginning of season. Takes like 1 minute.
This is interesting to me, I have found ladders to be much noisier than lock-ons and prefer lock-ons for how much quieter I have found them to be.

What kind of lock-on were having troubles with shifting and what kind of ladder stand are you not having those problems with? My old man prefers the ease of getting into/out of ladders so if there’s something that works well for presets back home I’m intrigued. I blew two opportunities a couple weeks ago hunting from preset ladders that screeched with the tiniest movement.
 

sconnieVLP

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Oct 11, 2022
Messages
288
Location
AL
99% of my hunting is mobile so my stand goes in and out with me every hunt. My favorite “hack” I’ve found is the Genesis 3D strap stager:

https://genesis3dprinting.com/products/strap-stager

It’s a simple little 3D printed piece with some shock cord, but it lets you put the cam buckle strap wherever you want it on the tree, holds the loops where you want them, and precludes trying to hold the stand in place while you’re swinging a strap around the tree. Super easy and super quiet.
 

N2TRKYS

WKR
Joined
Apr 17, 2016
Messages
4,246
Location
Alabama
I’ve never had any issues with leveling my lock ons the way they come from the factory. I’ve never had to do any of these things to them. I’ve only been using lock ons since the mid 90s, though.
 
OP
Kilboars

Kilboars

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Dec 22, 2013
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West Palm Beach, Fla
This is interesting to me, I have found ladders to be much noisier than lock-ons and prefer lock-ons for how much quieter I have found them to be.

What kind of lock-on were having troubles with shifting and what kind of ladder stand are you not having those problems with? My old man prefers the ease of getting into/out of ladders so if there’s something that works well for presets back home I’m intrigued. I blew two opportunities a couple weeks ago hunting from preset ladders that screeched with the tiniest movement.

I prefer ladders myself. I’m hunting Private land do they can stay up.

I add duct tape to all metal parts connecting to each other as a silencer.

This seems to kill all metal noise.


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