Gun building question from a total novice

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Nov 10, 2024
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I’m looking to build a 22 creedmoor and trying to find a fairly cost effective way to do this.

I’m a total novice when it comes to building a rifle. Is there any reason I can’t buy a 6.5 creed rifle, say a tikka and buy a pre fit 22 creed barrel and have my local gun smith install? Is that all I would need?

I’m open to any feedback on what I should consider and the right way to do this.

Thanks in advance.


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wyogoat

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I’m looking to build a 22 creedmoor and trying to find a fairly cost effective way to do this.

I’m a total novice when it comes to building a rifle. Is there any reason I can’t buy a 6.5 creed rifle, say a tikka and buy a pre fit 22 creed barrel and have my local gun smith install? Is that all I would need?

I’m open to any feedback on what I should consider and the right way to do this.

Thanks in advance.


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You can definitely do it this way. Instead of spending money with a gunsmith, borrow the tools and do it yourself and behold, you’re a gunmaker.
I bet half the guys on here did exactly that with their Tikkas. I did that to get a 6 cm.
Took less than an hour (minus the trip to Lowe’s to get a pipe to use as more leverage.)
 
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You can definitely do it this way. Instead of spending money with a gunsmith, borrow the tools and do it yourself and behold, you’re a gunmaker.
I bet half the guys on here did exactly that with their Tikkas. I did that to get a 6 cm.
Took less than an hour (minus the trip to Lowe’s to get a pipe to use as more leverage.)

Is it just a matter of getting the torque correct?


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wyogoat

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Is it just a matter of getting the torque correct?


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Others with more experience than my sample size of one may pipe up but that is one factor for sure. I went by recommended torque in installing my new barrel.
One reason I recommend it is because I could not be happier. It is legitimately the most accurate rifle I own and did it in my basement in a few minutes.
 
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Others with more experience than my sample size of one may pipe up but that is one factor for sure. I went by recommended torque in installing my new barrel.
One reason I recommend it is because I could not be happier. It is legitimately the most accurate rifle I own and did it in my basement in a few minutes.

That’s my thinking as well and seems like the cheapest factory rifle is $2500. Just seems a guy could find a way on his own to do it cheaper.


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BBob

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Grease tenon threads and shoulder with an EP bearing grease. Snug the new barrel on the action by hand. Put a sharpie mark horizontally across the action and barrel interface. Put it in the barrel vise tight. Twist that sucker till you move the marks ~3/16" apart. You'll be at minimum 80ft lbs and likely north of that by a bit and probably approaching 100ft lbs. Anything in that range will be just fine. BTW this applies to any 16 TPI threaded tenon including a Remington. Other TPI's will vary.
 
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wyogoat

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Wyogoat

What’s the recommended torque ?

Hal
The recommended torque for torquing a Tikka barrel to the action is between 60–80 ft-lbs, though there is some debate on the exact value. Some recommend hand-tight, while others recommend up to 150 ft-lbs.

This is what a google search reveals…pretty broad! I shot for 60. And only because I had a torque wrench that came with an LMT AR laying around. Otherwise I would have just gone until it didn’t move anymore.
 

Article 4

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The recommended torque for torquing a Tikka barrel to the action is between 60–80 ft-lbs, though there is some debate on the exact value. Some recommend hand-tight, while others recommend up to 150 ft-lbs.

This is what a google search reveals…pretty broad! I shot for 60. And only because I had a torque wrench that came with an LMT AR laying around. Otherwise I would have just gone until it didn’t move anymore.
IME experience getting the torque right is important but a few of the gunsmiths I have seen screw bbls on havent ever used a torque wrench. They get tight and give it another pull and done.
I use a torque wrench however. It makes me feel better

The only other suggestion is to get go-no go gauges. This will ensure the internal tolerances are correct
 

wyogoat

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I like torque because I can measure it so I agree. And I had a wrench.
A buddy of mine did the same barrel and same action and went by feel and his shoots as well as mine so maybe that set up is just pretty forgiving.
I agree also on the go/no go gauge as another way to determine if you got it right.
Again, I’ve only done one so I’m definitely no expert. Maybe I just got lucky.
 
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