First- "Moxford's" post above, has great points.
My 2 cents:
With "real" radios, transmission watts are higher and that's great, but it is really mostly about having a quality antenna. Generally speaking, the longer, the better. So you need a radio w/a detachable antenna. Unscrew the stock rubber ducky and install a longer dual frequency antennae if you want FRS/GMRS and VHF functionality. I use the Nagoya NA771 antenna (approx. 16 inches long). Stunning performance. Just toss the stock rubber ducky that came w/the radio because it's a poor performer- or keep it as a spare.
PRO-Tip: Any hand held radio (even blister pack) is best held/used w/antenna oriented vertically for best antennae performance. It may look cool and casual to have your antenna tilted or parallel to the ground, but you're only looking cool to yourself when you're near the max transmission distance of your unit and can't understand your partner's transmission.
My bro and I carry cheap, blister packs Midlands that are water resistant for actual hunting scenarios where we're w/in half mile or so of each other. They work great with push to talk ear bud/boom microphones and their stubby rubber antenna are never in the way. You can drop them, abuse them and they still work! They last for days on one set of batteries.
For communicating to/with a base camp that's several miles away in seriously mountainous terrain, I use a Baofeng at prescribed contact times... but this is really just overkill when you're within any reasonable distance of your partner and quite frankly, like "Mox" stated above, it's incredibly rude to continuously transmit on high power like a buffoon, stepping on everyone else with the high output.
PRO TIP: You can program Baofeng's w/multiple channels and have some channels programmed to function at lower watts and some programmed at higher watts. Then you can select your lower power channels and save power when it's not needed, this also avoids the buffoon factor of rudely stepping on others. Don't be THAT guy.
When not in use, my Baofengs have their antennae removed and battery pulled since the radio bodies are not water resistant at all. Radio and battery then live in waterproof heavy duty ziplocks in my backpack lid between usage. Antennae stores alongside or inside my bugle tube in my side pocket on my pack.
OOPS TIP: NEVER, ever install a radio's battery unless the antennae is already installed. If you hit the transmit button by accident w/o the antennae on, odds are good you can toss that radio in the garbage.
DOSE OF REALITY TIP: With a good antenna, there is probably not too much performance/range difference between the dual power 1-4 watt Baofengs operating at 4w and the tripower 1w-4w-8w Baofengs that cost twice as much, when operating at 8w. If buying real estate is all about location, location, location-- using a radio is all about antenna, antenna, antenna. Antenna performance is purely accretive. However, transmission power works based on some sort of geometric function (I don't know the specific equation), but bottom line is that 4w of power does not give you any where near 4 times the range over 1w of transmission power; similarly, 8w power will not give double the range of 4w. But 8w power, will certainly burn your battery MUCH faster than 4w or 1w.
DOSE of REALITY TIP: Programming Chinese radios (yes-- I said "Chinese") has a steep learning curve and is a bit of a PITA the first time around.
Get yourself a HAM Technician's license (this is the most basic/easiest test take) so you can avoid regulatory problems, I have started studying and it doesn't seem like too much effort.
Here is a link to a study guide:
http://www.kb6nu.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2014-no-nonsense-tech-study-guide-v20.pdf
The test is multiple choice, 35 questions and you only need 26 correct to pass. Page #1 of the link above gives you all the facts...
JL