G5 Outdoors T3 broadhead question.

[IZZY]

Anyone ever used the T3 for elk? Not sure if it is suitable or not...just curious...also, anyone knows where I can buy just the head for the T3 without the blades? Or is that something I have to buy altogether?...I wrote G5 in regards to both questions but no answer...

Thanks in advance...

 

[RosinBag]

They are extremely dull for a broad head. I like G5, but not this particular product.

 

[jjenness]

I have killed several elk with the T3, and have been on hunts with friends that also killed elk with them. No problem as far as I am concerned. I killed this bull last year with the T3.

 

[IZZY]

nice bull jjenness...rosin, from the little I know and been trying to research on this broadhead, I am finding more and more articles that are saying that it is sharp enough for elk, and that I should focus more on shot placement...I used to be a fan of the Montec CS, but I just wanted something that flew like my field points...

 

[RosinBag]

I think shot placement trumps everything regarding broad heads. It is a marginal shot where sharpness and durability come into play. A double lung shot or heart shot with a field point will kill and animal. With every broadhead out there, there are good and bad reviews. I don't think they are as sharp as Montec CS's and those are just barely sharp when compared to others.

 

[IZZY]

I agree that they are not as sharp as the CS...I don't know why but I just seem to like G5 products more than most others...I am trying to get ready for Elk season again, and since I was not able to get one last season, figured I would try the T3 this season. Just trying to get insights from folks that have more experience than I do...

 

[Arbutusbucks]

I have not used T3's on elk but got pass throughs on two Whitetail. I agree that they are not as sharp out of the box as some, but they are a no nonsense mech which gives confidence. Good entry and exit in my experience as well. I know you asked specifically about elk but thought I would share. I shot my elk this year with a NAP Killzone and it did the job quick. Would have rather had the T3 on my arrow but I switched to D6 inserts.

 

[IZZY]

That is definitely one more elk than I got last season Arbutus, so I welcome the comment....do you know if G5 sells just the heads without the blades, reason being am trying to fit up to 6 additional arrows for just practice with the practice blades I have six arrows with the hunting blades already and I don't want to get the heads dinged up or lost...would be cheaper if I can just buy the heads without the blades, and I can fit the practice blades that I have on them...

 

[Arbutusbucks]

I haven't seen them for sale with just the bare head but maybe you can call g5 on that one.

 

[IZZY]

Thanks...I sent them an email but no answer...will probably call tomorrow...

 

[SDHNTR]

I used to be a fan of the Montec CS, but I just wanted something that flew like my field points...

This is telling you something. I hate to be "that guy", but if this is your problem, IMO, looking at a mechanical is just a bad "band-aid" solution. Tune your bow and your form and you can shoot any broadhead you want. The Montec CS is a very good flying broadhead. I personally don't like it for other reasons (IMO, pot metal has no place in a broadhead), but that's another story. If you can't get one of them to fly right you have other problems. Tune, and then if you still want to shoot a mech, so be it, but dont look at one as a substitute for tuning.

 

[Evan Williams]

I love the way they shoot! Some of my best longer distance groups but in 2011 right before season I had a few conversations with food friends who had used them and only had a single blade deploy OR two and one guy who actually didn't have ANY!

That put shadow of doubt in my head and I switched them out last minute.

I also have to echo RosinBag on their sharpness! Not impressed

 

[IZZY]

SDHNTR I am relatively new to the whole stick and string scene, picked it up last January after I got back from my deployment...so please forgive me ahead of time...when you said my bow might have been out of tune or that I need to tune it, am not exactly sure where I would begin...it is a brand new bow, shouldn't it be tuned? I had it set up at the PSE factory (luckily for me I live about 30 mins away)....I noticed the Montecs where shooting about 5-8 inches low and to the left about 3-5 inches, so generally speaking at the 7-8 o'clock position...my field points were giving me about 4 inch groups at about 40 yards...(was instructed that I should be grouping about 1 inch for every 10 yds)...so that's what I aim for when am shooting...since I swapped to the T3s, my field points and the T3s (with practice blade) have basically been right on top of each other....so am I wrong in assuming that my bow is tuned? You know what they say when you assume...

 

[SDHNTR]

If montecs are that far off, you have some serious tuning work to do. When fps and bhs hit together that is a sign of a good tune. Tuning can mean a lot of things. Its a big topic and too much to explain here, but you can likely get some info by internet searching. I suggest hitting your pro shop. No, just because a bow is new does not mean its tuned. They all need set up work right out of the box. And even if it was tuned at one point, strings and cable stretch as they break in and can work themselves back out of tune. To some, there are valid reasons to shoot a mechanical, but to do so to avoid tuning is a bad idea IMO. Got back to the shop and tell them your field tips and broads are that far off. They will likely do some string and cable twisting and some rest movements but any halfway decent shop should know how to broadhead tune.

 

[RosinBag]

Izzy, I have different thoughts on the broad head field point debate as a tuning issue in regards to different points of impacts.

At close range, 40 or less it is easy to tune the two together for point of impact. At a certain distance they will separate as the broad head loses speed faster because of drag.

I have shot broad heads and field points thru the chronograph at 100 yards and depending on your initial speed the difference can be 10-15 fps between the two. So the broad head will be low.

Once the speed starts to separate to a degree that substantially affects point of impact, tuning or form can't help that.

If you can get broad heads to group with field points at 30 or 40 your bow and you AE doing fine. Don't beat your self up.

Some will say they get theirs shooting the same out to 80 or more. I would contend the size of the group opens up some and an 10" group at 80 is ok for their purpose. But 10" is a lot of dispersion. Bh's 4" low of field points is close enough in their standard.

Just saying your issue may not be you, your form or your tune.

 

[IZZY]

Interesting points...learning something new everyday...I will be getting my bow checked out at the pro shop for tuning...for now, by field points are shooting virtually the same as the T3 practice heads...so am really happy about the groups of the T3s as I stated earlier, am just curious if those heads are good enough for Elk and other big game....don't want to injure one and not harvest it...will continue to practice with the T3s and since I see that people are harvesting elks with T3s I will give it a shot...

 

[brushape]

i found one stuck in a pig I shot, it had about 22" of penetration and stopped against the lower jaw but the pig was alive and well and I actually didnt know it was wounded

 

[doverpack12]

The T3's will do the trick. Practice, work on form and shot routine so when you do have an opportunity you make the shot you want and the arrow flies where you aimed. I have found alot of people do not understand how the spider clips work and accidentally hook the blade tabs under the spider clip causing the blades to either not deploy or deploy late. Watch the G5 video on how to install the blades and its easy to get right.

 

[SDHNTR]

Izzy, I have different thoughts on the broad head field point debate as a tuning issue in regards to different points of impacts.

At close range, 40 or less it is easy to tune the two together for point of impact. At a certain distance they will separate as the broad head loses speed faster because of drag.

I have shot broad heads and field points thru the chronograph at 100 yards and depending on your initial speed the difference can be 10-15 fps between the two. So the broad head will be low.

Once the speed starts to separate to a degree that substantially affects point of impact, tuning or form can't help that.

If you can get broad heads to group with field points at 30 or 40 your bow and you AE doing fine. Don't beat your self up.

Some will say they get theirs shooting the same out to 80 or more. I would contend the size of the group opens up some and an 10" group at 80 is ok for their purpose. But 10" is a lot of dispersion. Bh's 4" low of field points is close enough in their standard.

Just saying your issue may not be you, your form or your tune.

While I don't disagree with Doug in that fixed heads will create more drag, after lots of shooting out to 80, with a good tune I've noticed no discernable difference with broadheads dropping. Sure the groups open up more at that range, but I can't say the BH's are consistently low. Just my experience. For reasonable hunting ranges, I'm completely confident that tuning to the point of being able to say the BH's and FP's fly together is entirely possible. Or at least close enough together where I can't tell the difference.

 

[bohntr]

I'll settle the debate between my two buds above because they're both correct, IMO.......I did A LOT of testing out to 100 yards with numerous different broadheads and specifically compared them to field points accuracy. The only difference was, I was using a shooting machine (hooter shooter) to eliminate all human factors. What I found, was that no broadhead shot EXACTLY as a field point at distances 40 yards+.....no matter how well the bow was tuned. However, there were some that were within 3/4" of field point impact....even at 80 yards, which if shot by an archer (without the machine) would tend to make him/her believe they fly exactly the same.

There were several manufactured heads that flew within 1" of field point impact out to longer ranges. The best one was 3/4" difference out to 80 yards. That's pretty amazing if you ask me.