Full size vs Neck size case for long range hunting 1000 yds

[mt.ghost]

Is fire formed then neck sizing a must to shoot 1000yds or can you just full size them?


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[Beastmode]

I think it all depends on the gun. I shot some incredible groups this year at distance with virgin brass. That being said I don't think virgin brass will always be 100% consistent. If you use fire formed brass from that gun you can guarantee you won't have as bad of inconsistencies.

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[mt.ghost]

What about fire form then full size?


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[rayporter]

full length is best. you need to size it so it just barely allows the bolt to close. you can repeat this and you should not run into trouble with brass not fitting, especially with max loads.

 

[Justin Crossley]

Is fire formed then neck sizing a must to shoot 1000yds or can you just full size them?


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I've sized brass just about every different way you can think of including neck sizing only, full length sizing, neck bushing and then shoulder bump, and all different types of dies. I really think it has more to do with your gun than anything. The most accurate rifle I own very consistently shoots under .5 moa and I have only ever used a Redding full length sizing die for that brass.

 

[Mtslackcountry]

full length is best. you need to size it so it just barely allows the bolt to close. you can repeat this and you should not run into trouble with brass not fitting, especially with max loads.

Ray,

Im new to loading. How do go about doing this? By not screwing the die down very tight to the shell holder when its in the upmost position?

 

[rayporter]

pm sent. mtslackcountry

 

[MontanaMarine]

I've also done neck, and full length sizing, and haven't really seen a relevant difference in accuracy.

What I found with prolonged neck sizing was my headspace was getting tighter and tighter. Eventually I slightly galled a bolt lug.

After that, I went to full length resizing. I was probably over-working the brass, but soon was having some case head separations.

So now I've refined my resizing to a neck size via a Lee Collet Die, and a shoulder bump with a Forster bushing bump neck sizing die.

I could do it all with the Forster die, using the neck sizing bushing, but I like the Lee Collet Die for the neck size, because it regulates neck tension via the diameter of the inner mandrel. This makes variations in neck thickness irrelevant. Yes it's an extra step, but not really high volume ammo production, so it works out ok for me.

This method keeps headspace just right, and brass life is good since I'm minimizing how much the brass gets worked/stretched through firing and resizing.

Shane

 

[RCA Dog]

I use a Lee collet neck sizer almost all the time, but every so often (like every 10 firings or so) I give the shoulder a bump with a redding body die. I like the collet die because there is no lube, and it's not working the brass anywhere near what a normal full length sizing operation does. It's easy to get the neck tension you want, just have to polish the mandrel a bit if you want more. That being said, if I was using range pickup brass, or random pieces from different lots, I would definitely full length size and trim. The 2 rifles that I load this way for have extremely tight chambers, so I'm not working the brass much at all, but yours might be different.

 

[GKPrice]

I use a Redding full length die and Redding competition shell holders - adjust the die with the #10 installed then replace it with the #2, size a case and see if it will chamber in your rifle, if it will not chamber go to the #4 and repeat and so on until your sized brass with chamber - I like just a perceptible amount of pressure to close the bolt - It's worked well for me for many years in 7 different cartridges

 

[Muley Buck]

I prefer to fire form and then just use a bushing bump die. But then again I've shot virgin brass (norma) and it's shot extremely well also. I'd try to shoot neck sized first, see if you have problems. If so go full length. I'm with Justin Crossley though, it really depends on how finicky the rifle is. It may not matter.

 

[16Bore]

FL to minimal headspace, especially if dealing with a belted magnum.

 

[Jay03]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned having dies made for your chamber from an outfit like Whidden gunworks. Especially if spending thousands on a custom rifle and scope for long range shooting. Chambers vary from rifle to rifle, especially customs with reamers being tinkered with for peak performance and wildcat rounds. I have tried neck sizing, full lengh, and bushing bump dies. After spending a good sum of money on a custom rifle and what I thought were top of the line redding competition dies I then got a 21st century concentricity gauge. Wow was I surprised how out of concentric some of the brass and loaded rounds were from various dies I was using and sizing methods. I sent 3 fired cases off to Whidden and had a non bushing sizer made. What a difference is made in my reloads for that rifle. Also the sizers are made slightly short and a shoulder gauge is included with each sizer die so you can control the amount of shoulder bump back.

So my short answer is FL with a custom made sizer for your rifle.

 

[GLB]

I full length size all my brass with about .02 or so on shoulder set back.

 

[rayporter]

i use custom dies but i dont believe everyone has a use for custom dies. in fact i have seen top shooters win with redding dies.

knowing the foolish hate for custom around here i did not think it appropriate to bring it up.

just learn to set your die to properly full length size.

 

[Broz]

Always full size, but only what is needed without over sizing. Necks to -.002" from a loaded round and shoulder back .002" from a firm fitting fired case. That's a good start anyway.

This may be of interest.
How To Adjust and Set Head Space and Shoulder Bump - Long Range Only

Jeff